batcho99 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I have an Enya 60 4c which is going into my flair pup. I need a greater angle on the exhaust manifold pipe so I can exit the exhaust through the bottom of the fuse. Any ideas on bending it slightly without kinking the pipe of breaking it? Thanks, Iain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonSpencerUK Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Hi Iain What is the pipe made from, and by how much do you need to bend it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Batch 99, If it is the original header pipe,cut a V notch in it with a hacksaw , bend it to your requirements and then silver solder over the joint. I have done this a few times and never had a problem. Jim Edited By Jim Carss on 17/09/2009 14:10:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Fill it with molten lead, allow to cool, bend slightly and then melt the lead out. Alternatively, Just Engines do a seired=s of angled threaded elbows for just the same job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 JE do sell them, but at about £20 each, which strikes me as being very (very very) expensive for a component that seems like it should cost pennies (well OK, a couple of quid). Flexible pipes seem just as over priced. The lead idea is a good one. I haven't tried it, but I have a spring bought from B&Q for bending copper plumbing pipe, and I often wondered if that would do the job. Anything involving silver soldering doesn't agree with me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbasP Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I understand what your saying Andy, but the thing is for a company to produce the pipe they have tooling and set up costs, I used to make pipe bending tooling for David hearts Pipes (aerospace) in Downton, some of the prices would chill you 2K for a 3/4" 16 SWG seamless Ti tube with one slight bend and two small holes in it!!!!! I dont think for £20 there really going to be rolling in profit after taking out tooling, new cnc machined parts and labour etc, and the small volume demands a higher unit price. the spring is a good idea, but has to be a good fit in the bore, thats why its sold for pipe bending, the solder/lead idea would work but only few a small amount of bend, after that you'll snap the pipe becuase it cant "move", the inside of the bend needs to compress and the outside stretch to form it, hence the "spring" Eeeer, sorry wrong forum, thought I was on the machinery one i'll get my coat Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 OS used to sell a bendy exhaust extension-it came in two or three different length's-100mm/150mm and 200mm-if still avalable-this will solve your prob............. ken anderson.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Mick Reeves still do the bendy stuff. Iain,you need to come up North to Anderson land,we could do the job for you in 15 mins flat F O C 2% commission for Air vice marshal Anderson. Jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batcho99 Posted September 17, 2009 Author Share Posted September 17, 2009 I've had a look for spares online but cant find any for the enya forstroke series? Thats why i was going to attempt the bend. Its a funny size pipe not like os or saito. I'll pop a picture on here later when i get chance. Thanks for all the quick responses. Iain oh, edited. The bend i want is a nice smooth 90 degreeEdited By batcho99 on 17/09/2009 18:32:29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 sorry about that iain-think that is the way i would go if you can get your hands on some---if and when the martian's do land-j carss will be one of the first to be handed over in exchange for something usefull........ 'ss.. ken anderson..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Christopher Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Hi, I would cut the header pipe in half then join it with a piece of silocon(e) pipe, as long as it a tight fit and the silencer is braced/ held in place it may not any clamps etc on the silicon(e) and you can bend it whereever you like.... John-C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Ireland Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 There used to be a product called "Serabend" (not sure of the spelling) that was used in exactly the same way as Peter Miller suggested with lead. The main advantage was it would melt in boiling water. Just checked on 'tinternet, the product is called Cerrobend (melts at 70 degrees) and is still available in the UK.Edited By Doug Ireland on 18/09/2009 13:08:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Jordan Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Andy, What kind of problems do you have with silversoldering, I do quite a lot of it and maybe I could help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batcho99 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Silicone pipe is a good idea john. Cheers. I haven't got round to doing anything with it yet, the easier the better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I think it's mainly to do with getting the temperature hot enough. I spent a long time trying to silver solder a cut manifold onto some of Mick Reeves metal flexible exhaust pipe (trying to avoid spending the £25 a prebuilt one costs. With 4/5 roaring Bunsens we still only got a weak joint. I think the pipe was acting as quite an efficient heat sink & radiator. I was advised that silicon pipe is no good for a 4 stroke engine because of the very high exhaust gas temperatures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 If it is steel , take a blow torch heat it cherry red and bend or find your local "Model Engineering club" they make scale steam locomotives, I am sure you will find more help than you can shake a stick at.I have tried silicon pipe on 2t and 4t , it burns !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batcho99 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 I'll forget the silicon tube then! I'll check out some model engineering websites. Its a pity its a funny size pipe and not a standard plumbing size or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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