Philip Lewis 3

Before you try this make sure you check your specific router, the Linksys ones I use in our F3A scoring system run on 9 volts and I use these to provide the 9 volts from an old no longer good enough to use in flight 5 cell LiPo, if anyone is interested an old 5,000 mah LiPo would power said router for 4 or 5 days.

I also connect the two bullet connectors together, as much to show the recycler that it is truly flat as much anything else.

They all are though, that said I only build a new one about every three years which cushions the blow, price above is also ex vat and delivery and it doesn't end there, what goes into it isn't exactly cheap either.

Is there any interest in seeing a sort of build blog of this, OK, not a traditional build in the balsa sense but not exactly just an assembly either, this is about as much of a build as you can get with a full composite, this is pretty much what comes out of the mould, nothing at all done for you further than that.

Not if they are installed mirror imaged, if so they will always need one reversed in the same way that ailerons mirror imaged can always use a Y lead because one doesn't need to be reversed.

A lot of Audi's do that, and the amount of tilt is configurable as well.

Yes, in dual elevator servo's on separate channels one of them will always need to be reversed.

I think you need to answer your second question first, in fact why go from a live current and curently being developed still further system (which supports multi module) to either Open TX or Edge TX in the first place, if it's just to releive boredom and experiment then fine but that can obviously cause problems if you aren't carefull.

I think quite a lot depends on the car manufacturer, I've got an ex Audi demonstrator with every conceivable extra and all can be set as early medium or late warning and that stays set, obviously they can also be turned off completely, they work really well with the exception of the lane assist which down a country road picks up only the left hand side of the lane so will try to steer you down the middle, however that is turned off by a button on the end of the stalk not deep down in a some menu. Start stop used to anoy me but not so much anymore as it fires up the engine when the car in front moves off and the all round camera's not allowing you to hit an object you can't see to either front rear or either side are a real blessing, I really like that.

I totally accept it could well not be the clubs decission, such as a condition of tenure, I'm specifically talking about where the club alone decides to make it a rule without any outside interference.

I wouldn't even think of joining a club that had a rule that said I couldn't fly on my own, nanny state disseminated down to club level, just like it was at a lot of clubs during covid with so e of thise rules still in place. What about all the country members and lone drone flyers? Should we not go out for a walk on our own or drive a car solo? Sometimes you just got to take a risk, just make sure it's a reasonable one is my thinking.

Good luck with trying that, just don't expect immediate results, it takes quite a bit of time to transition over (at least it did me), you might also want to lengthen the stick ends by unscrewing them a bit or get new longer stick ends. After a while of gettiing used to the new feeling though you will never want to go back.

I've also like Peter used both depron and very thin ply to direct the airflow to where I want it but in your case Adrian I'd make a much easier cheaper and straightforward suggestion, currently when you think about it the airflow comes in the front and exits that big hole at the back, at the best it skims over the esc but it pobably doesn;t really get into the fins, prop the back up, about 45 degress up if you can (I use foam blocks for this that come with the Falcon Propellers and Evo stik), the incoming airflow will thenhave to "hit" the Esc and you should get much better cooling. To back up what you found the other day, a few years ago I did some testing of Esc Temps using a telemetry sensor, the ESC in the air using normal power settings the Esc would reach 32-34C but interestingly just land and the temprature would then continue to climb to about 42 C then gradually cool, and that's without any taxying, also bear in mind that say the ESC switches of at 80 C it might not switch back on again until considerably lower which could take a long time to reach especially on a warm day. Electronics doesn't like heat and rund better when cooler, it really isn't a good idea to run right on the edge, the cooler the better, just look at PC CPU Coolers to get an idea, a PC CPU is about the same size as an ESC but just look at the size of some of the air coolers!

Quick footnote to my post above, when you take an existing heatsink off you will find (or should) heat transfer paste underneath, this is like a soft plasticine and should come off in a clean sheet, do not confuse with heat tranfer glue as the paste is neither sticky and nor does it ever set. Also quite likely as heat transfer paste requires the heatsink to be mechanically held on it's been held on by them wrapping heatshrink around the ends, itself thereby preventing through movement of air through the fins of the heatsink, simply changing from a wrapped on heatsink to one held on with glue is likely to improve things a lot.

Or you could put a "propper" decent heatsink on it, the heatsinks they put on these are very minimal, hardly any mass to sink the heat into and very little fin are to carry it away either. You can get blocks of aluminium heatsink on e bay and cut down to the size that you want easily and cleaply on e bay, what's left over will probably be enough for another or two, best way to attach is with a dedicated heat sink glue. I doubt that about 15 grams would make that much difference to performance that's about what it would cost you.