Construction & repair tools

[kc]

You don't need many tools for aermodelling but having the right tool is satisfying. One very handy thing is a size 0 ( zero) posidrive screwdriver which fits servo screws etc - difficult to find but Draper make one and it's about 1 pound at Toolstation........Robert Dyas also sell them but .maybe more expensive.

if you are just starting then try to make your screwdrivers of different makes or colours - a set of screwdrivers all the same colour is hopeless because you cannot tell the right one by the handle!

A very handy but more difficult tool to find is a 'pearl catcher ' or 'pick up tool' - they just grip a small screw such as a servo screw enough to start in the pre drilled hole. Magic! Proops sell them and so do Maplin. At the January Alexandra Palace model show another dealer was selling the slightly nicer metal version at about 2 pounds so look around at the tool stands if you are going to Wings & Wheels this weekend

[Nigel R]

also on fleabay **LINK**

[Former Member]

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[Tony Kenny]

Wow! You guys never fail to deliver! There were some real gems in there like building on a board that I can move off the workbench whilst a part dries and work on something else.

I'll read all the posts again and start with some basics.

For a jig, would I get away with a strong board and nailing some bits of wood in place along with clamps?

kinda spent out recently, between the wife, kids and HMRC, I need to hold off a little

[Former Member]

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[John Stainforth]

For jigs, tailor-made balsa braces and templates glued straight on to a glass work top with CA - a la Dave Platt - are quick to rig up, accurate, and easy to remove. Much better than commercially available jigs IMHO.

[kc]

On other threads on the forum there are details of using plasterboard as a building board. This takes pins nicely and also i have shown pictures of some little clips using screws into the plasterboard to hold down wing spars. Cheap enough but you might find builders scrap pieces of about 4ft by 18 inhes that would be just right. Must be absolutely flat whatever building board you use!

[Nigel R]

"For a jig, would I get away with a strong board and nailing some bits of wood in place along with clamps?"

I've seen plans call for a small length of 1/4sq HW to be nailed/pinned/screwed to the board, at each former position, along the outside line of the fuselage. This pretty much works like a jig - providing the fuselage has a flat top (or flat bottom), and you have perfectly square formers.

My board & jig are from 4' x 2' pieces of 18mm MDF, cut down to 18" and 12" width respectively. Underneath I made a torsion box type layout of 4" wide strips, cut from the edge of the MDF boards, which I just screwed to the MDF top piece. The "flatness" can be adjusted if it goes out of true, by redoing the screws. They're heavy, but they can be moved around if needed. I use a piece of plasterboard just laid on top of the board for anything that needs stuff pinning down. The jig is a jig and doesn't need any pins!

Without the strips underneath, a flat board can easily develop warps.

[Stevo]

Yes.. plasterboard!! As said before, keep it flat.

When it starts to look worn, sand it down and use filler for any dents. Then using wall paper paste, paste on some 1000 lining paper over the top and let dry. Hey presto... new top!

[David P Williams]

One of my best buys was a pair (small and large) of "Japanese Philips" screwdrivers made by Tamiya. Lots of the screws on stuff of Eastern origin is not Pozi, and not quite "normal" Philips, and these drivers fit perfectly.

p.s. just checked, they're JIS screwdrivers

Edited By David P Williams on 22/06/2017 12:56:45

[Rob Ashley]

I'n not the only one then ?Plasterboard and MDF ?

Rob

[Rob Ashley]

Plasterboard is easier on the thumbs but you can pin into MDF too.

[Former Member]

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[Tony Kenny]

Hi again,

Just wanted to pop back and say thanks again. I've built up a few essentials and will get others as I need them.

So, what have I bought? (in addition to several bits I already had like square and metal rule)

• Soldering iron with combined hot air gun (was useful to help get foamie back into shape before gluing)
• Metal clamps of different sizes
• Retractable hobby knife, blades and safe blade remover/storage
• Vernier caliper
• Low-tack masking tape

Coming soon

• Plaster board
• pins (using panel pins for now)

One thing that wasn't mentioned and I've found is more important than anything... decent light !! Only got a strip in the garage and I'm working in my own shadow, so some decent bench lighting is on the to-do list.

Thanks again, I'm going to owe a lot of pints to people here!

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Tony Kenny]

We do have a frosted window but that's only good in the mornings for natural light. i tried an LED light but it was too focused, so considering a strip of LEDs from above and one side to avoid shadows. I also noticed just how bad my near vision has become, despite multi-focal contact lenses, so might need to add a magnifier to the kit list!

The kit is the Cloud Models Mosquito, I have started a build blog on here if you'd like to take a look.

As for adhesives, I'm using UHU Por for the foam parts and then Groilla CA gell for the wood. Where I need to bind balsa to foam, I'm using the Por which seems the safest bet to avoid the CA melting the foam.

Also repairing a rather smashed up Flyzone Sensei which has taken priority over the Mosquito so I can get back in the air at the strip.

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[kc]

Two 4ft fluorescent tube lights are handy on the ceiling of a workshop and light coloured walls too. ( beware fluorescent lighting if using rotating equipment - lathes,drills etc can look stationary when they are not )

I also have a couple of Ikea KVART spotlights with flexible stem that clamp on anything ( make sure you get the clamp version ) - 6 pounds

A magnifier on a stand with built in light is very handy - or even the hand held magnifying glass with LED around the underside - Rolson brand about 4 pounds.

Edited By kc on 28/06/2017 15:46:09

[Robert Badger 1]

A chap was selling magnetic building boards and jigs at Weston Park and Cosford LMA. I did grab his business card with his web address, I have mislaid it. Can anybody help?

[Gary Vinten 1]

I would also like the web or phone number

[Stevo]

I replaced all my flourescent strips with LED battens (screwfix etc.) Never looked back!!!

[Gordon Tarling]

Posted by Robert Badger 1 on 30/07/2017 14:51:45:

A chap was selling magnetic building boards and jigs at Weston Park and Cosford LMA. I did grab his business card with his web address, I have mislaid it. Can anybody help?

Think it's this chap. He doesn't seem to have his own website.

[kc]

Stevo - have you read this article about LED lighting perhaps being dangerous to sight? I won't be buying LED's!

[Andy48]

This is "old" research published in 2013. Google it and all you will find on LEDs and blindness is just this one report. In the last 4 years I cannot believe that others have not investigated this.

In any case, KC, the screen you probably looked at to write your post uses LEDs.

[Bob Morris 2]

LEDs are now widely used in all manner of commercial buildings due to far less energy demand and no heat gain to the space. The lack of heat gain reduces the building cooling load thus saving even more energy. As a building services engineer I have to manage designs to ensure the Building Regulations energy targets are met. LEDs are an important factor in meeting energy targets.

Any light source can prove a hazard to the eyes; staring into the old filament bulbs was not recommended at any wattage above 40W.

There is no danger posed by correctly sized LEDs regardless what that particular tabloid may say

Bob