Trainer setting on FF7

[Richard Putnam]

Hi,

I have recently bought a FF7 35 MHz  second hand (T7CP)

I am a club instructor so using the trainer mode is a necessity.

I am buddying a Futaba T6EXA with the FF7.

I have set only one channel on the FF7 to Trainer mode , yet I cannot

switch to the buddy TX. ( the trainer settings are set to "F").

 

Whilst on the subject of FF7 I cannot make the Throttle cut either!

 

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

kairos.

[John Privett]

I have both 2.4 and 35MHz versions of the FF7. 

 

I've never tried the trainer functionality on either - however I do recall somebody (maybe on another forum?) mentioning buddy box problems with a Futaba radio that turned out to be a fault on the transmitter.  I'll post more if I can find the details!

 

As for the throttle cut,  it works fine on both my FF7s - setup on switch H.

[Barry Finn]

 I too am having trouble with my T7C buddy switch, my son and i went to the field the other day and found someone to buddy him but for some reason my tx will no longer act as master, the only way that we could get the buddy to work was to re-bind my trainer to the donor tx. It is all rather strange as both me and my lad have used my tx as master on many occasions before and i have not changed any of the settings.

 When I spoke to Ripmax  they seem to think it is the lead but then surely when we swapped it around (spare tx as master) it still should not of worked.

 Anyone with suggestion I would greatly appreciate it as obviously the lad wants to fly.

[Richard Putnam]

Hi Barry,

I am sure by the sound of your mail that you are conversant with the FF7 but just a few checks.

• FF7 will only work as a trainer with other modern Futaba Transmitters.
• Make sure the trainer facility is turned on. It will read "on" or "off" don’t forget INH is switch inhibited (not in use). On & off confused me for ages it is just the switch position. Both positions are active.
• Adjustability- when the trainer switch is "ON" I find the best setting is "F" any mixing is then controlled by the instructor. (Any mix buried deep in the donor transmitter can really screw things up).
• Make sure the donor transmitter is set to PPM.
• Have another look at the manual . Setting up the trainer facility is quite complicated and I found that missing one simple step , had me to scratching my head for ages. If you haven’t got a manual it can be downloaded from Futaba.

I am probably telling you how to suck eggs but I know it took me quite a time to come to terms with all the intricacies of the FF7. Good luck and if you want any more help just shout.

Richard.

[email protected].

[Ian W]

Hi Richard,

 

 I am new to modelling and have been researching the 6EX & FF7 recently.  Im pretty sure I read somewhere that if you use the square to round lead connection between the 6EX & FF7 its causes probems and can cause units to malfunction?  Don't know if thats any help here but If I can find the link I'll post it. Cheers, Ian. 

[Richard Putnam]

hi Ian,

Thanks for the reply, I am getting the knack of the FF7 now and have solved most of my problems. Actually the plugs for the 6EX and the FF7 are the same so there is no problem with the plugs.But I do know you cant mix the older (Non computer) radios with the later computer models. Hmm try again. You can use an older radio as a slave  but you can't use a new radio as a slave to a  an old radio .Phew!!

 

Good luck . Itsa great hobby.

Richard.

[Ian W]

Hi Richard,

 

Yes I agree its a great hobby, im loving the building part of it anyway.  I am stuck between the Spektrum 6 or the Futaba 6EX or do I push the boat out and go for the FF7?  The FF7 with Digital Servo's is very very tempting indeed

 

Like this forum too, getting some great help and advice.

 

All the best, Ian.

[Richard Putnam]

Hi Ian,

I have a 6EX and it is a good radio, I moved on to the FF7 because I needed more model memories and also I was starting to train people and needed the training options. I am also sticking to 35 MHz for the time being as the receivers for 2.4 GHz are so expensive. ( but saying that if I was just starting out  now I would probably go for 2.4 GHz ).Spectrum seems to have a good following but I don’t know much about them. I don’t think you will go far wrong with any of the main manufacturers of computer radios.

 

Let me know how you get on .Good luck.

Oh, what  type of aeroplanes do you envisage flying  IC ,Electric ,ARTF or building from plans?

Richard.

 

 

 

[Ian W]

Hi Richard,

 

I am in the process of building a Telemaster 40 from a kit (http://www.s242438893.websitehome.co.uk/index.html).

Built up wings with Ribs etc, I have just finished the basic wing construction and they are about ready for covering, thats why im looking at Transmitter/receivers etc.  It has a 72" wing span which is one piece so I want to fix servo leads extensions in place before covering.  I cant make my mind up on engine.  I was going electric but the local model shop guy said cost is very high compaired to IC, decisions decisions eh!

 

Cheers

Ian

[Tim Mackey]

Not wanting to "spark" the old electric V IC debate, I would beg to disagree on that.

With the budget gear available these dyas, I have shown many people on this forum that electric powertrain can often work out considerably less than IC .

Inded only in the last hour or so, I linked to components for a guy wanting to go electric on a 5lb Tiggy Moth, and he was pleasantly surprised that the whole powertrain cost far less than a good four stroke equivalent.

Ill wager a small bet that I could probably do the same for your .40 sized Tele

[Ian W]

Oh please do Timbo, id much rather go electric, quieter, cleaner etc.

 

Telemaster 40

72" wingspan

Finished weight 6.5 to 7lb

Prefer safety & reliability over cost

I would prefer an excess of power just to be safe too

 

Cheers

Ian

[Tim Mackey]

In fact heres the very thread I mentioned...and the setup would probably be OK in your tele.

An even cheaper motor could also work well in that model such as this here which has a  higher Kv and would be OK on the tele with say a 12 or 13" prop.

This would probably get your entire powertrain down to below £70.

I hate to say it, but many model shops are way behind on their knowledgebase when it comes to electric flight.

Edited By Timbo - Administrator on 16/12/2009 23:08:22

[Tim Mackey]

We crossed posts there Ian.... and having now seen your desire for excess power, the budget may need to increase a little, but if you look at the thread i linked to, you will get the idea. I still reckon £100 absolutely tops will easily get the tele leccyfied

You want a setup - let me know before I hit the pillow. We mods get tired quickly

[Garry Pollard]

Hi Ian W

I have one of these motors powering a Speed Air and another powering a Pulse XT 40, both are about 5 to 6 lb in weight and are very quick so I must agree with Timbo that the set up would be OK, in fact I think it was Timbo who put me on to these motors

Garry

[Ian W]

Thanks Tim,

 

isnt it the battery packs that are expensive though?  It was suggested I consider going too 750/800watt & 70amp speed controller + 2 or 3 sets of batteries to give me some chance of airtime while charging etc?

 

Cheers

Ian

[Ian W]

Thanks Garry, Leccy it is then... just the battery cost and what to go for?  Confusing this electric stuff

[Garry Pollard]

Hi Ian

Once again Giant Cod for the lipos. I have a couple of 4300mah Loong lipos which I believe were £38 each but have now gone on to 4000mah 5C yes 5C at £34 each and they give me up to 10 mins mixed flying with all the airobatics done from level flight, ie dont need to dive to get speed up

Garry

[Tim Mackey]

This depends largely on your charger. The new generation Lipos from GC ( as in the link ) can be charged at 5C which effectively means 1 hour divided by 5 which is 12 minutes.

Allowing for losses and headroom etc, lets call it 15 minutes. This means you could get away with one battery.

Alternatively, for a little more money, you could use LiFePO4 cells ( sometimes called A123 cells ) which can be charged in situ, and also in about 15 minutes.

As to cost, well for 700 watts which I suggest would be plenty for the style of model under discussion, you could get this from a 4s Lipo easily enough.

700 watts / 14Volts = 50A - which is do-able.

A 5000 mahr pack at 50A would last 6 minutes at full throttle so for normal flying expect more loike 8 minutes. This 5C charge 4s pack here is approx £50

[Tim Mackey]

I think you need to make a proper assesment of the power you will require, which depends on style of model, as well as your flying style.... it is surprisng just how little is actually needed to maintain flight once the hard work of getting her airborne is done.

For that type of model, at 7lb AUW, I still reckon you would get away with closer to 80 Watt per lb. 7 X 80 = 560.........so lets compromise a little and say 600 watt.

Also, it would help if you told us what YOU would be happy to spend for a real good setup.

[Ian W]

Thanks chaps, to be honest most of the electric world is double dutch to me at the moment.  I think i'll have do do a lot more reading and try and educate myself a little better

 

Cheers, Ian

[Ian W]

I was thinking around £150 - £200 (ish) Timbo? 

[Tim Mackey]

I think to be fair, we are off topic and have hijacked the OP! Suffice to say, that if you wish to persue this project, and have that sort of budget, then we can definately sort you out with something just fine.

Once you have read up a little more, by all means make another posting over in the leccy section, and well get you up and away....cleanly and quietly

[Ian W]

Yes, quite right Timbo, Sorry Richard, didnt mean to hijack your posting.  I have just found your Leccy for beginners post Timbo, so im reading away... I'll catch up with you soon for help, cheers, Ian.

[Tim Mackey]