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Philip Lewis 3

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Everything posted by Philip Lewis 3

  1. I think you need to answer your second question first, in fact why go from a live current and curently being developed still further system (which supports multi module) to either Open TX or Edge TX in the first place, if it's just to releive boredom and experiment then fine but that can obviously cause problems if you aren't carefull.
  2. I think quite a lot depends on the car manufacturer, I've got an ex Audi demonstrator with every conceivable extra and all can be set as early medium or late warning and that stays set, obviously they can also be turned off completely, they work really well with the exception of the lane assist which down a country road picks up only the left hand side of the lane so will try to steer you down the middle, however that is turned off by a button on the end of the stalk not deep down in a some menu. Start stop used to anoy me but not so much anymore as it fires up the engine when the car in front moves off and the all round camera's not allowing you to hit an object you can't see to either front rear or either side are a real blessing, I really like that.
  3. I totally accept it could well not be the clubs decission, such as a condition of tenure, I'm specifically talking about where the club alone decides to make it a rule without any outside interference.
  4. I wouldn't even think of joining a club that had a rule that said I couldn't fly on my own, nanny state disseminated down to club level, just like it was at a lot of clubs during covid with so e of thise rules still in place. What about all the country members and lone drone flyers? Should we not go out for a walk on our own or drive a car solo? Sometimes you just got to take a risk, just make sure it's a reasonable one is my thinking.
  5. Good luck with trying that, just don't expect immediate results, it takes quite a bit of time to transition over (at least it did me), you might also want to lengthen the stick ends by unscrewing them a bit or get new longer stick ends. After a while of gettiing used to the new feeling though you will never want to go back.
  6. I've also like Peter used both depron and very thin ply to direct the airflow to where I want it but in your case Adrian I'd make a much easier cheaper and straightforward suggestion, currently when you think about it the airflow comes in the front and exits that big hole at the back, at the best it skims over the esc but it pobably doesn;t really get into the fins, prop the back up, about 45 degress up if you can (I use foam blocks for this that come with the Falcon Propellers and Evo stik), the incoming airflow will thenhave to "hit" the Esc and you should get much better cooling. To back up what you found the other day, a few years ago I did some testing of Esc Temps using a telemetry sensor, the ESC in the air using normal power settings the Esc would reach 32-34C but interestingly just land and the temprature would then continue to climb to about 42 C then gradually cool, and that's without any taxying, also bear in mind that say the ESC switches of at 80 C it might not switch back on again until considerably lower which could take a long time to reach especially on a warm day. Electronics doesn't like heat and rund better when cooler, it really isn't a good idea to run right on the edge, the cooler the better, just look at PC CPU Coolers to get an idea, a PC CPU is about the same size as an ESC but just look at the size of some of the air coolers!
  7. Quick footnote to my post above, when you take an existing heatsink off you will find (or should) heat transfer paste underneath, this is like a soft plasticine and should come off in a clean sheet, do not confuse with heat tranfer glue as the paste is neither sticky and nor does it ever set. Also quite likely as heat transfer paste requires the heatsink to be mechanically held on it's been held on by them wrapping heatshrink around the ends, itself thereby preventing through movement of air through the fins of the heatsink, simply changing from a wrapped on heatsink to one held on with glue is likely to improve things a lot.
  8. Or you could put a "propper" decent heatsink on it, the heatsinks they put on these are very minimal, hardly any mass to sink the heat into and very little fin are to carry it away either. You can get blocks of aluminium heatsink on e bay and cut down to the size that you want easily and cleaply on e bay, what's left over will probably be enough for another or two, best way to attach is with a dedicated heat sink glue. I doubt that about 15 grams would make that much difference to performance that's about what it would cost you.
  9. Just as as aside I use two 4 cell packs in series in my eight cell planes, that gives me plenty of four cell packs for other uses and generallly better availability and choice of batteries as well.
  10. Almost all electrical switches are "Fail On", if they fail they won't switch off, they use a small current to hold the switch off so the answer is pretty much yes they do.
  11. Insert a couple of sprung connectors in the line e.g. XT30 or similar and then you don't have to keep connecting and disconnecting servo plugs which just aren't made for that purpose.
  12. Especially when it's an actual word they have spelt wrong, not like a name where they wouldn't know. Anyone who can spell would know that.
  13. The magnets are held in with epoxy in the first place so if it's simply come unstuck the re-applying epoxy is just fine because that was how it was made in the first place, however there is a good chance that the reason it came lose in the first place was because the motor overheated, epoxy strong as it is has a fairly low melting point, you can actually remove it with a hairdryer set on the hottest setting, I've done that many times from composite fuselages, removes and cleans it up a treat.
  14. A great weekend was had by UK F3A up at Buckminster last weekend at the UK F3A Championships and the UK round of the World Cup with guests from France and the Netherlands.
  15. You can probably push these on with either nimble finger nails or a couple of flat head screwdrivers, top tip though, get a small clear plastic bag and push it on with the axle and e clip inside the bag, that way if it pings off it will still be in the bag and won't fly away to where all the small items disappear to.
  16. I use them as well, same way as Peter but have been doing so for over a year, I use the 5,000 mah ones which will get through a F3A FAI P-25 schedule quite easily coming down about 19.00 volts which on my chargers is storage charge, my 5,000 packs are 35C though and weigh in at 555 grams which is very competitive and only 30 grams more than my old 5,000 mah Zippy compact packs which are only 25 C, it wouldn't surprise me if Peter's 5,200 25C packs (I'm asuming here) are lighter than my 5,000 packs although the weight might not be so important to you. I used Zippy Compacts for years and they were fine, only switched when supply got pretty impossible post Brexit (I bought 24 packs from the EU warehouse just before Brexit). Roaring Top have always been available on their Amazon site whenever I've looked and of couse available straightaway, next day if you like, and pretty good value in my opinion as well. Mine are about a year old and absolutely solid with no bloating or gassing at all. Don't bother with trying to research the Roaring Top name, these batteries are actually made by Fullymax a worldwide recognised manufacturer. I'm pretty sure Fullymax cells are used in some pretty expensive LiPo battery packs. Highly recommended by me and I've never had a duff pack either.
  17. I agree entirely with Ron, set the max travel to the maximum you will need as per the max throws recommended, completely irrelevant whether that is in degrees or mm, Toto is a beginner, he's not about to take his A test yet, and nowhere near his B test, stop confusing him and just keep it simple at this stage is my advice, intricacies can come in much later on. Set max rates as above and min rates as half the above, don't bother about mid rates, at this stage keep it simple. Then the obvious, get someone experienced to test it out and modify if needed.
  18. No you can just top them up, LiPo's have no memory and this won't do them any harm, on the other had LiPo's should never really be completely discharged anyway.
  19. Totally agree Peter, but in my competitive sailing days I was often asked "how do you learn to sail in strong winds" and my answer was always the same, go out and sail in strong winds. I think I got that from Lawrie Smith one of the best Olympians we have ever had. I think the same applies here. Total respect to the devotion though, best of luck in the competition to you and Mark.
  20. Braver than me Peter, I saw the forecast and thought "no thank you".
  21. My advice is to never reject expert help (and never be afraid or think of it as a kind of weakness to ask), when I used to train/instruct accomplished pilots for their B test or more advanced aerobatics I would always ask them if they wanted to buddy up with me and when trying something they had never tried before most of them gratefully accepted it, far better to have a back up and not need it than than not to have it then need it. Phil
  22. Oh Toto, gaining flying solo status or even passing your A Test isn't the end goal, it's just the true beggining of a trully wonderful journey that never ends.
  23. Fling a 3D plane you most certainly don't want soft start or slow start enabled, those are settings mainly for heli's, whether you want any brake (to slow down lines) is up to you. Sounds fine to me.
  24. Also important to note that if you need to refuel (change batteries) then you allowed to do so.
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