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Gary's Brian Taylor P-47 build


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Haha he wasn't too impressed either Danny but went on to have a lovely aircraft so I suppose was grateful.....eventually.

Don't get too caught up in the incidence bits Nick, generally if you are accurately following the plan and it looks right when it's on, it's close enough. Measuring incidence is something that seems much harder to do than it actually is and I've only ever had to do minor adjustments that are probably unnoticeable with the naked eye. If it looks right....

Gary

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Gary,

I just received my BT P-47 short kit today. This will be my winter project here in the states. I have a NGH35gt I hope to use and was wondering if you have installed the Evo26gt yet in yours. I was wonder how it is going to work out because the NGH37gt is a very simular engine in design. I also have a EME-35 engine but it is over 1" to long. I guess I could move the firewall back an inch but it looks like the NGH35gt will be an easier install

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Hi James,

Good choice going for the BT P-47, great and proven design.

I have fitted my engine and it fits in fine. My silencer required the lower section of the firewall to be cut but definitely no issues with size of the engine. If anything, I would like to have extended the shaft a bit to allow a scale engine to go in front of the carb but I'll just have to fit it around.

It's a fairly straight forward build with more complicated areas but nothing too tasking. Keep us up to date with your progress.

Gary

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Thanks for the feed back on your Evo26gt fit. It looks like the NHG35gt will be a better choice then the EME-35 so I will go that way. Do you have any pics of your build. I have been looking at Treavor's build and I am no way as good a builder as he is. I am a little worried about the way the ailerons and flaps are built. Any and all help is greatly appriciated.

I plan to getting started next month once I am finished with a 1/4 scale cub build.

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James I too was a little confused at first regards the flaps and ailerons, but Garry pointed me in the right direction earlier in this build thread and actually once I sorted the simple jig they came together very nicely. The leading edges use substantial amounts of balsa of which much is shaved away. A few tips from my experience of the build so far: Be sure to check your laser cut parts against the plan. In my Sarik pack there were a just few parts that didn't match or were missing. Not enough to be a nuisance but as every part is clearly drawn it is builds confidence to cross reference. The flap hinging with Robart pin hinges works great but the scale type aileron hinges shown, apart from being fiddly to make are a devil to accurately fit. I had to rip mine out ultimately after hours of frustrating fettling and resorted to Robart pin hinges which seem to maintain the same rotational geometry when placed carefully. The fuselage is a joy to build, with only a few tricky areas around the rear of the cockpit and of course the multiple compound curves of the razorback need a good eye when sanding/shaping. I have used Electron retracts. A lovely product at a price but they don't fit the bearers as per the plan. You will see my notes on them earlier in the thread.

With a generous application of epoxy and micro balloons I have finally joined the wings and added a 10cms wide woven glass bandage. Today was a big one in that it was the first time I trial fitted the wing to the fuselage. Happily the fit was near perfect and holes have been marked out for the locating dowels. I am just waiting on some T brackets for the wing fixing bolts and once these have been installed I can get on and assemble/fix the belly pan. That just leaves the wing fillets and then all the construction will be complete. It will be a good milestone as I will be able to glass cloth the fuselage and then all parts will be ready for a final prep and then primer.dc334c71-7b60-4e89-99b3-cbcd213d78d5.jpeg

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Hi Jim,

There should be photos through the thread already but if you want a photo of anything specifically then let me know.

Great progress nick and a great feeling when the wing is finally fitted and it really feels like you are on the home straight. Then you glass it and start the detailing.......not as near completion as you think!!

Gary

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Topside of wing showing fitted locating dowels and rear bolt guides. Two access hatches for door Servos and wiring exit point. Central bay for Sequencer, operating main legs, gear doors and tail retract servo. The small lipo adjacent only powers the main legs whilst gear doors and tailwheel retract servo are all powered from the receiver circuit. That adds up to 6 connections each time the wing is mounted, so ideally I need some form of block to hold all the males and all the females as a single unit each that can be pushed together.8eca93f5-1789-4c3d-8161-25af8724ce7e.jpeg

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I reduced the wing/fuselage connections by fitting one receiver in the wing and a second one in the fuselage. If you don’t want to use two receivers, it may still be worth considering fitting the Rx in the wing but in this case it might not make too much difference.

Trevor

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Nick I like the planking idea for the belly pan. It seems like it my be easier to get the shape right using that method.

I have to finish a 1/4 scale Cub build I am working on that i hope to be done with this month then I am starting this P-47 build. I have already ordered everything I need to get started with it.

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Yes the belly pan worked out well and sanded easily to a good finish. I wish I had been more patient and used more narrow planks on the rear of the fuselage as it has been hard to get a fully rounded shape without sanding too much of the thickness. I will try to take some photos later to show the issue. What retracts And struts have you gone for?

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Lovely work Nick. It's always impossible to know if they are perfect until you glass then get primer on to see any imperfections but those look the buisness.

I'd be careful relying on the glass and filler to solve the problem at the top of the fuselage. I sometimes feel it takes more effort and quite tricky reshaping areas with filler but perfectly achievable eventually. I just prefer to cut out bits I dont like and replace the balsa then shape it closer. The glass and epoxy add strength so thinner areas due to sanding get some protection. It is hard to see from photos but the rest of your build has been great so just do whatever you think and it will work

Gary

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Nick,

Your build is looking great. I really like your job on the faring. It looks like it is coming along just fine. I think you have the right idea on what to do with the cockpit area

To answer your question on what retracts I am going to be using. I have the same hanger 9 150 P-47 retracts that Trevor used on his Hun Hunter P-47. I will be using them. I already have the spectrum a7040 retract servos for them. I will be making the same modes to the wing ribs Trevor used on his.

Y

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Nick,

Your build is looking great. I really like your job on the faring. It looks like it is coming along just fine. I think you have the right idea on what to do with the cockpit area

To answer your question on what retracts I am going to be using. I have the same hanger 9 150 P-47 retracts that Trevor used on his Hun Hunter P-47. I will be using them. I already have the spectrum a7040 retract servos for them. I will be making the same modes to the wing ribs Trevor used on his.

Y

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Garry, what are you thoughts re the attachment of the cowl? I haven't built a model with a round cowl before so have been looking at the techniques employed by modellers on the forum builds. Various options along with BT's drawings on the plan, though I can't see how the fixings are accessed with his notes

Glassed the fuselage today in one go/piece of cloth. Bit of a mission once I got around to the underside but at least the resin I have been using has a decent pot life. We will see tomorrow how it has worked out! Was made easier by holding off attaching the stab and fin which I will do when all other fus detailing has been completed. As mentioned previously, with a small workshop it makes sense.

Have shaped a plug for the turbo exit from a small off cut of Celotex insulation and primed with acrylic paint. If the resulting overlay of glass cloth is not smooth enough I can use the result as a negative mould. Looking forward now to the rest of the key detailing before priming up.

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4dd01319-56b3-4564-9f40-d3328add3423.jpegRub a dub! Lots of primer filler to loose still but the surface is coming up nicely. The Turbo exit worked out really well and incredibly light. I party sanded the celotex foam away to give the appearance of internal space but left enough foam to give a good glue land. Pretty happy with the wing seat fairing, it’s such a key visual on a model like this so worth all the time spent shaping.985c74e1-d5aa-4f2b-95d4-0e175b56a2a9.jpeg

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