Jump to content

Air retracts - Help needed


Recommended Posts

Hi guys. I am in the process of fitting a set of retracts to my 120 sized Falcon (Bobcat) and I have a problem. The nose retract is from Eurokit and the mains are Spring Airs. The problem is that the nose reract has a larger diameter nipple and won't accept my Robart air lines.

Where can I get an adaptor and larger airline for this nose retract, so I can integrate it into my system?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


So JETSOME - we "meet" again.
Do I take it that this latest remark is another sarcastic dig at my "lack of experience / medalling " - further confirming your "suspicions" of me, or should I interpret it as a genuine softening of your hostility shown toward me in other threads?
I do hope it is the latter, as it is not the norm for me to fight with forum members.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shuan,
If you have the older style Eurokit (ie the screw clamp nipple rather than the RS push & lock) then you can use the robart tubing!. Just gently heat approx. the end (6mm) of the robart tubing with a lighter to soften and then 'force' this over the nipple. if doesn't work first time try again, you may need a couple of tries. Once on, screw the camping ring on and job done.......
Tony
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heave Ho Timbo At last there is a lathe out there! My head is spinning. Can you cut threads on it? (fine threads at that ?)My little AP.15 has a rear exhaust outlet & I would like an adaptor made to connect it to a muffler but I don't know what thread it is.
Do you realise you could start a new business ? Look at the response already!
Grumpy Myron
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shaun - if Tony 's idea does not work
( and I am sure it will ) if you send me a small piece of each of the tubings that you require coupling, I will see what I can do. I think from memory that my old robarts airline had an internal diameter of around 1.5mm, and this fitted onto a "barb" of about 1.8mm. If you have not got the new larger tubing that you require yet, then measure the barb on the larger nipple, and send me the dimensions. I have attached ( I hope ) a picture of the sort of thing we are aiming for, with, obviously, one side thicker than 'tother.
I apologise, but have forgotten what our other dealings were in the past….either you bought some retracts from me, or had one of my onboard glo units ? ( FBDay ) [IMG]http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/6366/imgp1849um3.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Myron and Aslan - Below is a photo of my lathe - it is a PEATOL also known in the USA as a TAIG. I have had it for about 20 years now, and apart from obviously replacing the 1/4" sized cutting tools from time to time, it has given good service. I am NOT an engineer by trade, and completely self taught the very limited skills I have acquired, by reading, and trial and error. I mainly turn aluminium, as it is easy to work with, and does not dull the tools as much as steel. I have added a few of the available accessories over the years, including the 4 jaw chuck, circular saw, milling attachment, and a few others.
I think I paid around £100 for mine back then, but it included a tailstock, which I think is now an extra ( essential really )
I am afraid Myron, that it does not have screwcutting, and any threading work I do, I use the sliding tailstock to hold a tap, and turn the chuck by hand, and for external threading, I have a die holder attachment, and use my conventional cutting dies, with the work going into either the headstock chuck or tailstock IYSWIM. As for starting a new business, 2 problems there....
1) I have not long ago taken early retirement form the rat race, and have NO desire at all to re-join it !
2) I am just not skilled enough to be able to work at a good speed, - jobs which a commercial firm could complete in an hour, would take me a least a day or two, accounting for the unsatisfactory first few off the run :).
I do tend to be a bit of a perfectionist I am afraid, and although not always achieving it - strive to do a first class job, which takes these ailing eyes a bit too long to be commercially viable !!

[IMG]http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/7958/latheoq6.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

http://www.peatol.com/

http://www.cartertools.com/specific.htm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shaun....apologies - yes of course it was both :)
Hope you are getting on OK with the onboard glo unit ?
I have done about 20 or so now for various folk, and the latest ones are happy on all radios, including 2.4Ghz, and both 4 cell and 6 cell receiver packs.
What did the YT retracts go in to ??
I finally finished the guns and lights job on my Spit ( piccy link below) but have been unable to fly her again since, due to this terrible weather :(
[IMG]http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/8963/gunsandlightsjb4.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The on board glow is now in my Phoenix Tucano, awaiting it's second flight. The retracts are going into my 120 sized Bobcat (Falcon 120 / KalmKat 120) as we speak. You going to Cosford?

Oh, and I tried heating the retract tubing like Tony N suggested and it worked a treat, so thanks everyone.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yet again many thanks Timbo,I'll go for one of those so.They seem reasonably priced.I like the idea of makin' and shapin' and I promise not to hound ye with questions......before I do some reading up on the subject first:) Enjoy Cosford (lucky sod)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Timbo.This has led me to a clark 300m which seems to have a better spec.Their figures are higher than the Unimat4.No idea what they mean to be honest,I just assume that if the "centre to centre" is greater then it must be better.There are other figures that seem logically better e.g. a lower variable speed,and so on.This is within my budget so it's looking good so far.Can't thank ye enough,maybe a virtual pint would suffice... glug glug glug,:)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A real one would be better :-)
Cenntre to Centre refers to the distance between the face of the chuck on the headstock - to the tailstock....so bigger number means you can fit in longer work.
However, many lathes ( mine included ) have a hollow shaft that the main chuck screws onto, and this means that if the work is not of a lrge diameter, it will often fit "through" the chuck jaws and right through the hollow spindle, meaning that really long work can be turned - very useful, and something I use a lot, as most of my turning is on fairly small diameter rod /bar-stock.The other main spec to watch for is the clearance height over the bed ( oo err missus ) IE the swing - this means the greater it is the larger the piece of work that can be accomodated in the chuck before it hits the lathe bed....which you really dont want to do !!
Most of these small hobby type lathes have a "centre height" of around 2" or so, meaning work of 4" can be accomodated IYSWIM. Finally, ensure that the cutting tools used in the toolpost are redily available, the PEATOL takes fairly UNCOMMON 1/4" square tools.
HTH
PS apologies to Shaun, we seem to have hijacked his thread about retracts !!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...