TN Hurricane

[gadyrdal]

Well guys... I had about 50 flights with the ASP 61 fourstroke, using a 12X8 prop.

You have to use the 8 pitch, or else you will not get enough speed for proper flying.

I tried the 6-pitch once, and barely got back to the strip and landed.

DO NOT MAIDEN WITH ONLY 6-PITCH ON A FOURSTROKE ENGINE!

 

 

[Bucksboy]

Too late gadyrdal,

I had Monday afternoon off and bought a new engine mount for a spare ASP 80 fourstroke that was destined for somewhere else.  It's already bolted in and work on the cowl has commenced.  I wish I'd tried it with the 8 pitch prop now.  Ill let you know how it flies but it wont be for a week or two, work keeps getting in the way!

Thanks for the advice

[tristan 1]

hi guys, what do you all think of fitting a laser 70 4 stroke into this model.

Getting close to making a final decision and its this or an sc 65 4 stroke, but i thinkl the laser would make a much better noise and should be more than enough power without ripping the wings off!!

 

Thanks for any advice, cheers

 oh and the laser would have a 12x8 prop

[Bill R]

Hello Guys,

Got a very nice second hand OS70 4 stroke at the nats and just finished fitting it and roughing out  the cowl. it fits like a glove with 2mm clearance between prop and cowl. I have covered the ailerons, elevator and rudder with white solartex and it looks really good. The covering is nice and tight and shows the spars up very nicely. I am not happy with the tail wheel fitting as it feels a little loose in the fuselage so will be rethinking that one. Any iteas / pics would be welcomed here.

The tissue and varnish idea for the wings and front fuselage sounds good but I was thinking of just sanding and sealing the balsa, putting panel lines on with a pencil and painting over then sealing off with a matt varnish or dope coats with a final rub over with very fine sandpaper to give that "worn" look.

I am still not happy with the mechanical retracts. I have managed to fit the EZ mechanical retracts and get them working correctly but really wanted some oleo legs to offset any hard landings. I cannot locate any oleo's around the 4" length the model requires. The air retracts look good and sound a better idea than the mech ones.

 I have the topside of the wings covered but with the retract problems dont want to cover the underside yet.

I thought I might have completed by Easter but I think I meant Easter 2011. Other build projects and flying time have got in the way. Dark nights and quality build time is approaching fast. Roll on winter or have we not had summer yet?

 

Regards,

Bill R.

 

[Hugh Coleman]

Tristan,  If you can afford it, definitely go for the laser over the SC.

 

Cheers,

 

Hugh

[Bucksboy]

Hi all, Well I tried again and it all went badly, my fault again that it did so. I successfully re engined the plane with an Asp 80 4stroke at went flying on Saturday. The engine was started and tuned and she was lined up, all controls were double checked but then she she nosed over. After a re start I lined her up again and off she went. She started a slow drift to the left which I corrected but she failed to respond! She cartwheeled into the long grass and ripped out the fire wall and wing. I think the first failed launch affected the aileron servo connection and I never checked ahead of the second launch. So two lessons, use the connectors to ensure the lead doesn't come apart and check the controls on all flights! Luckily the breaks in the wood were all clean and easy to repair. Epoxy has been used on all joints and she looks good, it was a far easier and quicker repair than I had thought on first seeing her in bits. Two flights, no landings yet, third time lucky I hope! Bucks

[tristan 1]

thanks Hugh,

offering up the laser it comes in 11mm past the nose ring on the plans, would this be a problem to the side thrust or the overall look of the plane? Hopefully it wouldn't be noticed too much, problem being that the carb and exhaust both exit at the rear of the motor.

Preparing the wing sections to be epoxied together so that'll be the usual nerve racking few hours checking nothing has moved!!

Project moving on well whilst i can grab a few hours after work, 

Cheers all

[Hugh Coleman]

Tristan,

 

can you move the fie wall back?

 

The alternative is to make your Hurri a Mark II and have a slighlty longer nose... The 11mm is not going to make that much difference to the outline.

 

Cheers,

 

Hugh

[tristan 1]

firewall already in and fixed sadly although the possibility of  'getting away with it' is appealling, calling it the mkll. Cheers Hugh,

 About to start flexing the cash card, and wondering how to cover/finish the model.

 

i would like to spray a coating on once covered but dont have a spray gun or any assoicated bits n bobs. I was wondering whether spray cans are the way forward and how much would i need?

Also what would make a good 'base' layer for the spray to adhere to? and in what colour, along with any sealants or varnishs needed to seal her up afterwards.

 

Sorry for the many questions but would value your opinions before biting the bullet

 

Thanks all

[tristan 1]

Sorry, dont quite know why the thumbs up came out that big, but hey, you guys deserve it!!

[Tim Morton]

Gents

 

Appreciate some advice on retracts - the Unitracts site has a version for the Hurricane / Spitfire etc. but rated at only 6.0 - 6.5 lbs

 

I'm plan to use a 90FS (probably the RCV) and I'd think the AUW will be somewhere round 9-10lbs,

 

Unitracts don't think this will be a problem however I'd rather not find out that it is once installed.

 

I don't like the air retracts much (a little too fiddly) so I'm looking for advice - Unitracts or something else and if "something else" what / where etc.

 

Many thanks

 

Tim 

[Bryan Witon]

Hi Tim,

 

I used the Robart mechanical retracts found them to be great,

Have had about 100 flights now of grass strip and no problems at all.

 

                           Cheers Bryan

[Tim Morton]

Thanks Bryan - sounds promising - I'll have a closer look at them

cheers

 

Tim

[Tim Morton]

Have finally got round to getting all the pieces together - Unitracts Oleo's with E-Flight retracts.  But there's not much room to fit the wheels and oleos in!

 

In Metric (I know, I know... I don't usually work in this but it's easier since all the dimensions are in mm).

The wheel bay on the plan is +/- 35mm, the oleo is 13mm & the wheel is 30mm - so there's a bust!  The wheels will stick out unless I take more of the wing for the wheel well.  Anyone else had this problem and how did they solve it? 

Edited By Tim Morton on 08/12/2010 18:21:49

[CARBON_ROD]

I was looking at your build photos ,you really do make it look so simple ,after looking at all the pics i thought blimey i could go up to my work shop and knock one of these out in a couple of days ,UH!not really but you do make it look easy ,I've all most convinced my self to go for it along with the 2 projects on the go at the moment ,Being one of the old school i think it would be ic any way cheers i will be occupied for ages now

Edited By taildragger on 31/03/2011 18:20:48

[Toni Reynaud]

Anyone else had this problem and how did they solve it?

Used lightweight foam tyred wheels at 23mm thick. Only had about 10 landings so far, and my plane is a bit lighter than most, so I can't comment on possible wear problems.

http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=34350&p=2

[Hugh Coleman]

It's the wing that slows you down. The Fuselage goes together in a couple of days.

 

I am onto my second attempt on the wing. Good thing I like building wings!

 

Cheers,

 

Hugh

[Bill R]

Hi Guys,

Still building my hurricane in fits and starts and having a bit of a problem with the wing fairings. I understand that the front section infill is made up of shaped 12mm balsa sitting oin top of the 0.8 mm ply and the 12mm shaped bits are then covered with 1.5mm soft balsa rolled over the top. That is the easy bit. The rear section has no detail ob the drawing and the notes also dont mention much at all about it. The 3mm liteply TE fairings glue onto the TE, one on the fuz and the outer bit on the wing. Now to the problem.

Is the aft fairing made out of 3mm liteply or do you roll anothe bit of 1.5mm balsa and blend it into the TE ply fairings?

Tried making it out of liteply and it leaves a hole (looking forward) plus it does not match up with the wing TE as it is too high and the profile is not right.

I had a look at the pictures but still cannot work it out [must be my age!!]

Any help / pictures of your build / how you did it would be much appreciated.

 

Best regards

 

Bill Raine

[Craig Ward]

I've recently started the Hurricane and have replaced the ply formers aft of the cockpit with balsa formers. I am planning on flaps as well. This build is to build up my courage to attack the BT Hurricane I have plans and cowling for.

[Bernie]

Tony, Is there a building blog for the hurri?as i do love the building part of modeling .but as i.m up the ladder age wise 68 i need to make life a tab easy for my self .cheers Bernie.

[Bernie]

Sorry ! bit off topic but is there a build blog for the hurri?

[Bill Frost]

I realize that I never posted a final update on my build of it (it was a really long project, on and off over several years!).

Towards the end of my build, my earlier concerns about its weight resurfaced - sure enough, it needed a lot of nose weight added (I'd got the 5cell flight battery as far forward as possible, as well as a separate receiver battery and separate Retracts/lights battery also).

It finally had its first flight at the end of last November - see photos below [I'll post them separately from this, once I've found them again], at least one of which does show that the retracts work! Interestingly, despite its weight, it didn't appear to have any really nasty tip-stall tendencies.

At the time of writing this, its since been waiting for the right conditions to fly again, with working landing lights and a 3 blade prop that's nearer to scale. Then if that's successful I'll treat it to a spinner also!

Overall, I'm really pleased with it, although I fully recognize that my version is only a simple version (no rivets or panel-lines, for example). Now, if only I could actually fly it myself - my thanks to my son Gordon for doing the honours!

Bill

[Bill Frost]

Right, here should be some photos:-

Bill

[Allan Bennett]

I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I've just started building the TN 62" Hurricane and have a couple of questions:

I've skimmed through this thread and have seen a few references to extra ballast needed in the nose. I'm building an electric version, so there's about a 3cm gap between the front of the firewall and the rear of the motor. In some other models I've installed the battery box through the firewall and then mounted the motor to the front of the battery box, so that I can get the batteries that much further forward and reduce, or eliminate, the need for ballast.

So, any ideas how much ballast was actually needed for your electric-powered versions, please? If it's just a little, I might not bother with the major surgery on the firewall.

I'm also planning to install split flaps, like the real thing. I've seen one reference to flaps in this thread; any feedback on how they perform? One photo I've seen of the full-size shows flaps down at what looks like about 90 degrees for landing.

[Chris Walby]

Hi, no experience of this Huri, but if it was me then do the mod now to get everything forwards. I have seen photo's of the full size and they have huge chunks of lead attached to the Merlin!

Even hear modellers extending the nose a little to get the weight forwards!

And yes you are right about the full size deploying flaps at 90 degrees, I think there is a nice photo of the Shuttleworth aircraft landing on grass with the flaps in this position. I assume it makes the aircraft have a lot of drag which would be useful on a short runway.

Good luck with the build and please keep us posted on progress.