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Construction & repair tools


Tony Kenny
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Thanks again for how supportive everybody has been in this forum, the aeromodelling community is fantastic!

I'm about to embark upon my first kit build (kinds not-first, as I did one back in mid 90-s but never got to fly it).

I'm flying only electric so I'll not be getting anything IC related.

What tools besides the standard tools that most people have, would you include in a new workshop?

What one tool would you say has been your greatest investment?

thank in advance!

Tony

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Assortment of sanding blocks.

Make your own from MDF - cost, very little, value, priceless.

The essential ones - a few 8" x 2" blocks, 80 & 150 grit.

Optionally... one or two 8" x 1" and 8" x 1/2"... A nice long 24" block for edge trueing sheet parts & very lightly running over wings before sheeting... A few different size dowels with paper wrapped around... Several bits of small HW of different widths for making slots.

It's worth making sure all the edges are at 90deg, so you can use the blocks sideways on the bench to get perfect 90deg edges to parts.

There's a good list of basic tools here: **LINK**

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Buy a retractable scalpel ( Swann Morton Retractaway ) instead of the fixed type.  Note that price varies a lot from stand to stand at shows so shop around!

I am going to suggest you read my old thread -Tools You Can Make Yourself for some ideas . Especially useful and easy to make is my 'improved' design for the traditional carpenters bench hook. Make from scrap ply or MDF etc, and use in a vice or Workmate. If you don't have either then make the traditional design to use on any square edge worktop.

You will find the Permagrit 'wedge' block is quite expensive but so useful and it makes so little mess compared to other sanding methods. Disc sander is so messy ( hazardous to health too) I wouldn't bother. Bandsaw is liitle use too- mine is always idle but a power fretsaw is beter in my view. ( like Marmite you either love or hate bandsaws - keep all your fingers buy a power fretsaw which is safer )

Edited By kc on 19/06/2017 11:05:50

Edited By kc on 19/06/2017 11:13:24

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+1 for a Permagrit wedge - medium grade one side, fine on the other. Another +1 for retractable blades, cutting with blunt blades is a nightmare. A David Plane is also invaluable, just make sure your blade's sharp and correctly adjusted. A protractor. Set squares. As many clamps in a variety of sizes as you can afford, you can never have too many. Dividers to transfer measurements from plans to balsa. A couple of straight edges ( 12" & 3 foot ) with fine sandpaper glued on the back, they can't slide about when you're making straight cuts in balsa sheet - try it - you'll become a convert!

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If you are staring with kits then power tools aren't a necessity, though a Dremel type tool is extremely useful, with a set of cutting /sanding discs. Also a good quality razor saw as well as knife and a decent set of needle files will get you started, along with a steel rule. Other useful tools are a set of small metric spanners, small adjustable wrench )up to 13mm) magnetic screwdriver with a set of bits (usually the bits come in a silicon container) and Graupner pins. Last but not least is a decent (not cheap) covering iron.

Again, building a kit means you shouldn't really need to do any heavy sanding, so home made blocks and fine paper should be sufficient, rather than buying expensive Permagrit tools. However if you do buy one you soon will find you have bought several more (ask me how I know !)

When you start building from plans, then investing in more expensive equipment may be necessary. That's when you will find you need a shed.

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Permagrit tools. You won't regret them. Get their sanding blocks and spar slotters as a good starter for 10teeth 2

Was in Aldi last week and they had sets of ratchet clamps (set of 2 minis and 2 medium/large) for only a fiver for the set. So useful I bought a couple of sets.

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photo 3.jpg

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The important thing in setting up a workshop is to set it up for household repairs and DIY - then it quite rightly comes out of the household budget, the few extra tools that are needed for aeromodelling can then be bought! Doing it the other way round dosn't seem to work!

A good solid bench for woodworking with an inset woodworkers vice is a very good start if you have the space. If there is no space for a seperate metalwork bench with engineers vice then bolt a small (3inch?) engineers vice to wood block so that it can bemounted into the woodworkers vice for the few times it's needed. Far better than obstructing the woodworkers bench permanantly. A Workmate or clone is a fair substitute for a bench and has the advantage it can be stood in the middle of a room for certain jobs like assembling models. Can also be brought indoors to enable working on models whatever the weather.

A picture framing saw ( box saw) is very handy for making precise cuts in hardwood & ply. As explained earlier buy it when some household job requires it! Again mounting it on a wood block to go in the vice is a god idea.

But actually aeromodelling needs few tools so don't be put off if you cannot have a proper. dedicated workshop

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I'm another Permagrit fan but, as others have said, they are a significant investment so may be best bought after you have built a couple of models when you might feel better able to choose just what you want.

I'd also support the point about miniature clamps and clips - pinch a few clothes pegs (the wooden ones are best) and salvage the clips from trouser and skirt hangers etc.

The most used tool(?) in my workshop though is masking tape. The secret of a stress-free build is making sure you have the right glues and enough ways to hold the bits together while they dry - which is where the masking tape comes in of course.

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Just remember that most modellers started off with a single edge razor and some home made sanding blocks and built up their workshop over the years. A good scalpel and a razor plane or permagrit block together with a junior hacksaw will see you on your way

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Pound shop, or market stall purchases will also help you with deciding which tools you need. Then you can purchase more expensive versions with more confidence. Don't forget about storage boxes as well. There are plenty of cheap options for compartmented boxes, which makes life easier than rummaging through collections of jam jars !

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I only have an 11 inch permagrit block and some Permagrit swiss files. ply snad paper and odd blocks.

A cheap flat pack desk from HOmebase or similar will make a good workbench.

Also a 48" X 12" melamine covered shelf covered with two layers of cork tiles for wing bulding is great. You can lift it off the bench while the wing is drying to work on the fuselage. I actually have two so I can build both wings at once.

Since you are going electric soldering irons, 12 watt, 25 watt and a 40 Watt for heavy undercarriage wire.

Assorted small cheap pliers.

Of course as you progress you will need more

dscf3683.jpg

And also storage for small parts etc.

dscf3684.jpg

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Hi Tony,

You wont regret building - become frustrated maybe - but it's worth it.laugh

Greatest investments were the CNC machine (way OTT), bandsaw and Dremel (both very useful), but to start you really only need a building board, cradle, scalpel and hacksaw to get going (as others have stated). I am also an advocate of masking tape, clamps and rubber bands to hold parts while glueing. If you can I would also recommend a fus jig such as the one sold by SLEC - they really help build straight.

I prefer the Great Planes Sanding systems as I find the Permagrit a bit too chunky and difficult to get into small areas. Neither system is particularly cheap, but you you don't need these to start - just good sandpaper with home made pads.

You will develop your tool box as you go as you will find some tools work best. Best of luck with the first build.

Rob

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Well I am sick of it! I have many tools that i need to do odd jobs from metal taps to balsa bashing but the most I have used is sharps=knives, saws and other shaving blades following clamps and always seem to be short a clamp or two, T pins, Metal rules, sanders from paddle pop sticks with paper grits glued on up to larger blocks and rounds.

my work is slow and sloppy too, I have a 6 or seven year on off relationship with my models for some reason. I certainly can't blame my tools though.

bbc

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Looking at my workbench, by far the most useful and most used items are:

Glass table top workbench

Swann Morton knives

Cutting mat

Straight edges for cutting

Stacks of masking tape

Many clamps of various sizes, elastic bands

Razor saw and cutting frame

Permagrit blocks (ca 6" and 12" - v v worthwhile

Handdrill

Dremel-type tool and *safety googles* (never use without)

Decent set of Allen keys - long screwdriver type (i.e., with handles) with ball ends are by far the most useful for modeling

Decent set of Philips screwdrivers (German makes seem to be the best)

Other screwdrivers, needle-nosed plyers

CA from Poundstore - 4 x 7g bottles for one pound!

Aliphatic resin

Slow setting epoxy resin

Set squares

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