Dickw

I used to make a hole through the length of veneered foam wings by dropping a length of heavy gauge piano wire through having first heated the end of the wire to a red glow. Easy to make a guide with a plank of wood and some eyelets screwed in. NOTE - make sure the heated piano wire end can drop out and doesn't stay inside of the wing 😁. Dick

Is it this one? A cheap clone with limited range :- "11. Remote control distance (no interference): 200m" Dick

Actually, taped and glued is quite common on some high performance gliders - 1.6kg and 150mph+ BUT you have to do it properly, and that would preferably be glued to both wing skins. Dick

Fine for me right now! Dick

The screen on my laptop looks different to Martin's screen shot, so just in case it helps, this is where the language setting is on mine in Firefox. Dick

Most of the adverts I can find for that servo give a voltage range of 4.8 - 6v. One said 4.8 - 7.4v. Most HV servos work OK on a 5v supply, but with lower torque as you say. I don’t think the Aeromaster needs high torque, so at that price its worth a try. Dick

For many years I flew a Sebart Pitts Python 50E which is very similar in size and setup to your Beast. During the time I flew it I experimented with all sorts of aileron setups and mixing:- a) all 4 could be moved down like flaps b) all 4 could be moved - top wing ailerons up, bottom wing ailerons down, (a bit like crow braking on a glider) c) all 4 could be moved - top wing ailerons down, bottom wing ailerons up (reverse of b)) d) coupled elevator and flaps e) with and without differential Apart from having a bit of fun experimenting none of the above offered anything worthwhile so I have to say that I flew it 99.9% of the time in a plain setup of "no differential and all 4 ailerons moving just as ailerons with the same throws". I am sure your Beast should be the same. I was rather sad when, after 8 years of regular use, I lost the Pitts to a spar breakage in flight. Dick

There is a problem with GPS if you have fast planes that also turn tightly as it seems that over a certain level of calculated G the GPS system assumes the latest position is an error and substitutes an interpolated position based on the last "good" track. Phil Green referred to this earlier. I did some experiments with GPS on my F5B planes back in 2016/17 and abandoned the idea as the results were useless. F5B fly up and down a 150m course at high speeds with very tight turns at each end of probably around 10G+. The GPS system was rejecting the latest positions during the turns and substituting assumed positions based on the previous track on the straighter bits. After a few more readings confirmed it really was now heading in the opposite direction it jumped to catch up - by which time I was beginning the next turn 🙃. The attached image shows the result. The yellow line in the middle represents the 150m course I was flying, and as you can see the GPS trace shows I appeared to be overshooting by about 300m in both directions. As a bonus the recorded max speeds were in excess of 300Kph 😀. The GPS sensors in use were the SM GPS Logger or a home built one based in this article https://www.rc-thoughts.com/jeti-gps-sensor/ GPS works fine on my slower gliders for GPS Triangle racing where I use the RC Electronics system. Dick

As leccyflyer says, contacting Overlander would be a good idea. Failing that, a set of scales would give you the weight and then you could safely operate it at the good old rule of thumb of 3 watts per gm of weight. Looking at similar types of motor my guess is that it would weigh a bit over 100gms so you could run it at 300 to 400 watts. It appears to be 1600kv so would want to run at about 13,000 to 14,000 rpm on 3s - say an 8x6 or 9x6 prop. No guarantees of course, but that is where I would start in the absence of anything available from Overlander. Dick

Is it this one? Any other information you can give? e.g. can dimensions, weight, any text printed on it? Dick

Having witnessed several identity failures and other confusions in the medical world in the last year, that is almost "not funny" 😀. On the other hand 🤣 Dick

Interesting. Speed seemed normal to me Sunday evening! Dick

IC props usually have thicker blades and are heavier to cope with the power pulses of the IC motor. E props don’t have that problem so are made thinner and lighter for a reason. You can bend a shaft with an e prop (done it!) which is why prop savers were invented, but I only use IC props on suitable motors so have never bent a shaft with one. Dick

R&G in Germany provide a lot of information on their resins, and also sell different hardeners with different speeds for the same resin. Worth a look just for all the information. https://www.r-g.de/en/list/Resins/Epoxy-resin/Epoxy-resin-L---Hardeners--laminating-resin- Dick

No, IC props are fine on electrics and I often use them as they don't break so easily. They are probably just a bit less efficient. You can't use e props on IC though. Dick

With care you could use the BEC in an ESC, but a more sensible option would be to get a separate BEC (voltage regulator). Dick

Great to hear that there is no problem with your flying site, so yes have a go. With gliders it is fairly common to use the motor just to climb to height and then you switch off to glide around. The reduced use of the motor and battery often means these can be smaller and lighter - one way to reduced weight and give you a better glide. Also, a bigger prop and lower kv motor might be better for a glider. On the other hand, if you have a power system that you are familiar with then OK to try it. Dick

That is shocking news, and so sorry to hear it. My best wishes for a speedy recovery. Dick

Land owner's rules. Logic doesn't come into it! Dick

With a glider flying area close by that sounds like a good plan, but there are couple of points you might want to consider. Not all glider flying sites allow gliders with motors, particularly slope soaring sites (hills and cliffs), so do contact and ask the local flyers first. I am sure they will be only too happy to advise you of any restrictions - e.g. my nearest slope soaring site does not allow models with props so you have to remove the prop before flying. 1800kv is not a size it is a relationship between rpm and battery volts, so you can get 1800kv motors in different sizes and weights, and there is no point discussing kv with mentioning prop size and battery volts. However, if you just plan on getting the same motor as your existing plane and using the same battery and prop size then that would probably work OK. If you give us more detail of your existing motor/prop/battery then we might be able to make some more intelligent comments. Dick

Yes, I hope so. Should be approaching 100mph. With the standard E2K powertrain all 4 flyers in a race should have the same performance, so it is all down to the flying. Could be fun if I ever get round to having a go 😀 Dick

The rules for E2K are on this page :- https://pylonracing.co.uk/bmpra-rules/ but the basic motor details are :- 5.3.7.3 Powertrain (a) Batteries – Any lipo battery may be used with a maximum of 4 cells. (b) The only motors permitted will be:- Turnigy SK3-3536-1400kV Aerodrive XP Outrunner, Overlander Thumper 3536/05 all versions, NTM Prop drive series 35-36A 1400kV. I got my power system from Nexus who have a section on E2K approved gear. The Thumper motor is the 1500kv one, but with the ESC limiting to 15,000 rpm kv is not critical. Dick

I had a successfully maiden flight of my Wasp from Cloud Models yesterday. I wanted something cheap, simple, and fast, that I could happily fly in windy weather and the Wasp seemed to be ideal for that with a 39" span veneered foam wing and a basic box fuselage. The airframe is designed to comply with the simple E2K pylon race rules, so I kitted it out with an E2K legal power system - 1500kv motor, 4s 2200 Lipo, 8x8 prop, and a rev limiting (15,000rpm max) ESC. I don't have any plans to race it, but at least I have that option. After a check over by a clubmate (a second pair of eyes is always a good idea with a new model), a range check, and a fail-safe check, another clubmate volunteered to launch it. Conditions were decidedly breezy and turbulent low down so the launch with plenty of power and a bit of 'up' was "interesting", but sanity recovered once I throttled back. The following 4 minute flight with the odd loop and roll thrown in showed it had promise of being a good model. The throws and trim were about right, but I need to move the CG forward a bit before the next flight and add a fair bit of expo to cope with the large speed range - lots of throw for slowish aerobatics or fast tight pylon turns, but at full throttle it is very twitchy straight and level. Dick

The Hitec 85 and 125 that you mentioned earlier are actually quite large servos for this application, and I would have thought something a bit smaller would be more than adequate - something like this https://www.4-max.co.uk/servo-emax-ES09MA.html It seems smaller than your existing cutouts, metal geared, and a very good price. As others have said, you don't need really high power servos for this model. Having said that, there is a build of this model on RC Groups where he also resorted to enlarging the wing cutouts to fit servos. He is less than complementary about the model in general, but that may be just him. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2198527-DG-808S-FlyFly-4metre-Composite-Balsa-Glider-Rating-5-10 Dick

Given Martin's comments, something like this might be suitable - small and not too expensive. https://www.flightech.co.uk/product/x08h-plus-premium-f5j-servo/ In very tight installations I have servos of this size with the lugs cut off, wrapped in tape and epoxied to the wing skin (cut tape and unwrap to remove!). With the space you have I don't think you need to go to those extremes 😀 Dick