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Brown Paper on sheet/laminated


Olly P
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Hello All,

I'm after some advice - I am in the process of recovering my F-86 Sabre (separate thread on the go), and the courier supposedly delivered the parcel with sanding sealer and lightweight fibreglass cloth today 'left in shed.' The parcel is not there.

I currently have Wednesday and Friday booked off to try and get everything ready for the PSSA meeting this weekend (mostly the F-86 to be fair). Most of the local model shops are shut wednesday, or don't open until 11, which is a bit late as I'd hoped to have the Poly C onto coat 3 by then.

Sanding sealer I can get from B&Q, just round the corner.

I have seen that other people have used brown paper with some good effect, can this be used on sheeted fuselages or balsa laminated foam wings?

Will PolyC work on brown paper instead of PVA? just thinking about drying times...

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" left in shed" might mean left in the rubbish bin or something equally daft or just thrown over the side gate. Quicker to check everywhere possible and ask the neighbour.

 

Brown paper stuck with dilute PVA dries overnight. The correct brown paper is the slightly glossy one side thin stuff. Tissue stuck with wallpaper paste also works on veneer covered foam wings and probably balsa too.  

Edited By kc on 14/08/2017 19:29:50

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Posted by Stephen Jones on 14/08/2017 19:45:25:

Hi Olly,

everyone i talk to says you must seal the wood 1st . Humm maybe they slap it on which would get the wood wet and cause it to warp.

How ever i have used Poly C with great results on small delicate models and large models .

lbsscaled2.jpg

pauls trainer.jpg

So yes Poly C will do.

Steve

Cheers Steve,

Was this laminate or framework? was there much shrinkage?

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Posted by kc on 14/08/2017 19:27:33:

" left in shed" might mean left in the rubbish bin or something equally daft or just thrown over the side gate. Quicker to check everywhere possible and ask the neighbour.

Brown paper stuck with dilute PVA dries overnight. The correct brown paper is the slightly glossy one side thin stuff. Tissue stuck with wallpaper paste also works on veneer covered foam wings and probably balsa too.

Edited By kc on 14/08/2017 19:29:50

We have 2 bin sheds and a small cupboard out front. He made it to the front door to leave a note.

I have an opinion on what has happened, but won't comment until UK Mail give me an update. Also going to ring RC Worlds and see what they can do.

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The paper covering method is not new. Vic Smeed wrote how to make model boat hulls from the material back in the early 60s.

More recently, it was very common practise to cover Blue Foam wings, with Christmas wrapping paper. particularly on the Wonder Wings, Phoenix 100, as well as many other models, including foam Veneer wings.

I personally do not use Poly "C", my preferred poison being Water Based Varnish. At present I am using Polycell Diamond Hard. I have used Wicks WVP, in the recent past, not quite as hard.

I will confess I do not use paper, although considering the stuff, i use a mixture of light weight Cloths, mainly dependent on what comes out of my Glass storage box.

PVA causes me some problems, in that it is a little like saying I am using steel. As you know (as a fellow engineer, or an ex in my case) this covers a wide range of characteristics and properties, In the past I have used PVA to re-attach peeling Solarfilm, more recently, trying the same trick had a whole panel of film peeling back in flight. As a glue it works well with paper and wood. I know people in the past that used Polycel wall paper paste. although i do not like a lot of water and wood together, if there is any concern about warping.

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I've used PolyC with cloth. That was to a solid Balsa wing - one of Nigel Hawes's "planks"! I applied sanding sealer before hand and did not observe any skrinkage or warping. In fact went text boof style. Details here.

BEB

PS KC is right check everywhere. I recently received a note saying they had left a parcel in the porch - it turned out it was with my next-door neighbour!

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Hi BEB,

I've used poly C with cloth, and the airbrush and acrylics too!

Problem is that the cloth was in the package that has gone missing. My local model shop a) doesn't have any in, b) is currently closed as the owner has had some health issues, so can't stock up there. I'm currently looking for a paddle to help in this particular creek!

I'll have to see what i can source locally - has anyone used fibreglass tissue? I might even try sanding sealer and then plain Poly C followed by paint if i need to...

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I have used tissue and it is not something I like. It does not drape well, also it soaks up resin like there is no tomorrow.

Incidentally, it is a pity that you did not reply to my posting to you. I left behind two slalom canoes and a white water racer. More pertinently I learnt whilst making canoes with the Manchester Canoe club, plus an ex employee of Pyrahana mouldings that any chopped mat material is low in ultimate strength, heavy in relative weight compared to cloths and woven roving, bit on the other hand much stiffer.

On a personal note, i hope that both your personal life and professional life are going well.smiley

I use my airbrushes with Acrylic paints, these days I would not use solvent based paints , just because the cleaning is such a spherical object ache. As for spraying varnish, nah, I put on a thickish finishing coat and cut right abck if so inclined. These days I am less inclined, why bother to that extent, its a model to be flown and it will crash (with me almost in command).

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