propogandhi Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Thats better Danny, she gone from an A to and A+ model with a PHD. But yes, she's really looking great and the screw head effect on the cowl etc works very well sir. prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Excellent Danny...must try something like this on the camel hatches which I have to make somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 26, 2009 Author Share Posted September 26, 2009 Thanks guys, it really makes me feel great to get such positive feedback from two esteemed modellers Really looking forward to seeing and hearing the Camel Tim. Stuart have you tried this Aluclad stuff yet on your Maggy? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 My dad's split tasil pup weighs 8lb apparently, got to fly it today, da put a smaller prop to reduce the current drain, still goes vertical!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Hi Danny, I've been watching your reconstruction of the Pup with great interest, first class job! Regarding the "AluClad" you used, where do you get it from as I've tried all the obvious places? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 27, 2009 Author Share Posted September 27, 2009 Thanks Doug, its quite sattisfying taking something that was really scrap and making it "well" again. I got my Aluclad a couple of years ago from Sussex model Centre, I dare say others may sell it too, it is a std Flair product. http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=22071 It is £5:30 for a 1' x 2' so it isn't cheap. There is another product very similar called Flite Metal, I am unsure of the price on that. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Richards Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 DeletedEdited By Bruce Richards on 27/09/2009 09:04:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Got it, cheers Danny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Campbell Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Posted by Richard Wood on 23/09/2009 10:20:23: Hi Danny, I got one from Scoonie Hobbies in Fife 3 or 4 years ago. A quick Google shows one at Maplin & a few other suppliers. I just can't remember if this is the same type as mine - it must be early senility! Will check the tool box when I get home! I agree that it's only worth doing if you have a stock of colours. £13 odd for a new roll of Solartex just for roundels ain't making sense! A few scraps of white, red & blue could find a better destination than the bin though! Cheers Richard I've been seeing this name popping up in threads all over the forum and thought, that rings a bell!!! So it should, he's in my club. Talk about being slow on the uptake....... Hi Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Campbell Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Danny, how did you get the colour seperation on the fuz?, is it two different solartex colours, or have you sprayed the olive drab over the antique? If you did spray it, how did you get on with paint creeping under the tape because of the weave of the tex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 27, 2009 Author Share Posted September 27, 2009 Hi Tony, the owner wanted me to do this one with two shades of solartex to seperate the colours, I don't like doing that as it takes longer and is more difficult but its his model. So in this case I used Solartex. However i have struggled with this same issue of paint getting under the tape via the weave. it was cured completely by using Tamiya masking tape, brilliant stuff no bleed between the plain white and bright red of a triplane. The whit areas are plain white solartex and the red is paint. No bleed at all. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Cracking job you've made on the puppeteer Danny - that metalwork looks excellent. Tamiya masking tape is great - it always gives a nice sharp line. I've found standard masking tape often results in a fuzzy edge. It's ok for clamping while glueing but you've got to be careful you don't damage veneer with it when holding down LEs & TEs etc. The Baronette is a superb model too Danny - lovely finish I recently had good results spraying until 'one last coat' brought up the dregs from the paint & sprayed nasty looking 'bits' on the model! A quick rub down later & another coat fixed it. Hi Tony mate - how's the Magnatilla going? Cheers, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Looks superb Danny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Thanks Richard and Timbo. Thomas the "triplane" looks good for Camel fodder eh? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emil Benson Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 hi Danny, superb job I am painting an extra 300 . I know a long way of getting a nice paint scheme with masking tape but it takes such a long time! I might use Tamiya masking masking tape in future if it works well Emil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hi Emil and thanks, Once you have used the Tamiya you won't use anything else. not for good bits anyway. I have also succumbed to the good 3M tape and it too is nice to use, however i haven't given it the Solartex test yet. Cheers and good luck with the Extra, any pics? Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Campbell Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Posted by Richard Wood on 28/09/2009 10:26:19: Hi Tony mate - how's the Magnatilla going? Cheers, Richard Its going great. Got the fuz all but finished, along with the tailplane and elevators. Tomorrow will be squaring away all the little bits of the fuz including the fin and then its onto the wings!!!. Certainly a quick build kit!! These flair kits are fantastic aren't they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 You know its really great to see so many are still building, its restoring my faith in aeromodelling Cheers Tony and Richard but we need some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Here's my old Mk1 Magnatilla & Junior Attila checking for weeds. Both electric power. They're great kits to build - must build another Flair model soon. Here's the latest build - a SIG Kobra trying to be a red arrow! This was a nice build too, will try the King Kobra some day soon. Building kits gets to be addictive! Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 They look great Richard, yes a good bit of balsa bashing, can't beat it lol Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Campbell Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 mmmmm !!, that Sig Cobra looks nice. Looking forward to seeing that one fly. Have you used the same motor etc, that you have in the Wot4? I really like the look of some of the Sig range, pricey, but really nice stuff. Got the undercarriage for the Magnatilla soldered up tonight. Thats been the fiddliest (is that even a word???) part of the build so far. It took a fair bit of time to get everything to line up and stay lined up while I got the solder on. Its not perfect, but I think it'll do. I quite fancy doing the same colour scheme as on the puppeteer, that olive drab and antique looks great and the red, white and blue on the tail just sets it off perfectly. Hope you don't mind me stealing it Danny? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Hey Tony, absolutely you carry on, its the colors that the Navy used during WWI. The red white and blue are under the elevator as well. If i was doing another i wouldn't use antique, its very transparent, linen is the same color but more opaque. I got it wrong.... Of course if you want to see the detail under the surface thats fine but it also shows the pencil reference lines etc.... Olive drab Flair Spectrum paint by the way matches solartex Olive Drab As for lining and holding undercarriage while soldering, I have found a simple way to hold it alligned: Two scrap bits of ply and G clamps hold the wire still so you can wrap and solder without it moving Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propogandhi Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Danny I think the antique looks very nice. In fact if I had the choice to cover my Maggy again I'd go for it over the linen. Anyway look forward to hearing more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Thanks Danny, Tony, It's a new motor in the Kobra - a Wasp 1250kV 450Watter. Just got the Wasp 60A esc today so will fiddle around with props to try for 450W on a 3s 3200 Lipo. That'll give around 130W/lb as the model weighs 3lb 6oz rtf. Maybe this weekend for the maiden! I found the Magnatilla u/c soldering fiddly as well. I don't think the wire was squeaky clean before I started as it came adrift after a couple of outings. Your solution looks like the best way to hold it all Danny. Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Campbell Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Lol..... I tried all sorts to hold that undercarriage in place while soldering. Never thought of using scraps of wood and a couple of clamps. It all looks so obvious now. Ah well, you live and learn. I should have got my mate and forum member Andy Pickford to sort something out..... he's an RAF turbine techy/sooty guy. They can bodge anything up so he says. The RAF flys on duck tape apparently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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