push rods threaded each end

[sgwlm]

Posted by Ron Gray on 15/08/2017 15:55:31:

Posted by sgwlm on 15/08/2017 08:12:46:

i use m3 threaded rod with ball links, then heatshrink to cover,

i use this method on my own and customer planes, never had a problem.

use a matching colour heatshrink or a totally different one,

Edited By sgwlm on 15/08/2017 08:15:57

Edited By sgwlm on 15/08/2017 08:17:59

Apart from looking good and locking, what is the point of the heat shrink? Does it make the rod stiffer?

the heatshrink locks the ends, with cyano if required, it also hides the thread, and the heatshrink can be colour matched to suit your plane covering

[Kevin Wilson]

Posted by David Mellor on 15/08/2017 10:20:33:

I've been using z-bend with 1.6mm die wire (the maximum diameter my z-bend pliers can cope with according to the manufacturer) 

The problem is that the wire rods flexed to much.

In this situation I solder thinner wire Z bends to the end of thicker wire push rods. Or glue them to carbon rods.

But then most of my builds are on the smaller side.

[Geoff S]

Posted by Stevo on 15/08/2017 17:53:06:

Get hold of a die and put the thread on the other end

I tried that with a SLEC 2mm push rod. It didn't work because the 2mm thread is a rolled or swaged thread on a rod that is less than 2mm diameter, so trying to cut a 2mm thread on the other end is impossible.

14 gauge bike spokes are 2mm but the thread on the end is also rolled and not 2mm either (it's whatever thread spoke nipples are). That works if the original threaded end is screwed into a nylon clevis cutting its own thread and you could then cut a 2mm thread on the other end. Unfortunately all the spokes I have in stock are stainless (and almost impossible to cut a thread with a die) because that's all I use to build wheels and most of them are butted which means the central part is less than 2mm again. You can't win.

Using SLEC push rods it's much easier to solder a threaded end on to the plain end.

Geoff

[Ron Gray]

+1 for getting the SLEC soldered threaded ends, much better than cutting thread. However, have you tried to solder some of the pushrods supplied with Great Planes 'kits', what a bu**er they are!

[Nigel Dell]

The best way I have found is getting a stock of 2 and 3mm silver steel and make my own not so good if you want to bend it without heat but good other than that.

[Ron Gray]

Good idea, didn't think of that!

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Jon Laughton]

I have used / still use a die to cut my own 2mm & 3mm threads usually without a problem, I also use soldered threaded attachments (both sizes) without any problem but my personal preference now is to use carbon rod with threaded inserts either cut from studding or supplied as such especially for set ups where I choose to fit ball joints at each end.

Sometimes I do cover the carbon rod in heat shrink but mainly for colour co-ordiinaton.

Jon

[chris Bond - Bondaero]

straight

Offset

[chris Bond - Bondaero]

And the pushrods

[Phil 9]

Many thanks Chris

[Rich too]

Chris, are they left and right hand threads? it is useful as it allows adjustment without disconnecting the ball joints. Also, ones I have used a small nut in the centre of the rod to allow the use of a small spanner..

[Adrian Smith 1]

Chris may correct me on this Rich, but the pushrod threads which came with my Bondaero supplied MX2 170E did not have left and right hand threads. In the past I have added a nut of my own to each pushrod.