DAVID CLIFFORD Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Nice one Mike, Would like to know how it goes with the electric conversion and how you get around the battery instalation issue. Some pics please if poss. Steven, I think this is a matter of personal prefferance. You wont want to fly anything else once you get the Texan airborne anyway mate. I have been a scale man for a long time but i love this plane. it does everything you ask and comes back for more. The Black Horse "air" series are great and tested planes, many people swear by them, in fact Stuart was swearing just yesterday as he stuffed a brand new one into the pond after losing radio. Edited By DAVID CLIFFORD on 09/10/2009 10:56:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 I was flying a Kyosho Oxalys until my thumbs got the better of the aircraft! Since the Oxalys is built to fly and is quite delicate in places, I decided that I'd add so much weight with a repair and probably end up with a bent fuselage so looked around for a replacement and saw the ARTF Wot 4. The price was tempting and, when it arrived in my local model shop, raced down to pick one up. It goes together very easily. I think mine had a slight problem with the tail wheel wire in that it was too short for the wheel and the collet - despite lots of lock tite I lost the tailwheel on the third flight. I have to commend the substantial cowling moulding - so much thicker than almost any other fibreglass cowl that has come my way. The first flight was uneventful even though it was a gusty day. Interestingly, it need quite a bit of up elevator trim and a tweak on the ailerons. On the low rates recommended it felt very sluggish but full rates are much better although I think I'll need to add a bit more movement. In comparison to the Oxalys (poor comparison I know) it feels much less like a thoroughbred but it does everything you want. I think I'll more the CG aft from the stated value - which incidentally it balanced on by just moving the battery up to the forward bulkhead. I think I'll also add some more decoration to the underside of the wing to help in orientation for when things get hectic! I have found that the rudder has tremendous authority and generates tremendous roll from knife edge - i.e. from wings vertical, application of rudder will roll her wings level unless you feed in anti-rudder aileron - interesting! All in all, especially for £89.99, it is exceptionally good value, flies extremely well and looks pretty good considering how long ago it was designed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Taylor 1 Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Hi everybody, I'm new to this forum and new to r/c flying. I bought a Wot 4 rtf kit last week and hope to maiden this weekend. I have one question to the guys that have recently built one about the aileron servo connections. When you take your wing off for transport/storage do you have to unplug yours from the receiver? As I said, I am new to r/c flying but it just doesn't seem right to unplug/plug them into the receiver each time and it would have been better if the extensions remained in the receiver permanently and just unplug the extension from the servo lead instead but my servo leads do not reach the exit hole in the wing. Are yours the same? Is it okay to keep plugging/unplugging from the receiver? Have I done something wrong? Thanks in advance for any help, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Hi Mark and welcome - a very good point. It's sensible to have an extension lead in the receiver so, as you say, that way you're not stressing the receiver connection direct by continually plugging and unplugging - just connect and disconnect the extensions when taking the wing off. You may find that, with the Rx buried in foam or just a bit fiddly to get to, that this is more practical too. Best to plug the ailerons into channels 1 and 6 (Futaba), enable flapperon, so you can then independently adjust them at the Tx. Edited By David Ashby - RCME moderator on 13/10/2009 08:45:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVID CLIFFORD Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Hi Mark and welcome, First you will need to plug extension leads to the servos and secure them using thread or small cable ties or something similar. you can buy holders for this as well. You will then need a y lead or if you are using an AR500 2.4 Rx you can put two short extensions into each aileron plug, Personally a short Y lead is more practical. Bury the Rx in foam and just leave the y lead accessible. Click here to see what i mean. You can get these from any good model shop. again welcome. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Taylor 1 Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 David, Thanks for the quick reply. Do you mean I should buy two more extension leads to get around the problem? Is it okay to have two extensions between each servo and the receiver? At the moment I have a 300mm extension as per the instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Yup, get a couple of short ones, that'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVID CLIFFORD Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Absolutely, two 100mm from aileron servos to Rx then a short y lead Simples D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Phillips Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 The motor I am putting in is a Turnigy equivalent to the AX I 4120 14 shown in Chris Foss's drawing on his site The motor is shown as bolting straight onto the firewall Do you think I am going to need to put a bit of down force in to offset the power which this motor has or see how it goes with it bolted straight on horizontal to the firewall Any comments would be appreciated Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme Evans Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 the firewall isn't square, it's a couple of degrees offset already. Unless electric is different (don't think so) you should use a square bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Phillips Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Thanks Graeme I am converting the model to electric so it will be the same model cant see any offset downward or to right. on the firewall although 2 degrees in not much i suppose my son cant see anything either so thinking about putting a couple of thin washers under the top two holes of the engine mounting bracket Mike Edited By Phil Wood - Moderator on 13/10/2009 20:05:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weasel Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 hello i am intrested in buying a wot 4 artf, to replace my sunday hack of the black horse twister. would the plane be ok, to fit a 4 stroke engine or would it look out of place. i have a new sc70fs looking for a home. will this engine be sufficient. regards weasel.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme Evans Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 I'm sure it'd go brilliantly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme Evans Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 the kit version lists .40 - .90 4 stroke The Artf isn't all that different, looks like Ripmax have been lazy not recommending 4 stroke engine sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weasel Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 thanks graeme, thats champion, will order a kit first thing the morn. cheers weasel......... keeping the fire lit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVID CLIFFORD Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Hi Weasel good to see you again, How did you get on with the charger? I bought this to replace my twister as well and i have no regrets at all. This plane will go great with the 70 in it, sound real good too. Mike, the thrust angle is set in the firewall so just bolt it straight on. just make sure the distance from wall to prop adaptor is the same as in the instructions for an I.C. I must humbly offer a confession at this point and beg forgivness to all when i said i felt the ones putting an Irvine 53 in the model would rip the wings off. I currently have an O.S 46LA in mine and it goes well. A member of the club brought his down for a maiden over the weekend with the 53 in it and i was visibly impressed with the performance, so much so that i have visited leeds model shop today and purchased one for my WOT 4! Heres to having more power D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Phillips Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 As i believe this model can float , and I am going to have to land it in a field surrounded by trees flaperons seem a good idea On gliders I have had the ailerons go upwards when flaps are employed but I believe they can also go downwards. Any recommendations for this please thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 If it floats on and you want to stop it short, then spoilers ( spoilerons ) may be better.This is aper your gliders where the control surfaces both deflect UP which act as both braking by increasing drag, and laso reduces lift of the wing due to changing its camber shape to reflex instead. Using flaps may just keep it floating on even longerBeware, some models exhibit starange behaviour when set up with flapperons or spoilerons on wings with full length strip ailerons...and I tried both methods on my electric WOT 4 and it didnt like itTBH, unless you have really tricky landing areas, your best off just practicing throttle and elevator management and proper base leg turns at the right spot and height. Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 15/10/2009 15:58:22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Phillips Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Thanks Timbo thanks for your info will try as you suggest Nice to hear from you again you assisted me previously with a Cularis Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 Sorry, Mike, I just cant t remeber everything /everyone - its an age thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Phillips Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 You are not alone!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrowot0 Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 well said Timbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 hello, I'm a newbie to this forum. Don't know if this is the right place, but the Wot 4 mk 3 seems that new that I can't find a lot of info on it? I'm also thinking of buying a Wot 4 mk 3, though am also considering the Wot trainer? (I hate making decisions!) I've seen threads that suggest that there are plenty of good alternatives around? From what (wot?) I can see the Wot trainer is more of a trainer, heavier, well constructed, more dihedral? (I had a chance to look at the kit) and the Wot 4 mk 3 is more aerobatic, not a trainer as such. (Haven't seen the kit or construction.) At the moment I fly one of Stan Yeo's (Phoenix Models) old Peppi trainers that I have self-modified with ailerons, and occasionally, when I feel brave enough, fly a Stan Yeo Kerfuffle with an MDS 40, his low wing aerobatic model., which I'm told can be a handful unless throttled well back. And I find it a bit scary at times. Mostly lately I can get into our little strip ok with my Peppi trainer and do the odd roll and loop. Fortunately Stan's planes happily accept the odd bad landing! I'm thinking it's time to move on and I think the Wot 4 mk 3 is the way to go. I was thinking of putting a 2 stroke 40 or 46 in it. From what the ads say, it will fly slowly, float in if I want, or happily do basic aerobatics. Q1. The old Wot trainer looked pretty solid, the new Wot 4 MK 3 is lighter; will it take the odd bounce? Q2. Would this be a good next step for me? Thanks in anticipation. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Hi Bob and welcome aboard. Either of the Wottys will do fine, and all the Chris Foss stuff is first class TBH. If built correctly they all take a surprising amount of punishment...one reason they are such a long lasting model! Why not consider putting a post in the intro section, and then you get the proper full welcome pack! Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 19/10/2009 23:09:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Moore Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Thanks for the welcome and advice Timbo. Decisions, decisions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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