Glen's Models 35% Extra 330 electrification

[Adrian Smith 1]

Yes, Rich I like it too. The tightness of the CF tailplane spar in the wings is a concern for me though and has set me thinking that I ought to check the main wings for fit too as they are the ones that are going to be coming off and on frequently. I may have to order a new CF rear spar with 1mm less external diameter (if I can find one) to make it fit nicely. I am going to check the main wings later today and report back.

I had this issue with my Capiche 140 from Weston UK and found it a bit unsatisfactory to have to tap the wings gently along the spar when rigging at the field.

[Rich too]

Mmmm, that’s not good. I don’t think I’ve ever had an issue like that on any model. Have you contacted Glen ?

[Ron Gray]

I’ve had the same issue in a couple of models, it was a major effort to put the wings on, so I used wet n dry on the cf tube, with copious amounts of water (carbon dust ). Finally, once I got a good fit, I then polished the tube with furniture polish.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Rich,I haven't contacted Glen yet. I tend to take the view if I can solve it I will try, but if it costs money then may be I should speak to him, but I am not sure he can do much.

Very interesting Ron. Sounds like a plan should I have to go that route.

[Ron Gray]

Don’t forget the polish, not only does it help the tube slide in and out it also stops your hands getting covered in the black stuff!

[Adrian Smith 1]

Gotcha, Ron well noted.

First some good news. The main wing spar fits tolerably in the airframe and wing.

[Adrian Smith 1]

I took a couple of measurements on the tailplane spar.

The spar has a OD of 19.14mm.

Whereas the wing tube housing is 19.36mm. Not enough room apparently.

I had a look at the tube itself and the wall is quite thin so I am not sure sanding it will weaken the integrity. Anyway I will have a go with wet and dry. I sanded it for 20 odd minutes and while it make the fitting slightly easier it was still far too tight. I will have to pick up some furniture polish to see if that makes any difference.

[Adrian Smith 1]

First I cut the film to accommodate the leads.

On with the wings.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Now to make up a couple of extension leads.

4mm of insulation is removed.

Crimping done.

Then on with the sleeve.

Made up the other end and test fitted to the RX.

Now for the other one ........

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 06/10/2019 16:00:19

[cymaz]

Don’t forget the safety clips !!!

The wing tube on my Cap will only go in one way. Though it will slide all the way through, strange that.

Edited By cymaz on 06/10/2019 17:23:55

[Adrian Smith 1]

Sure thing, Cymaz 🤦‍♂️

[Adrian Smith 1]

Clips now on both extension leads!

I used a thin C/F rod to thread the leads through the fuselage.

All taped in the other end.

[Adrian Smith 1]

As I was done that end I thought I would fit the tail wheel assembly. The leg required drilling out with two holes.

I measured out a centre line for positioning.

I made sue the wheel's metal leg was in line with the rudder hinge line.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Finally, the spring bracket position was marked.

I attached the bracket, but left the tail wheel springs off until I have put the rudder servo in and the cables are fitted.

[Adrian Smith 1]

All the rudder fixings pulled out and I am using Secraft tensioners that came off a previous model.

I test fitted onto the rudder horns using a washer on the "ball side" to keep the link in place in case of failure.

Next I threaded the rudder wire through the tensioner and secured temporarily.

 

 

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 08/10/2019 16:38:25

[Adrian Smith 1]

Now there is no obvious place to thread the wire through the fuselage and try as I might I couldn't find any cut hole or place so in the end I had to drill out a small angle hole in the frame.

I used tape to mark it at 7 cms up from the trim joining line.

I used the C/F rod to thread through the fuselage.

I intend to fit the wire "crossover style in the fuselage, but for the moment I have taped it along the fuselage.

[Adrian Smith 1]

So both wires threaded through.

I intend doing all the rudder adjustment from the rudder end and not the servo end. This leads me on to the next problem.

The preinstalled servo spars and their location leads me to conclude that it has wasted some space given the internal area is not that great. I am thinking of removing the spars and instead installing a false ply floor to give me more space and just using an added piece of 1/4" ply with a cut out to house the rudder servo and position the servo nearer the rear of the plate, given I will not be adjusting the wires from there. This will give me more space to position the internal electrics/lipos etc. I will have to give it some more thought.

[Adrian Smith 1]

In the meantime I am going to use these Overlander Lipos.

These will be wire up in series in pairs. I am working on the basis that I use two 5000 mAh lipos in series for my 60cc jobs very successfully, so two 10000 mAh lipos in series should be ok with luck. For the technically minded here is the data sheet :-

**LINK**

Given that in theory (and I know it's only theoretical) the discharge rate is 20C constant with 35C bursts possible running 200 amps minimum through the system should be fine using the HobbyWing OPTO ESC I have.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Ok so a bit more work. I made a false floor using 1/8th ply and screwed into place on the frame thereby giving me the option of removing it if I have to move things around. The other decision made was to leave the rudder servo spars in place as they are integrated into the airframe. Once again I will see how the eventual CoG balancing goes before I make a final decision.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Now even after using wet and dry paper until I got bored on the tailplane C/F, tube I was still not happy with it. So in the end I ordered a 19mm O/D C/F tube from Amazon for a little over a tenner.

Nice and shiny too and I am glad to report it measures 19.1 mm and is a better fit all round. I cut it to length and installed it in the tail.

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 11/10/2019 16:52:25

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 11/10/2019 17:02:14

[Adrian Smith 1]

Back to the front of the aircraft, I decided to re-check the cowl and prop driver distance before re-fitting the motor permanently.

Seems ok so I used some NordLock washers with blue thread locker for the nuts within the motor box.

[Adrian Smith 1]

Next I decided to fit the HobbyWing OPTO ESC ready for attaching. I used 18 mm button head bolts (none supplied)

Not much space for working, but at least there is room for me to attach the programming box lead.

[Adrian Smith 1]

I test fitted the motor leads to the ESC and confirmed they are a tight fit.

I will probably work on fitting the rest of servos next.

[cymaz]

Nice and tidy work

[Rich too]

good news on the cf tubing