E Motor ideas

[Skippers Walker]

Hi Folks

I'm soon to commence building a Vic Smeed Madcap (45 " span) from an original plan. I flew this design as a F/F model in the 1950/60s with an ED Bee in the nose.

I intend my second attempt to be equipped with simple R/C (3 channel) with electric power replacing the little diesel. The traditional wing is undercambered as so many models were in the F/F designs just post WW2.

Has anyone ventured into building this early design for e power as I would appreciate suggestions for a suitable motor?

SW

[Dwain Dibley.]

If you drop a line to George at 4MAX, with the span, weight and what engine size you used to use, I am sure he will work something out for you.

He has, just today, helped me with the set up for an RBC kits Messerschmitt M19.

D.D.

[DaveyP]

Hi SW, as you know I built a madcap a little while ago and then converted it to electric 3 channel.

I am on it's 2nd setup which uses an Emax cf2822 motor and a basic 20amp esc, my first attempt had a small turnigy motor and a 10amp esc which flew OK but had to be hand launched as it didn't have enough power to take off from grass.

I'll try and post a photo tomorrow.

Davey

[Skippers Walker]

Thanks guys that certainly gives me a guide. I do have an unused 4Max PO2830-1350kv motor but maybe this would be a trifle over powered for the Madcap.

Stay healthy

SW

[DaveyP]

[DaveyP]

Yes I know the spindle is too long and I do have a shorter one but I don't know how to change it......

I'm using 3s 500mA lipos which gives around 5min flight time.

[DaveyP]

This is what it did have at first then a smaller 1.00cc diesel

[Simon Chaddock]

"Yes I know the spindle is too long and I do have a shorter one but I don't know how to change it..."

DaveyP

I suggest you cut off the excess length with a Dremmel (or similar) cut off grinding wheel.

It will do the bearings no favours with such a long over hang and it similarly puts a greater load on the motor bulkhead. Ideally the shaft wants to be long enough so that it fully seats in the prop adaptor yet remains just clear of the front of the bell housing.

I use quite a few of those Emax motors and they give sterling service but they are a 'budget' brand so it pays to be as 'kind' to them as possible.

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Hi DaveyP

+1 to cutting off the excess shaft, but be sure to put some masking tape over the front of the motor, to be sure no fragments of metal can get into the internals of the motor.

Cheers

Jeff

[DaveyP]

Thanks for the suggestion, I've got a Dremel so I'll cut the spindle to a better length.

How easy/difficult is it to change a spindle?

[Toni Reynaud]

How easy/difficult is it to change a spindle?

Easy. The difficult bit is getting the little tiny circlip off the back of the motor to enable pulling the rotor and stator apart. They are very easy to lose during this process!! Having parted the two bits of the motor, find and loosen the grub screw located at the front of the rotor, then using a block of wood with a hole in it for support, tap the old shaft out. Ensure the new shaft has a flat ground on it for the securing grub screw previously loosened and a circumferential slot for the circlip, and push or tap into place. Refit the rotor and stator together, then carefully fit the circlip to the back of the shaft and you're done.

On the whole, just cutting the excess off with a dremel is easier.

Edited By Toni Reynaud on 09/12/2020 15:49:48

[DaveyP]

Hi all, and thanks again for the advice, I chose the easy option and cut the spindle down to size.