Chinesespaceman_ Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Cheers Richard. I have soaked, set to shape and glued, will leave overnight pinned to bench and see how it comes out. Rather than turn the plan over and wet with parrafin I have traced the profile onto some greaseproof paper, reversed this and used to assemble the other side. It is glued with the formers in place and left to dry overnight. (Forgot to drill the holes in the formers for the elevator control rod, so will have to work that out tomorrow night) I am going to try and make a sliding canopy by embedding 2 brass strips either side of the fuselage, so will have to give that some thought before I start sheeting. The destructions state to complete the forward sheeting before joining the halves - can you see any reason why this can't be done last? Where are you up to now? Have you sorted out a steerable tailwheel? Cheers Gav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Gav, If you'll excuse me butting in, you might have seen, earlier in the thread, my musings on the tailwheel - whatever you do I wouldn't advise leaving it castering as per full size - but if you want it steerable rather than fixed as mine has ended up, how about building in an extra servo Y leaded to the rudder or on another channel, radio permitting? Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 I did the same with the plan as I didn't think the parrafin trick would work as I had covered my plan with clear plastic. I did drill the control rod holes but found later I had not got them quite right and had to redrill some of them later and had to make further adjustments after sheeting as they didn't emerge quite in the right places for elevator and rudder. Couldn't get any tool between the formers so turned a drill bit by hand - quite easy with balsa! For the steerable tail wheel I have used one of these . I made a ply base to fix the wheel support which I fixed above the bottom block as it the arm is such that the fuselage would be too high if you fit the arm after the block. Had to improvise the control connection for it as there was no way to connect up with the rudder at the rear end. My solution was to put a splitter on the rudder control rod around the middle of the fuselage (I think between F7 & F8). If you look back to earlier posts you should see a bit about the tail wheel. With hindsight I would go for a separate servo for the tail wheel Y leaded onto the rudder channel. On the subject of servos the mounting is very much down to you to devise your own! As to where I am. I am getting towards finishing off. At various stages of construction, everything has been fitted together, but now before final finishing I'm trying get everything together so that I can check the balance before I fininsh the tail as I think it is heading towards being rather nose heavy so may need to put some weight in the tail. I've been a bit lax in photo taking in the later stages so have not got much to show! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emil Benson Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 Great thread Richard.The chipmunk is one of my all time favourites,can,t wait to see the finished product!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 Emil, Thank you for your kind words! I've finally got round to taking some more photos. Firstly, I would recommend to all future builders of this kit (or any other for that matter) to knock up a bespoke stand something like this. I wish I'd thought of it earlier as it may have saved some of the damage I created in the process of building! Edited By Richard Duvall on 11/05/2009 22:43:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 This shows the steerable tail wheel. You can also see the elevator control linkage. The paint on the evelators is not the final finish but I wanted to get the interfaces failed before I glued the hinges in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 Here is a view of the tail. Work in progress glassing the fin with Poly-C. Plastic trim also fitted to fin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 THe fuselage servo bay. Please excuse the current jumble of wires but I haven't sorted out where to fix the receiver battery yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 Here is the engine mounted. I changed the standard exhaust manifold for a 90 degree version which nicely brought the exhaust round to fit neatly within the cowl. The silicon extension exits through a hole in the cowl. I've also fitted a refuelling valve. And with the cowl on, the refuelling valve is accessible. Cowl primed ready for finishing paint. Edited By Richard Duvall on 11/05/2009 23:05:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Richard, Please make sure that the elevator linkage doesn't introduce potential for flutter - the straighter the linkage the more rigid it will be - unless your bent linkage is very stiff it looks a little suspect in the picture to me. I do appreciate that it may be far more rigid than it appears in the photo of course but it's better to be safe than sorry when you've done all that work so please forgive the unsolicited comment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 Martin, All comments welcome! I've checked the linkage and it is quite stiff - the elevator does not appear to flex much. The rod exits the fuselage a little further back than indicated on the plan resulting in the need for a more significant bend than on the plan. I'll see if I can do something to improve it but unless I open the fuselage up, I suspect there's little I can do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 Hi Richard, looking good, forgive me if I am completely wrong but that prop looks like an electric prop? or is it just the angle? Obviously you mustn't use an electric APC-E prop on an IC it will throw blades, they are not designed to withstand the vibration. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 Danny, thanks for asking but it's not an electric prop! I suspect I may change it for a Master Airscrew one before I'm finished as am am getting fed up with the fragility of APC ones on my trainer. I may also have got the size wrong at 13x8. Following Martins comment above about the elevator linkage, I am in the process of adjusting the exit position of the control rod to allow a straighter connection. Updated photo will follow soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Hi Richard, it must have been the angle that the pic is taken, I had to ask LOL. I must say that I have found the APC range much better than the Master Airscrew, for performance and low noise. the Master Airscrews are great for stirring paint.......but you are right a good prop (rigid) will not tolerate ground strikes etc like an MS will. Apart from those old smoked white nylon props from the 70's perhaps, you could hit the ground vertically and the prop would be the ONLY bit that survived. Great for learning control line flying as a youth........ Yes I would have to agree, straightening that elevator pushrod would be very wise. I look forward to seeing some more pics of your "Chippie" well done Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Godbeer Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Hi Richard I have a question about Poly C which you or any other user may be able to answer please. I have applied 7 coats so far and have almost filled the weave in the glass cloth, a few more coats should do the job.The plane looks great and has a nice smooth shiny finish. Should i sand it prior to priming or will it get sufficient grip as it is? I originally Solartexed the fuz but was never happy with the odd bubble popping up when it got hot in the shed. I am so far pleased with the poly C option. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted June 9, 2009 Author Share Posted June 9, 2009 Mark, I haven't primed all of mine yet but I have sanded prior to priming to eliminate any residual brush marks, although I think Poly-C is good that it doesn't leave too many. I used quite a soft brush. There is a specific thread running on Poly-C, but I don't recall it going into priming so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Sand it with 1200 grade or finer paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 This thread seems rather quiet...how are you getting on, Richard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Godbeer Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 How's the build going Richard? I have added a few pics of mine to wet everyones appetite. Fuz almost finished just waiting for Letters & numbers to arrive. Wing is only waiting for covering, hope to get this done this week. A question to anyone. The engine is an OS52, i have read that the crankcase breather pipe should not be too long. To take it where i want to have it exit, it would be about 9 inches long. will this affect performance? Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Hate to disapiont you Mark,but I dont think that under carriage will work,seriously though you are doing a fine and impressive job,cant answer your question though but Ive heard similar.Richard may be out lost looking for his Super Air,It took me 30 days to find mine and an evening saw it ready to fly again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Godbeer Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Hi Richard Any progress to report on your build? My Chippy is a couple of weeks away from first flight. It has to fly during October to qualify for my Club's Concours competition. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Hello Martin, Stephen & Mark, yes it has been a bit quiet here. I got distracted from the build during the summer months and have been away in New Zealand for a couple of months. I will be getting back onto it in the coming weeks. I need to take stock where I got to! I think it's mainly painting left to do. I don't expect to fly in now till next spring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi g Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Ive got to say richard. mans got taste.. New zealand kitset , new zealand holiday, wow. Great build thread . Im a fan of chipmunks but dont have the airsail one. I do have there tomahawk and auster but theyre a few years old now .and looking a little worse for wear. keep up the great work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klippy Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Hi Mark, I'think you'll find that if your breather is more than 2 or 3 inches long the chankcase won't clear its oil, it'll just move back and forward in the pipe, which I believe has some effect on the running of the motor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 As well as clearing excess oil, the breather system is designed to "encourage" oil mist to migrate via the camshaft and cam followers so it is important to stick to the manufacturers limits or risk premature cam wear.Edited By Martin Harris on 28/10/2009 13:28:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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