Adrian Smith 1 Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 On a new aircraft (60cc equivalent electrification) I fitted an AS150 7mm connector for anti spark purposes. Since the beginning there has been a hefty spark produced with in the connector shroud each of the 3 times I have used it. The wiring is 10AWG with a 12S setup using 2 x 5000 mAh lipos. Now I see a marked build up of carbon like so:- This doesn't seem right and wondered why this is. Any thoughts, thanks? Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 14/04/2018 17:31:58 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 That doesn't look like it's doing its job, Adrian. All of these work using a 2 stage connection. When the tip connects there's a resistor in circuit which slows the charging of the ESC capacitors. Once charged, the plug is pushed home to make the proper connection. Do the instructions suggest a small waiting period to allow the capacitors to charge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 I am using these:- **LINK** I am wondering if the "resistance" , as mentioned in the ad. on the male red connector is faulty. I will check tomorrow. There is noting else in the. instructions about mode of connection or any added capacitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Have you tried connecting the red first then the black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 That doesn't look right Adrian. I have got the same connectors on the build I have going at the moment and when I tested them (8S 4000maH) there was little spark at all. The resistor is surely across the Red positive between the tip and the main body, connecting the red first will negate the resistor completely?? Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackinBlack Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Perhaps when making them up the resistor tipped connector was soldered to the black cable. The resistor tipped bullet connector and the non resistor one look to be interchangeable. Just a thought Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 I will try that, Bert. Thanks. You may be right there, Ian. I will check in the workshop tomorrow as all my kit is off home premises. Thanks for the ideas. Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 14/04/2018 19:59:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 I never thought about that possibility Ian. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackinBlack Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Easy to check, just connect the Red lead first. If it doesn't spark you have the answer. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 Well here we have it. I showed myself to be a numb skull! Looking at the positive connector, it is without resistance. Sorry the piccy is a bit blurred because my auto camera setting decided it wanted to focus on something else entirely! And the negative connection is, you guessed it the one with resistance on it. Question is do I need to re-solder the resistance connector on to the +ve lead or as has been suggested connect to black (- ve) plug last? Am i likely to do any damage doing it that way? I was under the impression the + ve lead should be connected last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 It makes no difference which lead is connected first, except, of course when using anti-spark connectors. You're just completing a circuit which doesn't 'know' where the break was before completion. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 Good to know, Geoff. Thanks for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 You're welcome. I only have one model with big batteries (6S, 4mm bullets) and I noticed a spark when I connected it yesterday. I've only flown it 3 times so far but it occurred to me that I should fit an anti-spark device. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackinBlack Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Nice to know the mystery is solved. As Geoff says it doesn't matter about connecting positive lead first (in this case). Happy Flying Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickw Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Posted by Geoff Sleath on 15/04/2018 16:46:45: You're welcome. I only have one model with big batteries (6S, 4mm bullets) and I noticed a spark when I connected it yesterday. I've only flown it 3 times so far but it occurred to me that I should fit an anti-spark device. Geoff Nah – the spark lets you know the capacitors are still working and makes people around you jump (at least it does on my 10s setups) – got to get some fun out of it . Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Sparks don't worry me, too much. After all I used to check the eht (extra high voltage) on TV cathode ray tubes (7kv and up) by drawing a spark with my screw driver and estimating the voltage by the length. It also generated a lovely ozone smell I'm more concerned about damaging the connector and ultimately the model I've spent a good few hours building. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 Having flown yesterday, I did as suggested here and no spark to report. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barryorbik Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Good job you only did that on the black and white TV's Geoff,as the colour TV CRT's used three guns and had 25kV DC on their final anode. Never risked it myself but apparently there was sufficient energy available there to kill a fully grown bull !! Barry - retired but still alive TV engineer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 The idea of connecting possitve first is that the item it's powering should consume the surge and reduce arcing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Posted by Barryorbik on 17/04/2018 15:57:25: Good job you only did that on the black and white TV's Geoff,as the colour TV CRT's used three guns and had 25kV DC on their final anode. Never risked it myself but apparently there was sufficient energy available there to kill a fully grown bull !! Barry - retired but still alive TV engineer! Yes, it was in the 1950s when I worked in the service department of Murphy Radio in WGC and later at the family TV shop. Although the source impedance was very high for line output generated EHT and I'm told you'd hardly feel it if you took firm hold but I never risked that. An early Murphy TV had a mains transformer generated EHT which really was lethal but by the time I was repairing TVs we only had one customer using one - no-one would touch it I've neither owned nor repaired a TV since 1964. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Posted by bert baker on 17/04/2018 16:04:31: The idea of connecting possitve first is that the item it's powering should consume the surge and reduce arcing I'm sorry but that just isn't the case. You can connect which ever wire you choose first. It makes no difference. On mains ac circuits you should never either fuse or switch both wires. The switch and/or fuse must always go in the line (or live) side ie the red or brown wire if connected correctly. Otherwise, if the fuse or switch in the neutral side fails but the other works, then the whole system is a full mains potential just waiting to give you a serious shock. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Go petrol ⛽️ Making my way to the naughty step Edited By bert baker on 17/04/2018 18:40:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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