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Building the Nijhuis Lysander


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Someone earlier mentioned that he though I had the lightest build of those in this thread. But bear in mind that my weight-saving wasn't in the build per se, but in the covering: Because I'm using electric power I feel there's less stresses on the airframe, so I used Solite instead of Solarfilm or Solartex. And because I'm using the Shuttleworth colour scheme -- all black -- I didn't apply any paint other than the lettering and roundels.

Apart from the wing itself, the vast majority of the covering material is aft of the centre of gravity, so heavy covering -- even if it only results in an extra few grammes at the tail -- can also result in the need for ballast at the front.

Edit:  I've just checked the weights, and Solite is listed as 18-22 grammes per square metre, with Oratex UL600 at 120 "grams per meter" -- presumably square metresSolartex is 85-98 grammes per square metre, then add the paint ....

Edited By Allan Bennett on 17/04/2013 08:21:02

Edited By Allan Bennett on 17/04/2013 08:25:05

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  • 6 months later...

I've finally made a start. I've been collecting parts for nearly two years.

I decided that it would be best (whilst it' still in the "sprue" to make all the holes needed in the firewall.

Drilling for the engine mount proved to be no problem and captive nuts fitted and epoxied into place.

Additional holes for the fuel pipes and the battery lead were also easily drilled.

Last of all, the hole for the throttle cable, the position was easily achieved by fixing the engine mount and the engine (SC 52) to the firewall. Then stripping it all back again for the drilling. It's then I discover that there is insufficient room for the metal clevis I had planned to use.

I'm guessing that most have gone for a Z bend, but has anyone done anything different ?
I would like the have the opportunity for adjustment at both ends.

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  • 1 year later...

Well after what seems years (it has been) my Lizze has taken to the air. The bench run SC52FS had enough power to fly the 7.lbs Lysander. With a 11x7 3 blade prop and Covered in solatex. It need no trim but I think it is slightly nose heavy. I put the 5 cell AA pack through the firewall and covered the spats and cowl in 1/2 oz glass cloth to add strength ( and weight). Regards HughP. smileyThanks TN

.lysander maiden_024.jpglysander maiden_033.jpg

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  • 4 years later...

Hi, my 'testing' post in this thread disappeared without explanation... so trying again.

I've had this kit for 9 years and finally I'm starting on her properly this weekend.

The information in this thread regarding the wings, battery position, control options etc. are invaluable.

Interested to see if Terry W, Super Mario, Crashalot, Mad Hatter or any of the other previous builders are still hanging around?

Cheers

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Heh. Thought I would give someone a shock.

Electric. I got the 4-Max stuff at the same time I bought the wood pack, all the plastic, servos, brass, aluminium, carbon fibre... the lot is just sitting here. Just need a battery, covering, wheels and some fixings. I think I'll go full Terry W for the engineering - removable cowl with extended motor box/battery and canopy.

Also intend on some lights which may be useful in a grey day with it being all black.

I'm doing MAB cos it's the girlfriends initials... keeps the weight down with the one colour covering I suppose.

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Page 39 originally coollaugh I spent 3 evenings going through this amazing thread and indexed it in MS OneNote.

OneNote

I saw your tray originally back in 2010 and completely misinterpreted it. I thought the battery lay flat and the pic showed the tray pulled half up with the tab! Figured out the other day it stays at that angle and another post mentions the access hatch in the top but no pics of that though.

The main reason my build stalled back then was I couldn't figure out a battery position I was happy with. I'm very tempted by Terry W's pull out assembly although the bolts will add weight. Not 100% sure yet. If I go with TW's, I need take 3mm off the thickness of the firewall cos I already glued it on and he said he would use 3 x 3mm in retrospect. Still need to factor in an engine mount too.

Starting with the wings on the weekend I expect.

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Posted by playtime222 on 20/06/2019 22:52

I saw your tray originally back in 2010 and completely misinterpreted it. I thought the battery lay flat and the pic showed the tray pulled half up with the tab! Figured out the other day it stays at that angle and another post mentions the access hatch in the top but no pics of that though.

The main reason my build stalled back then was I couldn't figure out a battery position I was happy with. I'm very tempted by Terry W's pull out assembly although the bolts will add weight. Not 100% sure yet. If I go with TW's, I need take 3mm off the thickness of the firewall cos I already glued it on and he said he would use 3 x 3mm in retrospect. Still need to factor in an engine mount too.

Starting with the wings on the weekend I expect.

Yes, I don't have a tray per se, simply a fixed box going down at about 45 degree angle. It's sized to take a 5S A123 pack but I know that a 4S 3200mAh LiPo pack will fit in the same space and be the same weight. The Velcro tab is to hold the battery snugly once inserted. Sorry, I'm not at home at the moment, so can't photograph the hatch for you.

As I mentioned in one of my posts, I had to install ballast in the cowl, so I doubt if extra weight forward of the c of g is going to be too much of a problem.

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The obvious aim is to go for the least ballast possible - you had the lightest build of those I have weights for - 2.47kg (5lbs7oz old money) - even with ballast, so you must have done something right!

Looking at some available 4S LiPos, all of them will fit into 160 x 50 x 50 mm. I can't quite do a vertical battery behind the engine - even the smallest is 139 and the inner radius of the cowl is 140. Mounting it at an angle like yours will let it fit in there and is also a good way of getting the mass further away from the c/g too. On the other hand, it may put it too far forward and be a complete waste of time! Haha.

A quick release Terry-style cowl has the advantage of not having to break up the cowl with a hatch. So very interesting in the offer of a pic or two. No rush. I am a very slow builder and will not get to the fuselage for months yet.

Even though I have the wood pack, I'm going to thin down the stab ribs and build up a fin instead of using the block balsa. I'll hollow out the tail cap a bit if I can too.

This will help balance up some scale features like a decent tailwheel (steerable?), the robart hinging, interior actuators, ladder, maybe passenger figures. Yeah, I know, 'More than I can chew?' wink This is likely to be my only build for a while so I'm having a go at some challenging techniques.

Edited By playtime222 on 21/06/2019 23:17:32

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Wow! Nice to see this one back, I finished mine, and painted up as a target tug, I reduced the weight of the fin by drilling holes throught it with holesaw. I immediatley replaced the weight by making the tailwheel steerable. Sadly, its still not left the ground.

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Nice to see a few of you still around too :D Yeah, that fin is a brick. Going to build mine up. Also thinking about making the tail wheel steerable.

Managed to find a slot in a local flying club last night too. I'll be taking the Magister up for a refresher on Valkenberg next week. The facilities there are amazing. Great people, huge workshop, plenty of storage and a bloody huge field to fly on.

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