Kelly Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 How do you access the needle valve without taking The cowl off on a fully cowled IC engine.Cheers GuysKelvin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Im in the same situation,Ive bought an extension and will make a hole for it to exit the cowling when I reach that stage,Im still building the model at the moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 I only use OS engines which have a hole in the end of the needle into which you can insert an OS needle extension or make one from piano wire. This is held in place with a crub screw which is located on the needle and loosened/tightened using an appropriate allen key. I do not know if other engine makes have this.Hope this helps. Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260 Flyer Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Or of course you could use an engine with a remote needle valve and mount it in a convenient place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted December 8, 2008 Author Share Posted December 8, 2008 Thanks guys.Hi Russ Doh wondered what the grub screw was for.Cheers all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 the vibration on my 90 4 st caused work hardening on the extension which eventually broke. ( the hole in the cowl for the extension had to be big enough for the bent over bit and this gave it all the room it needed to vibrate.) I now use a tip picked up somewhere to put a piece of stiff neoprene ( or similar ) tubing over the needle long enough to reach the cowl - I then put a small hole in the cowl to match up and the tubing guides a screwdriver into the notch cut ( dremel ) on the end of the needle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inspector9566 Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 same as John above i found that using an extention wears the needle velve and the anti vibration spring after a while and the carb settings change in flight I now use the same method as John and no longer suffer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 I have been looking at some tips for the Saito, the method John and Colin have suggested is recommended for the Saito . I will go for this method.Thanks to all Kelvin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Just to add to above, I used the neoprene tubing for my 0.5cc diesel albon dart , but extended the tubing outside the cowl and simply turn the tubing to adjust the needle - you can just about feel the clicks as it turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 There is not much new, this is the original "flexible" needle valve extension on a 1950's Frog 500. Easy to take outside the cowl if required and no vibration issues. I must restore it & get it going one day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inspector9566 Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Kelvin use the outer of a bic biro resined onto the needle velve to locate the screwdriver dont forget to cut a slot in the top first use a bit of wax across the top of the slot to stop the resin filling up the slot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Thanks Simon and Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 I have used a mix of the methods suggested.I cut a slot in the needle valve, a bit of heat shrink and hard plastic tubing as found in a electrical connectors bits and bobs box from Aldi.Photo of finished jobTiny hole in the cowl.Thanks again for the adviceKelvin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 I have used an old wound brass/bronze guitar string as in the Frog 500 configuration above . By the way -they were a b----r to start weren't they ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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