Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 3, 2023 Author Share Posted September 3, 2023 Next down to the other end. With the rudder servo at neutral I connected the wires to the rudder where most of the further required adjustment will take place. I re-covered the hole cut in the white film behind the the canopy as hopefully I won't need to get behind it again. Before I do anything else I will finish off the main undercarriage assembly. I will reinforce the spats internals with glass fibre cloth to help with wear and tear. That's for the next visit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 8, 2023 Author Share Posted September 8, 2023 Bit too hot to fly today (for me anyway) therefore I decided to do a bit on the Capiche. U/C comes next. Nothing strange here, but I must mention the wheel collets which have a proper hex bolt in them. Much better than the infernal grub screws which if you drop it's hells on job to find them. As a modification I strengthened the spats with fibre glass cloth and resin. The rest was conventional all fixed after that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 8, 2023 Author Share Posted September 8, 2023 The job is to set up the motor with a Hobbywing programming box. The ESC is an Opto 160 FlyFun 130-160 HV and I thought I had the correct box ..... Nope, it seems I need a specific Hobbywing FlyFun box V5! Now I thought I had one as I appear to have the instructions for it. Do you think I can find it? Grrrrr ........ So it's a swift purchase from Nexus for £9.99 to source the correct one. That's about it until the box arrives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted September 9, 2023 Share Posted September 9, 2023 After the new programmer turns up and you've used it, you'll go to put it somewhere safe. That's where the old one will be. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 9, 2023 Author Share Posted September 9, 2023 There's a good chance you are right,Gary. My good lady wife said that I had probably had a "Daddy look" and that's why I can't find it, adding that if I did a "Mummy look" it will come to light! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted September 9, 2023 Share Posted September 9, 2023 5 hours ago, Adrian Smith 1 said: There's a good chance you are right,Gary. My good lady wife said that I had probably had a "Daddy look" and that's why I can't find it, adding that if I did a "Mummy look" it will come to light! Together with.......🤣🤣🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 10, 2023 Author Share Posted September 10, 2023 Royal Mail at it's finest sent me an email Saturday saying delivery was for that day (that's an aspiration rather than a promise by the way). That didn't happen although I have had another email today to say it will be delivered today (Sunday!!!) . I will see about that Huh ..... Admittedly I paid for 24hr delivery and today will be 48 hours ...... 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 10, 2023 Author Share Posted September 10, 2023 Well RM turned up after all with the Programming Box 😀 There are stick on labels for different applications. In this case I want the FlyFun V5 table 1. There are couple of other labels if needed. As I am using a HobbyWing Flyfun OPTO ESC the throttle wire plugs into the left hand slot while power source of up to 8.4v goes into right socket. This according to the manual. I am using a 2S RX lipo for this purpose. This is because there is no separate socket in the ESC for a programming lead. Hopefully I will get this sorted during the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 11, 2023 Author Share Posted September 11, 2023 After a positive start I eventually had a deeply disappointing morning ....... 😖 First job was to link the RX to the TX - all good. Plugged in the rudder, elevators and ailerons to the RX. Altered the senses where necessary and got them functioning perfectly. Incidentally it is a quirk of Futaba that to get the throttle working the channel has be reversed. This has been done on all my models in the memory by the way. On to the business end which started promisingly. I plugged in the throttle lead to the Programming box using the 2S battery as a power source and this what I got - Something not right here. The instructions in the manual at best are poorly worded with the English a bit difficult to follow. Anyway I decided to dispense with the 2S Lipo and just plug the throttle lead (No separate programming lead from the ESC by the way) into the box with the power generated by the power train Lipos Alleluia!! All good. Checked all the values and they are all in line with my thoughts. Next I decided to calibrate the throttle range with the programming box disconnected. I made sure the end points were sufficient wide on the TX throttle channel as normal compared to my other models. I performed the calibration method as described in the manual (standard method) However, the motor won't run at all - dead as a Dodo. The only thing that happens is a single beep every 6-7 seconds from the motor. Looking at the ESC trouble shooting guide it seems it could be somewhere in the throttle lead signal, but not certain. The ESC is set for 12S so it's not that as I am using two 6S lipos in series. The other suggestion is that there is no throttle signal from the RX. Well it worked in Programming Box so why not now. Throttle range too narrow? Nope - 100%+ either way. Throttle stick not been moved to the bottom position - certainly has. The next thing to look at is all the connections I guess. Failing that I will try the power train and ESC from my Sbach which has the same motor as the Capiche. At least if I try my Sbach ESC and wiring set up in the on the Capiche's motor to see if it's a faulty motor. Or just swap the motors over to see if it's the Capiche's ESC that's at fault, but I am doubtful. I even checked to make sure I got the ESC which is an OPTO version. Not that then. Right now now I am too exasperated to try anything next and I have just left it on the bench for another day having spent the best part of 2 hours trying thing to see if they work. Any other suggestions gents? All gratefully received as I am not too experienced to learn a new lesson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 11, 2023 Author Share Posted September 11, 2023 The last time something like this happened which was some years ago it was proved as a faulty motor. I can't seriously can't imagine a brand new Dualsky GA6000.8 as being faulty surely ....... they are usually so reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Lewis 3 Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 Check the motor is OK with another ESC, doesn't matter if it is a low spec esc say a 6 cell max just use a single battery the motor will still work anyway, just not at a speed that would fly the plane. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 11, 2023 Author Share Posted September 11, 2023 I really appreciate your feedback, Philip. Sounds like a good plan to start with. I have another ESC that I can try. I may have to solder some different gold connectors on, but that is small beer in the route to the truth.👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 13, 2023 Author Share Posted September 13, 2023 At last a positive outcome! As Philip suggested I dug out the only spare ESC I had which was a lower specification ie: FlyFun 110A Opto. I had to re-solder some gold connectors on to match those on the Capiche motor and power drive leads. I did use 2 x 6S lipos wired up in series. Fired it all up and lo and behold the motor sprang to life! Checked her all over happy that test was completed. What to do with original ESC? I bought it 2 months ago for this specific project from Leeds MS, but since I soldered some connectors on it I guess that negates any guarantee. I guess I will just had to put that one done to experience. Anyway onwards and upwards as I will have to source another OPTO ESC rated to my set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Lewis 3 Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 I wouldn't expect soldering on connectors to invalidate any warranty, after all how else could you even test it? I would give them a ring and explain the situation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 13, 2023 Author Share Posted September 13, 2023 I will try that, Philip. It's not as though I don't have a relationship with MSL. In fact I order loads of stuff from them so I hope they realise I am not trying it on. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Lewis 3 Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 (edited) Might also be worth trying that ESC in another known good set up, i.e. where everything works but you just substitute the ESC, you haven't done anything to the ESC have you like disconnecting the red ESC lead that plugs into the reciver? It won't work if you have on an OPTO ESC. I don't know this particular ESC but many expensive ESC's have both overcurrent and over temp protection so in theory cannot be blown up by the user as they protect themselves at all costs (going to a low power setting to allow you to land). That might make it easier to get a refund, also as you say if you have multiple purchases with the shop with no problems then you are much more likely to get a fair hearing. If supplied new with no connectors then I can't see how a refund could be refused simply because you had soldered on something required to make it work, I also can't see how soldering on connectors could no matter now badly could render a good ESC to a no longer working ESC. I really ought to add to that I have never had any dealings with Leeds Model Shop but I have never heard a bad word said about them, anyway, good luck. Edited September 13, 2023 by Philip Lewis 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 14, 2023 Author Share Posted September 14, 2023 No, Philip no leads disconnected. All my ESCs are OPTO because my squadron is basically large scale. I haven't given up on it completely. It's less of a priority now, but I will test it again on another set up as you suggest after I have checked the soldered connections. I consider Hobbywing ESCs to be of good quality and they are by no means the cheapest on the market. I am just a bit surprised on this one as I have never had a problem with them. I am going to replace it one way or another so that I can get on with the Capiche assembly. Thanks again for your input. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Lewis 3 Posted September 14, 2023 Share Posted September 14, 2023 I agree, Hobbywing ESC's are pretty good quality, I've had quite a few of them with no issues, they are a very good and reputable mid range ESC and have very good motor compatibility and work with motors perfectly well where other ESC's just won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 16, 2023 Author Share Posted September 16, 2023 I have had a good morning. Unboxed the replacement OPTO ESC (130-160A) ready to solder on all the gold connectors . I went for a slightly higher priced Platinum HobbyWing ESC. After all the soldering was done I decided to attach the programme box. The default setting is for Helis so it was a quick job to change to Fixed wing. I quickly flicked through the values until I reached the Timing setting. The default is 15 with the option of going up to 30. Balancing out the need for power + duration I left it here. Obviously raising the timing to nearer 30 will give more power at the cost of duration. There is no guide on the motor manual as to the preferred timing so it's a case of suck and see. The ESC is supplied with a fan unit which can be attached to the ESC. I am not sure if this is a gimmick or not as I have not fitted one before to a couple of other HW ESCs and they have been ok. Any thoughts or views on that if you have used them before? Last job this morning was to tidy up the wiring and yes the throttle works just fine after calibration with the TX. The throttle signal lead underneath the ESC will be sleeved with a coiled plastic protective tube before I put the cowl back on. Hopefully I will be able to get on with the assembly next week. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 17, 2023 Author Share Posted September 17, 2023 Time to give some thought to the throw settings. The manual sheet gives intermediate settings from the inboard point as ailerons 20mm +/-, Elevator 35mm +/- and Rudder 45mm +/-. For advanced it just says MAX for all! The CoG normal range is 225mm up to 240mm for experts from the leading edge of the wing at the root. I will probably settle on mid-range for the CoG to start with and intermediate throws and see how I go. That's the next work shop visit sorted I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Lewis 3 Posted September 17, 2023 Share Posted September 17, 2023 22 hours ago, Adrian Smith 1 said: The ESC is supplied with a fan unit which can be attached to the ESC. I am not sure if this is a gimmick or not as I have not fitted one before to a couple of other HW ESCs and they have been ok. Any thoughts or views on that if you have used them before? I would say that the fan is principally for use when fitted in a Heli where it is very common to have a fan on the ESC for additional cooling, (and the default was after all for a Heli set up), because in a Heli there is virtually no airflow over the heatsink, provided you have reasonable airflow I don't think you will need or benefit from it in a fixed wing plane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 17, 2023 Author Share Posted September 17, 2023 Thanks, Philip. There will be plenty of air flow through Capiche. I will be cutting the covering where the exhaust tunnel is. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 18, 2023 Author Share Posted September 18, 2023 In the end I reduced the end points on the elevators and rudder to 30mm and 40mm respectively as I didn't want to go crazy at the start plus the throw look quite wide. The ailerons remain at 20mm. Used my preferred gauge provided by the now defunct Aeroworks. Wow! I had some great aerobats from them back in the day. I looked at the recommended CoG range and marked on the inner rib out of interest. Seems that the forward measurement is well behind the wing spar. I will check again on that and I will also look at my old Capiche 140 to see where the CoG range is located on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted September 18, 2023 Share Posted September 18, 2023 For precision aeros I normally start with 10 deg up/down for ailerons and elevators and 25 deg for rudder and go from there. I probably have less control area than you have with the Capiche. I know on my Capiche 140 - now sold sadly - all the control surfaces were massive for good 3D performance. Never tried 3D so can't comment on whether the throws were right or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted September 19, 2023 Author Share Posted September 19, 2023 In truth I am not an exponent of 3D and never have been, Peter. I am more along the lines of freestyle aerobatics rather than the strict F3A precision flying. That said I take your point on the throws they do seem a bit excessive to start with. There are no recommendations for low rates I guess that's because it's a plane that's really not meant for the novice flier in any shape or form. Anyway I am still a little way away from the maiden as there are still a few jobs and checks to be done before I commit to air, so I have some time to think about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.