TN Hurricane

[Hugh Coleman]

Regarding Servos,

I have used Hitech 311's on most of my stuff, and 322's when they are available. 

I purchased a retract servo for this build, as I didn't think that there was realy enough room for a standard servo between the wing and where I have mounted the fuel tank (as low as I can get it and still too high for my OS70FL (Air Bleed Carbie running inverted)).

The retract servo was not cheap, about AU$60 I seem to remember, but I have seen forced belly landings due to burnt out retract servos so I don't want to skinp there.

 

I was intending to use the Spectrum Servos that came in the box with my DX7, but I actually think they are lesser quality than the Hitech 311's... and that's saying something.

 

Cheers,

 

Hugh

[Bill R]

Hello Timbo,

Thanks for the advice re sTowerPro servo's. Yes they are cheap and some report errors in centreing. Problem is the free plan states micro servos but the dimensions from the plan indicate (probably) a mini servo. The distance between the rib skin to skin is 30mm at rib W9. If you put the 6mm mounting square obechi through the holes in the rib you are left with 20mm below the mounting at the narrowest part to fit a servo. The other plan book states micro servo's but I cannot find a mini servo with a maximum depth of less than 30 mm. The plan does not give a side view of the mounting so I am working blind with this one. Futaba servo's I have looked at are around £25 each but seem to be too deep to fit.

I have looked at mounting a mini servo sideways on a hatch for access but think this would detract from the appearance.

Any advice would be welcome.

 

regards,

Bill R.

[Toni Reynaud]

Hello All,

As a different approach to the aileron servo problem, if it's not too late, you could create a different servo mounting which puts the servo on its side with just the arm poking down through the undersurface. Using this method, a very large servo can be fitted. It also has the advantage of a tidier wing underside.  The following pictures show two views of a similar installation, albeit on a foam wing.

 

Servo on its side just under the wing surface.

 

 

 Showing the servo arm poking above/through the wing underside.

 

Just my two penn'orth.

Toni

 

[Tim Mackey]

Yep, think thats how I would do it.

[Doug Ireland]

I'm getting to the point in my Hurricane build where I'm thinking about balancing the model. I know some people say to balance it inverted but I prefer to do it right way up. My question is (never having owned a model with disappearing wheels),  gear up or gear down?

[Tim Mackey]

This depends on the amount of rake ( and direction ) on the model. If the gear retracts "backwards" then the cog is shifting to the rear, so probably best to balance her with gear in this position - when gear is down, she will go slightly ose heavy, but this is obviously preferable to the opposite! Of course, the opposite is also true if the gear rakes forward on retraction

Edited By Timbo - Administrator on 28/12/2009 12:42:46

[Tim Mackey]

Incidentally, I like to fix a small "hard point" somewhere around the top decking balance point, and balance the model using a length of fishing line or similar which then shows bothe pitch and lateral balance together.

[Doug Ireland]

With the gear down, the centre-line of the wheel hub is slightly forward of the wing L/E. When retracted the hub is in line with the main spar.

[Doug Ireland]

I think I may have overdone it a bit!

 

I bought a RCV 90SP and after hanging it on the front of the Hurricane I think the 15 x 12 three-blader might be struggling for ground clearance. Looks nice though!

[gadyrdal]

I have had about 60 flights now, 10 with the .61 twostroke Evolution, and 50 with an ASP .61 fourstroke. The Hurricane really loved the fourstroke Much more gentle on takeoff, and beautiful sound in the air.

I am now fitting splitflaps to make her easier to land. I just cut out the area in the wing, and replace the 2mm balsaskin with 2mm 5-layer plywood,and hinge it in the wing.

I will make the servos and links inside the wing for better scale looks.

Here is a picture of her with the two-stroke engine...

And the build thread in Norwegian, with pictures...:

http://www.trmfk.no/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

[SA Allan]

gadyrdal did the split flaps make a big difference to the landing speed ?

 

I'm thinking of building a this one using a Hyperion Z4025 motor and 6 cell battery , is it possible to get the battery all the way against the firewall ? . I'm a bit concerned about weight as it only has a wing area of a little less than 600 square inches . What's  your models all up weight ?

 

I appologise for asking so many questions

[gadyrdal]

Hi Allan.

 

I have not flown it yet after making the flaps. Still snow here in norway.

I think it will be no problem with electric power. The battery can stay were the tank is,

just behind the firewall. My hurricane weights 3,8 kilos.

The original drawings is ment for brushless system. You may have to add some lead in the nose, but still you will be under 4 kilos of weight.

 

Go for it!

[Hugh Coleman]

I am sure I read somewhere that the cut outs for the rear spar in W8 (on the special issue free plan) are in the wrong place... But did I remember to check before applying the CA?  Nup.  I had to make a second pair after prysing everthing apart again.

 

Never mind... A lesson for all.  Measure twice, os as many times as required and cut once.

 

Cheers,

 

Hugh

[Toni Reynaud]

Hello all,

I've recently finished my foam build of this plan -

http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=34350

It weighs in at 4 1/2 lb (including 8 ozs of lead to get the balance point right) and flies really nicely on half throttle with a 400W electric system - full power gives a nice big loop and spirited takeoffs. However, a couple of the onlookers said that it looks as if it is flying a bit tail down, suggesting that it is nose heavy. has anyone tried moving the balance point any further rearward from the 90mm point suggested on the plan?

[christopher raine]

Hello all,

Would like to know if anyone is using oleo's with their retracts and which one's as I am very confused as to which retracts and oleo's I should use. The problem being is that in the RCME special it says one thing and when you speak to someone in the model shop they tell you different pls help.

Regards chris

[Bucksboy]

Dear All,

Here's a photo of my Hurricane that is nearing completion, it's still got exhausts and small  bits to go on.  The tail is now painted but while he sun was out I couldn't resist a snap.

 

I bought the Sky RC air retract system for it, this cost £85 for the whole system including two sprung oleo's.  The engine is a SC 61 fourstroke, weather permitting and a good look over irst, I'll try and fly her this Sunday.  It's taken me over a year to finish, several other models have got in the way.  The main delay was over the retract system.  Originally I installed the mechanical system but this it never operated smoothly.  This was when it only had the top skin on too, I knew to finish the wing off would seal it all up forever.  So, it was put on hold and eventually I bought the Sky RC set, this wasn't fault free either.  One of the pistons was faulty but was replaced straight away by Moor Models.

It's got a lump of lead in the nose to balance it all out.  I'll let you know how or if it flies!

 

Bucks

[Tim Mackey]

looks good 

[Hugh Coleman]

Cool looking Hurri Bucks.

 

My build has stalled too while I try to work out the Retracts.  I have a servo for each side situated in the front of the wing outboard of each retract.  One side works a treat, but the other side keeps jamming form some reason.

 

So the wing is sitting on a shelf half built.

 

I may have to look into the system you have used.

 

I have an ASP 61 FS committed to this model... Basically the same engine as you.  How much lead did you need?

 

Hugh

[Bucksboy]

Hugh,

I don't know how much it all weighed, the whole plane comes in at 7lbs 2 oz.  (1785g)  I've taken a photo of the engine, the lead is rolled up and hammered flat, it's then glued on using silicone sealant.  Then the whole lot is bolted together and then screwed to the motor mount.  Despite my best efforts I had to add more which is why there is a second lot bolted to the firewall.

The second photo is of the air botthe for the retracts, I wanted it all mounted on the wing so that none of the connections are touched when the wing comes off.

The note shows that the wing in total weighs 3lb 3oz.

I'll get anther flyer to look over it tomorrow first but if all goes well it awaits a flight tomorrow!

Bucks

[Bucksboy]

Sorry,

 I meant to include a side view too.  She's sporting a new spinner and black painted prop, the tail colours have been painted and the exhausts are on.

The letters are a bit too big and bold but I cut them out myself, it shows Ft Lt Nicholsons plane from August 1940, he won the VC in it.  He was shot up and about to bale out when he climbed back in to shoot his attacker down.  He suffered serious burns and wounds, even being shot at by the Home Guard whilst parachuting down to earth!

 

Bucks

[Hugh Coleman]

That's an awful lot of lead!

But the all up weight does not seem excessive. 

What did you use for covering on the Fuselage and the Tail surfaces?

 

Nice set up for the retracts.

 

Hugh

[Bill Frost]

Hello All,

 

Its good to see that people are still quietly progressing (as am I) at their own rates.

I'm approaching the covering stage, so would also be very interested to learn more generally what methods people have used for their covering, and whether they'd do it again! 

 

Regards,

 

Bill 

[Bucksboy]

Well, she flew but only just!  She staggered into the air, did a half turn back to the strip and dropped into the brambles.  Luckily damage was limited to the leading edges getting srapes and lumps in it.  It wouldn't/couldn't get the airspeed to fly.  It was an ASP 61 turning a 13 x 6 prop, total weight was 7lb 2oz.

The exhaust was bolted on before she flew by the way. 

Will the engine turn a bigger prop or do I re engine up to an 80?  The would require a new cowl as it's a but longer and the gap twixt cowl and prop would be noticeable.

Oh well she's in a better state than I thought after seeing her go in so work will continue!

By the way she's covered in Pro film for the fuselage and tissue and water based varnish for the wings.  Then sprayed from tins and varnished over the top.  I like the tissue as it gives a nice sandable finish.

 

Bucks

[Tim Morton]

How does one make a removable / tip over break free aerial?  What is it made from and how do you mount it?   

 

thanks

tim

 

 

[Hugh Coleman]

That should have flown OK.  Is the Engine well run in?  It might not be running at full revs yet.

That is the exact same power set up that I am using (And others have used as well).  Hope mine flies OK!!!

 

Cheers,

 

Hugh