Philip Lewis 3

These are the other way round, being a bi-plane it's not possible to adjust the wing incidence at all, that is fixed so the incidence adjustment is in the horizontal stabiliser instead. Good to have got the first flight nerves out of the way though, C of G as specified seems to be perfect, quite unusual, I normally have to move it back.

Maidened today, no drama, no issues, actually needed about 1mm of down elevator to fly straight and level so I'll set to work on dialing that out on the horizontal stbiliser incidence adjusters.

If you want something that works like velcro but has a much stronger grip try 3M Dual Lock, also has the advantage that both sides are the same.

If the trailing edge is spot on then I would fill it with either blenderm tape as has been suggested or cut some thin strips of iron on film and iron it into the gap.

Does the trailing edge of the aileron line up with the trailing eddge of the wing? If it doesn't (sticks out too much which, in theory it should) then I would cut and rehinge with CA hinges to make perfect.

I hope so too Peter, maybe Friday maybe next week, I did take it out for its first drive today to carry out a proper range check, all good (obviously).

OK, so, putting that altogther I thought you might like to see the finished article.

I get those all of the time, even though I've been in all day, also from UPS, Fedex Parcel force and DPD, they are phishing e mails just delete them, compare it to a real Evri e mail and I beleive it always says who the parcel is from whilst the phishing ones don't.

You be careful Duncan, you'll get sucked in again, although that said the A-25 is a very nice schedule, it flows well. You'll probably see it next year now, I'm mostly there mid week evenings in the (ahem) summer, care to join me? A25-Manoeuvre-Descriptions.pdf

The Turnigy is a really strong motor, if that doesn't work out most practical alternative would be something from Dualsky or if money no object then Hacker, you'll want about 4KW minimum but more is fun!

A Turnigy Rotormax 50cc is what I used (or an equivalent) in an MXS R about the same size that was designed for a 60cc petrol, much more power than the petrol equivalent, from memory swinging a 24" X 12" prop with about 5.5 KW on tap, 12 cell pack.

To be honest Peter I’ve enjoyed this build more than any other, the templates are absolutely dead right so it’s really not that difficult a job. It’s great to only cut the servo holes to the servo’s you are actually going to use but definitely a plane where you need to do more thinking before any cutting for sure. The finish is light years ahead of anything else I’ve ever owned and dealing with Algirdas in Lithuania was superb, the only (minor) downside being that it was delivered at 4 am! (although to be fair the guy who delivered it knew what it was and obviously took great care of it). I guess an advantage of building the same plane again is you learn from the big and small mistakes of the first one and although sad at the loss of the first one I’m sure you’ll ultimately think the second one is better.

Ok then, onto the power side, we got the following front and rear mount parts with it. And this is what's going to go into into it. A closer look at the drive unit for anyone interested. So, after a lot of aligning involving standing the fuselage on it's nose and carefully with an angle guage ensuring it was level in both planes it was tacked in with some cyno, when dry it was all checked again and then epoxied into the nose like this. Left that over night and then bolted the rear mounts into place and then epoxied them onto the fuselage sides. Alignement looking pretty good. Put in the cross rails to support the battery tray, the two carbon rods unerneath are to mount the esc to as that will be in direct airflow from the front. ESC mounted. Battery tray has grip mat where the bars are and on the top to stop battery slip, it's simply held down with ratchet ties to make it easy to get out. A quick look at the pull pull system rining from the centre of the plane down to the tail.

Just start on the wingtube an adjust to suit from there.

So, onto the wings and tailplane, first job is to cut the slot for the rudder horns in the tailplane, we use this jig, this goes both sides as this is a pull pull system so the horns go both sides. As the slot goes right through the tailplane the horns top and bottom interlock with easy other. Next job is to cut out the slots for the servo's in the wings and the horn slot, making absolutely sure to cut them into the right side of the wing, again we have a jig for this. A good technique to check where the glassed in supports are with fibreglass is to shine a powerful torch from the other side, you can make out the wood for the servo screws here. The wings all finished less the wiring and linkages. The white brackets are for the struts to connect to. Wings with wiring and linkages all done, MPX plugs used to attach each wing electrically to the receivers outputs. A close up of the servo linkage, that's a ball raced linkage on the horn end and the two alloy couplers are left and right hand threaded to create a turnbuckle, rod is 3mm carbon and the servo end is a ball link. In this photo it hasn't been adjusted yet, but the servo arm will be set to exactly 90 degrees to the control rod angle of travel by adjusting the PWM centre point and then the turnbuckle mechanically adjusted to centre the aileron with the wing. Next up is the drive installation.