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Yak 23 build blog.....it begins.....


TonyS
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The Glass will quickly dull or even snap the razer blade, so i would use a coarse file such as an abrafile, and then as suggested....simply fill the resultant depression with spackle or even epoxy....after all weight is hardly a top priority if you have decided to glass the thing.
Certainly all is not lost Tony..... you can relatively easily salvage that.... no problem.
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Tony I'd be tempted to use a mix of A fine David Plane, Abrafile and a medium to fine sanding block.  The david plane would have to be on a 'fine setting or as Timbo says, the blade will snap.  Infill with resin and sand to smooth.
 
BB
 

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Hi Chaps,
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I've been "off air" today for two reasons. Firstly my cousin's 40th so I went to the pub and b) I was fed up with the glassing going wrong so a few hours was taken to regather myself for the repairs. 
On my return I removed all the glasscloth and I have to say it came off ridiculously easily. Not at all convinced about this Skin-crylic (or maybe it was SO full of air bubbles there was nothing holding it on  .
Anyway. To cheer myself up I took my Panther out for a fly around and, guess what - I totalled it. I simply couldn't understand how I managed to do it but I did. I decided to fly my Funjet as the Panther was destroyed and guess what - it won't work. Just not my day .
 Not sure what's going on with the Funjet - battery charged, control surfaces responsive, prop just stutters around at all throttle settings.
Two questions (and I know that I'm definitely off-topic but it's been a bad day so give me a break....)
Anyone know:
1) If there is a distributor for replacement airframes for the Starmax F-9F Panther in the UK please?
2)If there is a cheap airframe only EDF available to take a 64mm fan
3)What might be wrong with my Funjet...
 
Any info that might cheer me up would be very gratefully received..... 
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Sorry Guys,
I should have responded to all the suggestions instead of wallowing in self-pity  
Stephen, The glass cloth goes very stiff once it's been coated so pricking it is a non-starter. I did consider cutting it and epoxying it down but there were simply too many bubbles. 
Poly, I think that you did the right thing and kept on top of it as it dried. I think my biggest mistake was covering the wings then going to bed and expecting perfection in the am. I won't make that mistake again.
Tony and BB, I don't have a mini plane but I guess it may have worked as I've been using very lightweight cloth. I'd have happily invested in a few blades to fix it.
After having had reasonable success with the fuse I'll sand the wings off again, and give it another go. Don't worry Timbo I will not lose heart - stiff upper lip etc etc...
Results will be posted.
Thanks again everyone. 
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1) Go for the Lander Panther- You will never look back
2) Shop around the Airpower F-16 will be a cheap and good flier for a 64mm fan, there are many more out there! Just Hunt around, will let you know if there are any airframe only models going!
3)Dry soldering joints might be a problem,bent shaft, dodgy esc timing, look for obvious hardware connection 1st?
 
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Tony,
 
Seeing all the bubble make me think its no glasscloth your using but more something like nylon.
 
Glas will never work like that making bubbles, Nylon will do so because it will stretch when making it wet, glascloth will never stretch like that and will never leave bubbles.
 
Best is to sand the bubbles away and place some new clotch on the spot were the lose  cloth  is gone.
 
See it as a spot repair this will be your best option for all I know.
 
 
Ton
 
 
 
 
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Tony, sorry to hear about the bad day. I guess the F9F was pretty bad then? With the Funjet, could it be just one motor wire is not connected properly? Could be as simple as a loose connector. Hope you can get that sorted. If you have another suitable ESC I'd try switching that out to see if you can pin down the problem.
 
About the other forum where you can access a lot of expertise from the USA, it's http://www.rcgroups.com (-moderators, do remove the link if necessary!) I think a lot of people glass planes there. Worth searching the forums there before asking Q's though.
 
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Sorry but I do think that the material used by Tony is not Glass but Nylon or something like that.
 
Its really not difficult at all with the correct materials, looks like the shop has giving the wrong material.
 
Here are some pics of my YAK glassed with 25gram glas cloth and it looks totally differend from the material Tony is using.
 

 

 
 

Ton
 
 
 
 
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Right chaps,
A quick update.
Having dragged myself out of my depression, given myself a good talking to, and (downed a swift one or two for good measure) I'm back!
Wings stripped back and re-sanded.
This gave me a chance to do a bit more filling of areas that only showed once I'd glassed them. These have now been sanded back and are awaiting this evening's attentions.
The fuse was given around 6 coats of Skin-crylic, and was sanded back between coats 3 and 6 using 600 grit wet and dry (used dry). It goes on very easily but it took 4 coats before I got rid of the weave. The cloth I'm using isn't what I expected but it was supplied by Falcon Aviation who supplied the Skin-crylic so......
I sanded and re-filled using Model Lite then re-sanded first with 80 grit sandpaper (just to get the bulk out - it soon clogs the 600 grit if you don't). The wet and dry I wrap around a green kitchen scouring sponge which I use as a sanding block - works a treat on round sections!
The tail fin, stab and control surfaces I haven't glassed but have coated with Skin-crylic. This raised the grain so I then filled with Model Lite then sanded them back with the 600 grit. Great job.
Below is a pic after the first light coat of primer - this has highlighted a dodgy area around the cockpit which has been filled ready for re-sanding.
The battery hatch fits very snugly. I've decided to use two tiny hatch magnets and to get it off, have drilled a one millimeter hole in front and rear which takes a small wire key - like a mini manhole lifter.


And yes Dusty - it's a very nice model (now reduced at RBC kits to €99, a real bargain !! 
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Hi Everyone,
A little help please...
Can anyone suggest colours that might be suitable....
The final product needs to look like this..

I bought some green the other day but it now seems much too dark. I have the grey (the primer looks perfect and will suffice with a coat of matt laquer but the light blue/grey is also a puzzler..
Any suggestions gratefully received.
David, re the material, you might be right however I've used it now and having re-done the underside of the wings last night with a bubble-free finish I guess it was my application rather than the product. I never said I was good at this...... 
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What finish do you want (matt, satin or gloss) and do you want a particular type of paint? Humbrol number 3 (Brunswick Green) would be my first guess for colour, but it's gloss, which may not be what you're after. It's available in enamel or acrylic.
 
What kind of paint have you tried? Do bear in mind that the colour of the paint while liquid can be quite different from the dried finish, so try a sample.
 
I'm not convinced from the picture above that the grey primer is quite right. I'd have thought a light blue was the colour?
 
Glad you're getting better results on the covering now. It's all about learning really, isn't it? I'm having to figure out a lot as I go along too.
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Right.
I think Humbrol (Flair paints - plenty of hits from Google but even Flair's site doesn't give examples of the colours...?).
I wanted No's 125 and 128 for the underside but can't buy these in a spray can  and don't have an airbrush. I do have a can of Brunswick green for the top and it looks good (perhaps a touch too much blue but very close).
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Forgive me if im being a bit picky, but isn't the underside just one colour? It looks as though the artist has decided to put a shadow on the underside of the plane and under the wings/empennage.
 
Application wise, why don't you thin it down a bit and use a high quality brush. Have a look at Danny Fenton's old Sea Fury blog and you'll see what a great finish he got from a brush. Im loving the build so far, I've gotta get me an EDF some day! . . .
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Yes, the underside should be just one colour. Perhaps a mix of 65 and 128 would be perfect, but as you say, would require be best with airbrush. Do you know anyone with one that could give you a hand?
 
I've recently dug out the airbursh I used to use on plastic models but need to find a compressor. Seem very expensive!
 
I think you can get a pretty reasonable finish if you thin down and use a nice brush, as Ben says.
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Actually, you're quite right about the underside. Didn't spot that, but, I think it might look good in a kind of camo two grey kind of theme - Really useful if you're flying inverted at 250 ft over water.........any views....?

Edited By TonyS on 20/10/2009 23:08:45

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Heh, well, it would certainly be novel. I guess I'm a bit of a purist when it comes to scale models, mainly because I used to build airfix kids when I was a kid, but I suppose I can imagine it being hard to spot with the scale paint scheme, as that's what it's designed for!
 
On the other hand, the paint scheme that you've gone for appears to be a Yak 17 the giveaway being the nose wheel protruding when retracted, as far as I can tell from Google all Yak 23s were silver, so I guess there's no point being too purist about it.
 
I might be tempted to make up a fictional camo scheme or airshow scheme based on other russian designs if you don't like the plain blue-grey and green scheme, rather than go for silver.
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David,
you're quite right, I did pick a Yak 17 colour scheme.
I'm not a purist. Aircraft are designed to be hard to spot and that's not ideal when it comes to model flying. I'm interested in making something that looks great and is practical to fly. If I was to be too daft for example there is a splitter in the air inlet in the real Yak 23 but if I built that into the model it would play havoc with the airflow to the EDF  - thing is, how far do you go, pitot tubes, rivets, sliding canopy covers, etc etc - it's all down to individuals as to where they draw their particular 'line in the sand'.
If someone sees my plane and says - but that colour scheme isn't right, firstly I'd be genuinely impressed that they knew, then I'd direct them to RBC kits and tell them to make one of their own and paint it silver. 
I think the Yak 17 scheme is great for flying as a model but some darker grey underneath would certainly help in spotting it from the ground.I've had my fingers burnt in the past with accurate colour schemes - lost orientation and consequently lost the model..... It was definitely the colour and nothing to do with me being a rubbish pilot
 
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