Robert Parker Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hi Andrew, One thing I forgot to mention was that when I mounted my RCV engine I had to rethink the throttle linkage. I had to put a mini servo right next to the engined as it was too tall to get the linkage within the fuselage plus also watch that the engine / tank setup is right mine is slightly above tank centre but works fine. As for the engine in the breeze keeps em cool, here's mine tank size 50mm x 60mm The original tank size on Fred Dunns model was 7oz, I have a copy which I got from Yesterday's Aero Modelling Plans Service some years ago not sure if they are still around if your interested Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 IF you invert the engine with the lugs on top of the bearers it lifts the engine a bit so avoids the prop striking the ground or helps at least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 I have a nib flair astro hog that I bought a few years ago. As soon as I've finished refurbing the car I bought as a knockaround I'll be building that. My original flair astro hog had a magnum 61 4 stroke which was just right and the lighter they are built the righter they will be. Personally I think the laser 100 is far too heavy for the a/h and though I have a laser 80 I hadn't thought about fitting it in the one I will build, it'll either be a laser 70, saito 62 or an OS 52 surpass with the latter the favourite right now. FWIW laser 100 = 810 grammes (+silencer?) OS 52 surpass 402 grammes + silencer. I'll use a 7 ounce tank on mine which gives long flight times with the 52 but I'll copper my bets by fitting the mounting bearers as far apart as I can get them and use a paxolin plate so I can swap engines around. I'll also lengthen the nose by about 3/4" to help the c of g though I can't recall using noseweight in the last one I had. HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Robert Parker Very nice sir I like it. Good point about the throttle link and the position of the tank. I am now looking at putting a laser 80 into it but then thought about the carb position relative to tank and throttle servo. The carb is high up on the laser so could be an issue with the laser going in mounted vertical hence the question about mounting the Laser horizontally. Correct me if I am wrong (its been a long time since I built anything) optimum position for the tank is center line of the carb yes??? Braddock, VC Yes I sort of came to the conclusion that the laser 100 would be a bit heavy ( had a future build in mind for it) But as the misses said may be santa would bring be the bigger version of the plane the laser 100 was going to go into has made my mind up to go with the 80 Also Jon's note that most people fit the 80. Just going to measure up the car now to ensure it will fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Can't help with the engine selection but, if it helps anyone else contemplating electrification, details of mine are here: http://www.bartonhewsons.uk/home/modelflying/sport/astrohogprojectd.html With a 5s x 3300mah battery pack on board, it weighs in at just 5lb 8oz and has power to spare - I often put a 4s pack in if that's all I have available and it still flies fine. Whether i.c. or electric, how much power you need does depend on how you build it. The original was of course designed in the days when many, if not most, radio flights ended up free flight - hence the banded on wing and tail. I was building from the original plan so I was able to make extensive modifications to get unnecessary weight out of the structure to take advantage of the smoother electric power and more reliably controlled landings - most of the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Guys just noticed the Roberts HOG has rubber bands holding the wing on. Is this the same for the SIG kit or is the wing held on by dowel and screws. Cheers Andy C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonryan Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Thanks for the link, Trevor. Doubt if I'll get around to a hog before the autumn, but that will come in very useful. Did you have any trouble with the prop hitting the ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 No ground clearance problem with the 12.5in prop. I did position the u/c mounting blocks as far forwards as possible because I find that any forward rake on the legs of a torque rod undercarriage can result in very bumpy taxiing on uneven surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 If anyone is mounting a Laser it is best mounted inverted with the tank suitably lowered onto the fuselage floor. This should put the tank in the right place and make for a nice tidy cowling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Putley 1 Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 I'm also an Astro Hogg/Laser fan. Aquired my first Hogg in the lat eighties. Was a Sig kit, powered by an HB61. Flew beautifully, most of the time half throttle or there abouts was all that was needed. Purchased a Flair Hogg in the late ninties. it is presently fitted a new Laser 80. Thr model is a delight to fly. The Laser, a perfect match. Club members commenting on how nice it sounds and how quiet it is...I live in Germany.. Easiest motor to operate I have ever owned (apart from my school days wih my Mills .75!) . Fill the tank, prime it, a backward flip, to bounce of the compresion, and starts first or second go every time. Incidently, I use the factory specifed prop, which is fifteen inches i diameter, and even flying off grass there is plenty of clearence. The model have the original size wheels which are 4" dia. For me The Laser 80 and the Hogg are the perfect combination, with power in reserve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 Robert many thanks for your reply. How did you find the SIG kit quality. I understand that it was quite some time ago. but one would hope as time goes on they would improve the kits quality. I think I have sort of sold my self on the Hog and the Laser 80 just need to go spend the money now. Thanks Again Andy C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Putley 1 Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Hello Andy, It is a long time ago, and I did not build the kit myself. Didn't have the time then. The Astro Hogg is a lovely, slow gentle aircraft. As regards the power plant, you can do no better than fitting a Laser 80. Best of lucky Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 Don't belive it. made up my mind that the astro hog was the one for me now no one in the UK seems to have one in stock AAARRR Anybody know a shop that has stock ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Try Pegasus Models, they're showing 1 in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Putley 1 Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Advertise for one, either built or otherwise. If you had a choice, I would take the Flair If you manage to obtain one, install a good size pilot and fit him up with a nice long white flowing scarf! Very effective! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 Jrman you are a star. I did try them but used thier search function and it came up with nothing. clicked through all the stock on the web page and hay presto. You star. Andy C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Hi Andrew and fellow Hog owners, I found this while looking through my pile of plans earlier. It is an article written by Fred Dunn in April 1958, the designer of the original Astro Hog, where he talks about building and flying the Astro Hog. Oh and incidentally on the original Hog both the wings and the tailplane were banded on, which was an option for the Flair kit. Hope the scans are legible. I've tried to find Yesterday's Aero Modelling plans service seems they are no longer in business. I bought my plans from them years ago as I could not get hold of a Flair kit. Hope the article is of interest. Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 Well I have gone and done it. The Hog is on its way and a laser 80 is on order. Bit annoyed as I was hoping to get the hog today (Friday) but the credit card company decided to flag a fraud alert when Pegasus models tried processing the card. By the time it was sorted they missed the courier so I will have to wait till Monday now. Robert thanks for putting the article up will make interesting reading. Guys slightly off on a tangent here but I starting to gather items to build the Hog one thing I always wonder about is which type of hinge to use. Which is your preference. 1. Rowbart round. 2. flat metal pin. 3. CA type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 I use Robart pin hinges on everything these days (mostly) and have them on my Hog. but suggest you also use their drilling jig. I wrote this guide to hinging some time ago, might help in your decision. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 Andy G Thanks will have a read in a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 I use the CA type alot as they are easy and really strong if used correctly. They are however a right swine if you ever have to remove the surface for repairs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Cousins Posted June 11, 2016 Author Share Posted June 11, 2016 Many thanks Percy I did not want to use rubber bands does not look good. I totally agree with you with the under carriage I would have converted it to a tail dragger if the kit had insisted on a noise wheel. I am also going to mount the laser 80 upside down and cover the opening on top. \should make it look a bit better on the front. Thanks for the hinge advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braddock, VC Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Posted by Percy Verance on 11/06/2016 19:26:19: Hi again Andrew Mounting the Laser certainly won't be an issue as far as bolting it in situ and operating it, but I wouldn't do it that way if you fly from a hard runway. Nose-overs will gradually grind the head away. It ought to be fine on grass though. Perhaps that's a good reason to go trike u/c . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.