Ripmax WOT4 Mk2 ARTF chat

[DAVID CLIFFORD]

Nice one Mike,

Would like to know how it goes with the electric conversion and how you get around the battery instalation issue. Some pics please if poss.

 

Steven, I think this is a matter of personal prefferance. You wont want to fly anything else once you get the Texan airborne anyway mate.

 

I have been a scale man for a long time but i love this plane. it does everything you ask and comes back for more. The Black Horse "air" series are great and tested planes, many people swear by them, in fact Stuart was swearing just yesterday as he stuffed a brand new one into the pond after losing radio.

Edited By DAVID CLIFFORD on 09/10/2009 10:56:00

[Peter Jenkins]

I was flying a Kyosho Oxalys until my thumbs got the better of the aircraft!  Since the Oxalys is built to fly and is quite delicate in places, I decided that I'd add so much weight with a repair and probably end up with a bent fuselage so looked around for a replacement and saw the ARTF Wot 4.  The price was tempting and, when it arrived in my local model shop, raced down to pick one up.  It goes together very easily.  I think mine had a slight problem with the tail wheel wire in that it was too short for the wheel and the collet - despite lots of lock tite I lost the tailwheel on the third flight.  I have to commend the substantial cowling moulding - so much thicker than almost any other fibreglass cowl that has come my way.  The first flight was uneventful even though it was a gusty day.  Interestingly, it need quite a bit of up elevator trim and a tweak on the ailerons.  On the low rates recommended it felt very sluggish but full rates are much better although I think I'll need to add a bit more movement.  In comparison to the Oxalys (poor comparison I know) it feels much less like a thoroughbred but it does everything you want.  I think I'll more the CG aft from the stated value - which incidentally it balanced on by just moving the battery up to the forward bulkhead.  I think I'll also add some more decoration to the underside of the wing to help in orientation for when things get hectic!  I have found that the rudder has tremendous authority and generates tremendous roll from knife edge - i.e. from wings vertical, application of rudder will roll her wings level unless you feed in anti-rudder aileron - interesting!  All in all, especially for £89.99, it is exceptionally good value, flies extremely well and looks pretty good considering how long ago it was designed. 

[Mark Taylor 1]

Hi everybody, 

I'm new to this forum and new to r/c flying.  I bought a Wot 4 rtf kit last week and hope to maiden this weekend.  I have one question to the guys that have recently built one about the aileron servo connections.  When you take your wing off for transport/storage do you have to unplug yours from the receiver?  As I said, I am new to r/c flying but it just doesn't seem right to unplug/plug them into the receiver each time and it would have been better if the extensions remained in the receiver permanently and just unplug the extension from the servo lead instead but my servo leads do not reach the exit hole in the wing.  Are yours the same?  Is it okay to keep plugging/unplugging from the receiver?  Have I done something wrong?  

Thanks in advance for any help,

Mark  

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Hi Mark and welcome - a very good point.

 

It's sensible to have an extension lead in the receiver so, as you say, that way you're not stressing the receiver connection direct by continually plugging and unplugging - just connect and disconnect the extensions when taking the wing off. You may find that, with the Rx buried in foam or just a bit fiddly to get to, that this is more practical too.

 

Best to plug the ailerons into channels 1 and 6 (Futaba), enable flapperon, so you can then  independently adjust them at the Tx.  

Edited By David Ashby - RCME moderator on 13/10/2009 08:45:26

[DAVID CLIFFORD]

Hi Mark and welcome,

 

First you will need to plug extension leads to the servos and secure them using thread or small cable ties or something similar. you can buy holders for this as well.

You will then need a y lead or if you are using an AR500 2.4 Rx you can put two short extensions into each aileron plug, Personally a short Y lead is more practical.

Bury the Rx in foam and just leave the y lead accessible.

 

Click here to see what i mean.

You can get these from any good model shop.

 

again welcome.

D

[Mark Taylor 1]

David, 

Thanks for the quick reply.  

Do you mean I should buy two more extension leads to get around the problem?  Is it okay to have two extensions between each servo and the receiver?  At the moment I have a 300mm extension as per the instructions.  

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Yup, get a couple of short ones, that'll be fine

[DAVID CLIFFORD]

Absolutely, two 100mm from aileron servos to Rx then a short y lead

Simples

 

D

[Mike Phillips]

 The motor I am putting in is a Turnigy equivalent to the AX I 4120 14 shown in Chris Foss's drawing on his site

 

The motor is shown as bolting straight  onto the firewall Do you think I am going to need to   put a bit of down force in to offset the power which this motor has or see how it goes with it bolted straight on horizontal to the firewall

 

Any comments would be appreciated

 

Mike

[Graeme Evans]

the firewall isn't square, it's a couple of degrees offset already. Unless electric is different (don't think so) you should use a square bracket. 

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Graeme

 

I am converting the model to electric so it will be the same model 

 

cant see any offset downward or to right. on the firewall although 2 degrees in not much i suppose  my son  cant see anything either

 

so thinking about  putting a couple of thin washers under the top two holes of the engine mounting bracket 

 

 

 

Mike 

Edited By Phil Wood - Moderator on 13/10/2009 20:05:12

[weasel]

    hello i am intrested in buying a wot 4 artf, to replace my sunday hack of the black horse twister. would the plane be ok, to fit a 4 stroke engine or would it look out of place. i have a new sc70fs looking for a home. will this engine be sufficient.

 

    regards weasel..............

[Graeme Evans]

I'm sure it'd go brilliantly

[Graeme Evans]

the kit version lists .40 - .90 4 stroke

The Artf isn't all that different, looks like Ripmax have been lazy not recommending 4 stroke engine sizes. 

[weasel]

 

   thanks graeme,  thats champion, will order a kit first thing the morn.

 

    cheers weasel.........   keeping the fire lit...

 

[DAVID CLIFFORD]

Hi Weasel good to see you again,

How did you get on with the charger?

I bought this to replace my twister as well and i have no regrets at all.

 

This plane will go great with the 70 in it, sound real good too.

Mike, the thrust angle is set in the firewall so just bolt it straight on. just make sure the distance from wall to prop adaptor is the same as in the instructions for an I.C.

 

I must humbly offer a confession at this point and beg forgivness to all when i said i felt the ones putting an Irvine 53 in the model would rip the wings off.

I currently have an O.S 46LA in mine and it goes well. A member of the club brought his down for a maiden over the weekend with the 53 in it and i was visibly impressed with the performance, so much so that i have visited leeds model shop today and purchased one for my WOT 4!

 

Heres to having more power

 

D

[Mike Phillips]

 As i believe this model can float , and I am going to have to land it in a field surrounded by trees  flaperons seem a good idea

 

On gliders I have had the ailerons go upwards when flaps are employed  but I believe they can also go downwards. Any recommendations for this please

 

thanks

 

Mike 

[Tim Mackey]

If it floats on and you want to stop it short, then spoilers ( spoilerons ) may be better.

This is aper your gliders where the control surfaces both deflect UP which act as both braking by increasing drag, and laso reduces lift of the wing due to changing its camber shape to reflex instead. Using flaps may just keep it floating on even longer

Beware, some models exhibit starange behaviour when set up with flapperons or spoilerons on wings with full length strip ailerons...and I tried both methods on my electric WOT 4 and it didnt like it

TBH, unless you have really tricky landing areas, your best off just practicing throttle and elevator management  and proper base leg turns at the right spot and height.

Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 15/10/2009 15:58:22

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Timbo

 

thanks for your info  will try as you suggest 

 

Nice to hear from you again   you assisted me previously with a Cularis 

 

 

Mike 

[Tim Mackey]

Sorry, Mike, I just cant t remeber everything /everyone - its an age thing

[Mike Phillips]

You are not alone!!

 

Mike 

 

 

 

[Acrowot0]

      well said Timbo

[Bob Moore]

hello,

 

I'm a newbie to this forum.  Don't know if this is the right place, but the  Wot 4 mk 3 seems that new that I can't find a lot of info on it?

 

I'm also thinking of buying a Wot 4 mk 3, though am also considering the Wot trainer?  (I hate making decisions!)  I've seen threads that suggest that there are plenty of good alternatives around?

 

From what (wot?) I can see the Wot trainer is more of a trainer, heavier, well constructed, more dihedral?  (I had a chance to look at the kit)  and the Wot 4 mk 3 is more aerobatic, not a trainer as such. (Haven't seen the kit or construction.)

 

At the moment I fly one of Stan Yeo's (Phoenix Models) old Peppi trainers that I have self-modified with ailerons, and occasionally, when I feel brave enough, fly a Stan Yeo Kerfuffle with an MDS 40, his low wing aerobatic model., which I'm told can be a handful unless throttled well back.  And I find it a bit scary at times.

 

Mostly lately I can get into our little strip ok with my Peppi trainer and do the odd roll and loop.  Fortunately Stan's planes happily accept the odd bad landing!

 

I'm thinking it's time to move on and I think the Wot 4 mk 3 is the way to go.  I was thinking of putting a 2 stroke 40 or 46 in it.  From what the ads say, it will fly slowly, float in if I want, or happily do basic aerobatics.

 

Q1.  The old Wot trainer looked pretty solid, the new Wot 4 MK 3 is lighter; will it take the odd bounce?

 

Q2.  Would this be a good next step for me?

 

Thanks in anticipation.

 

Bob

[Tim Mackey]

Hi Bob and welcome aboard. Either of the Wottys will do fine, and all the Chris Foss stuff is first class TBH. If built correctly they all take a surprising amount of punishment...one reason they are such a long lasting model!

Why not consider putting a post in the intro section, and then you get the proper full welcome pack!

Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 19/10/2009 23:09:49

[Bob Moore]

Thanks for the welcome and advice Timbo.

 

Decisions, decisions!