ARTF - The Stevo way

[Stevo]

Ok forumites, a real feast for you today.

Radio installation, Undercart... Control linkages...

Control linkage

No too suprising really. I changed the horns on the rudder, elevator and ailerons for something a little more posh. I've had experience of using the horns as supplied in very cold weather, and the horns were old, too. They were quite brittle and snapped easily. I substituted some from Rapid RC, my go-to place at the moment.

There was no way that the fuel tubing would go over the clevises. I substituted a tie-wrap instead. The push rods needed to be bent outwards at the exit - as they rubbed against the covering and the friction was very bad.

Radio

Quite tight - not a lot of room!!

Don't forget to install the switch on the opposite side to the exhaust

Also make sure that the receiver sits on the velcro mount, and does not touch the airframe or servos; this will keep the vibration of the Rx to a minimum. Tuck all the wires under the mounting plate, use tie-wraps as appropriate, and don't forget to tape (using surgical tape) the aerials to the side, opposing at 90 degrees of course.

My battery was a LiFe, 6V, so no BEC was necassary. Yes the servos can take 6V, as I checked, but do not take that for granted.

Undercart

As advised earlier, the supplied articles are very soft and can snap. I used a Sieg bender and 4mm Piano wire: -

As you can see from the above, the original was clamped underneath, as a template.

A Proxxon cutter makes short work of slicing them to size.

There you go, the original at the top - the two new ones underneath.

Now for another top tip!

When inserting the UC, the temptation is to cut the covering. No matter how tempting, and just like a Krispy Kreme Donut, do NOT be tempted. The covering will eventually split open and it will look awful. Not to mention fuel seepage.

Heat the end of the leg in a hot air gun, insert the leg, and force down with a wooden stick into the covering. The covering will stretch and adhere into the groove: -

Leave to cool and screw the plates in - again using hex screws. So much easier! Here they are completed: -

Nice 'n' neat. I'll put a blob of sealant down the hole just to make sure.

 

Edited By Stevo on 16/09/2017 17:37:05

[cymaz]

Sigh...

[Stevo]

... and I'm not even scything the Kentish Corn yet..

[kevin b]

Hmm.

Good description, excellent photos and witty comments.

Better tell Alex to watch out for his job !

[sgwlm]

you could use heatshrink over the clevises, i have known tie wraps to 'slide' when they get fuel on them,

i electrified my Super Air, used 4s but about 6000mah for it to balance correct, 

Edited By sgwlm on 16/09/2017 21:48:09

[Stevo]

Good call. In this case, the clevises have a ridge on them front and back so will not slip off..

[Geoff S]

I like the heating of the undercarriage wires to stretch and stick the covering. It's a useful tip for homemade models, too. I also prefer heat shrink over tie-wraps for clevis security.

Rather than sticking the actual antennae wire to the sides of the fuselage with tape I like to stick bits of snake (either inner or outer depending how big the hole is) where I want the wires to go then feed them into the tubes. That way you can remove the receiver either for maintenance or to use in another model without any fiddly unsticking.

Geoff

Edited By Geoff Sleath on 16/09/2017 22:57:55

[Stevo]

Thanks Geoff

I use the surgical tape as it leaves almost no residue, unlike sellotape/insulating tape...

Almost approaching the end here. Wing servos in, no surprises, again used different horns, and a Z bend as well. Note the heatshrink, too.

Now for the assembly. The peg holes in the fuelage needed enlarging as there was no way those wings would fit.

Incidence
This step is NOT necassary for an ARTF - as all the angles are set. However I've included it for curiosity. Don't like that word as I have three cats.

Stand the model on its U/C and prop the tail up, so that the cockpit surround (typically 0 degrees to the thrustline) is almost level. Secure the model so that it doesn't roll off. Don't ask how I know.

Put the digital meter on top and set the zero point. Now, all measurements are relative to the thrust line.

Measure tail...

So the tail is positive to the thrustline about a degree - Using an incidence meter, measure the wing..

Looking at the above the wing is about 0.4 degree positive, and the tail is about 0.5 degree positive to that, which for a model of this type is quite typical. MEASURE AT THE WING ROOT!! Why? When I measured the tips of the wings, the are up at the T.E by 2 degrees - washout

Balance

Essential. Absolutely essential like a good divorce lawyer. Don't leave home/workshop/garage without it !

I have a Multiplex CoG thingy, set the top to 101mm as per the manual. Always a good staring point. Everything must be fitted - spinner, prop, washer, prop nut, pilot, canopy and a small aubergine if necassary.

Here she is: -

Ii used the sticky lead stuff that tyre fitters use. Place the weights around where you are going to stick them until it sits nose down. Hey presto. Now, clean the area using a degreaser; wait for it to dry and press the sticky side against the bulkhead or wherever. Keep it in the balancer.

I'll get the last wing servo next payday, unless someone has a 0254 they don't want.

Not a lot left now, servo directions, throws, engine run and tuning. Oh. And I have to fly it.

Edited By Stevo on 17/09/2017 13:37:43

[Stevo]

Sunday relaxation beckons.

Final sealing..

Seal up any gaps, it shows white here as it's acrylic sealer, but dries transparent. Don't squirt too much on, and use a coffee stirrer to form the slight radius in the corner. Also pay attention to the engine bay; mine had a hole in it where the push rod for the (not used) steerable nose leg was! Wipe off any surplus but don't use thinner, you will wipe off the print

[Phil 9]

are those clevises m3 or m2 size

[Stevo]

All M2, Phil.

[cymaz]

Posted by Stevo on 17/09/2017 13:34:51

I have a Multiplex CoG thingy, set the top to 101mm as per the manual. Always a good staring point. Everything must be fitted - spinner, prop, washer, prop nut, pilot, canopy and a small aubergine if necassary.

Aubergine,! Wow ! I prefer a small steak pasty and a saffron bun. A rock cake if it's very tail heavy.

[Focae]

Posted by Stevo on 17/09/2017 14:58:23:

Sunday relaxation beckons.

Final sealing..

Seal up any gaps, it shows white here as it's acrylic sealer, but dries transparent. Don't squirt too much on, and use a coffee stirrer to form the slight radius in the corner. Also pay attention to the engine bay; mine had a hole in it where the push rod for the (not used) steerable nose leg was! Wipe off any surplus but don't use thinner, you will wipe off the print

What is the trade name for ‘acrylic sealer’.......I’ve not come across it before?

[Mike Etheridge 1]

Interesting that the Super Air has a top hatch and I just wonder whether this is now standard ? The Super Air I was given as a 'damaged repairable' had most of the front end missing so my repair was a bit of a guess and I introduced a hatch under the fuselage to give access to the fuel tank and flight battery. The latter I have wedged between the tank and bulkhead that accepts the wing fixing dowels . The battery is held in place by the hatch that has screw fixings. I completed the repair a few years ago and the plane has not flown,but I was keen to get the plane in the air two weeks ago and last week but was defeated by the weather. I am now well into the refurbishment of a large trainer I was given last week that had severe hanger rash, a cracked and loose tail plane and broken fin and gummed up engine. I think the plane is typical of an early ARTF without any front hatches so that the flight battery and tank are just wedged in place with sponge rubber or foam.However today I have added a hatch under the nose and a flight battery fixing. As for the existing tank which is a type that you cannot dismantle, there is no sign of a 'clunk' so it will need replacing.