Percival Mew Gull

[Graham Ashby (Editor)]

Hi Les, yes, mine has the cast alloy mounting blocks like yours. I chose a very simplistic approach to canting the legs forward. Basically, all I did was slot a piece of plastic card (I can let you know the thickness if you'd like?) between the rear flange of the mounting block and the u/c bearer. I also had to trim the spats very slightly on the lower leading edge to clear the wheels and, just for good measure, I bent the tail wheel wire just a tad to lower the tail end. The tail is still a little lighter on the ground than I'd like but it's manageable on our short grass strip.

[Alan Cantwell]

AHA!!!  now then, you didnt say yours had the better undercart oh bossman,       here we all are, wondering what you did special, to not rip out the poxy bit of wire, and you have what is, in fact, the original version,      hope you get much more flying out of yours than mine is getting!!!!    lost all interest in it,      i know as soon as i fly it, death will occur under the wing,    shame to spoil it!!

[Nick Brotherton]

Thats sounds good Graham, I also have one of the earlier versions with the alloy block.

I was considering selling it as new in box but now I'm tempted to give it a go. its a beautiful looking plane and its a shame for it to be sat in the loft.

 

I will report back and look forward to the full review.

[Graham Ashby (Editor)]

Alan, I can understand your reservations regarding the undercarriage but since I don't have the same version it's difficult for me to make informed comment. I may yet try and source another wing (the latest version), and fly the model with that. Wheels aside, the four flights I've had so far have at least given me valuable information about the ground handling and flying / stall characteristics. As I say, I need more stick time on the model before writing, particularly as the engine is still running a bit rich.

 

Nick, it appears to me that one or two things are crucial here:

 

1. C of G. I set mine as per instructions (because I had to) and it appears to be okay. That said, I still need to make my mind up about elevator movement, i.e. whether to increase it.

2. Wheel position. With the C of G as recommended, these definitely need to be canted forward to improve ground handling.

3. You need a strip with good, short grass.

4. You need to be a confident flyer. From what I can tell the model won't take prisoners while you're practicing how to land it or getting used to its characteristics. Take-off is a piece of cake but it needs to be flown in and put down nicely. This, I think, is partly due to the amount of drag that's generated by the undercarriage but, as I say, more assessment is required.

Edited By Graham Ashby (RCM&E) on 27/05/2010 10:34:59

Edited By Graham Ashby (RCM&E) on 27/05/2010 10:37:47

Edited By Graham Ashby (RCM&E) on 27/05/2010 23:02:48

[Nick Brotherton]

Thanks Graham, I am not a newbee but also not too confident with my landings.

Having said that I am flying several semi scale H9 models that tend to nose over on landing so maybe I will be OK if I get in more practice!

 

How much did you adjust the u/c?

We fly off tarmac so perhaps that will be easier, although less forgiving if i get it wrong!   

[Graham Ashby (Editor)]

I don't think you'll have a problem flying the model Nick, to be honest I think it's a pretty forgiving aeroplane, I just think that to avoid superficial damage you need to be pretty comfortable about your ability to land gently each and every time. At the end of the day, if you can get your warbirds in without stressing / bending the undercarriage or having them bounce down the runway, you should be fine. Definitely, the model will be easier to get away on tarmac, although if it does nose over that cowl will really suffer!

 

I'll measure the position of my wheels in relation to the leading edge and let you know. Meanwhile, the pic attached will give you a rough idea of how much spat has been removed to clear the wheel.

 

[Les Holloway]

Thanks, Graham, for tip re plastic card under mounting block. Now I think about it, I have some hard plastic thrust wedges which would be just the job - I reckon about 3mm would be right to move the wheels forward.

Edited By Les Holloway on 30/05/2010 18:25:10

[Leon Taylor]

After 20 flights with my Mew Gull which is now handling properly I have made the following essential  mods. -

Wheel axles are positioned forward of the wing leading edge

Torsion bar u/c made from 5mm dia piano wire with 7 inch horizontal runs to  wing root anchorages, then fitted with the oleo legs to give adequate springing and prevent wing damage

Engine down thrust reduced to zero.

These changes eliminate the tipping forward problem on taxying and landing

The ailerons are set 3mm up to give washout and reduce tip stalling

The  engine  air intake was doubled in area to cool the in-cowl engine with exhaust exit three times that

The area of the elevators increased by 50% to make them effective at low speed

 

The stalling speed is high and three point landings should not be attempted. This is a model for an experienced flier

 

 

[Nick Brotherton]

So Leon, you decided to sell it then?

Any particular reason why? 

 

Nick

[Leon Taylor]

Hi Nick-Now it`s sorted and I have flown it a lot I want to move on to something that flies slower and is suitable for circuits and bumps. Fast passes down the strip don`t satsfy me

A well sorted Mew Gull for ninety quid is a snip I`m sure you would agree.  Leon

[Kelly]

Hi Graham,

 

Nice one

 

I will be having a close look at the U/C on my Dewoitina before I start putting it together

 

Kelvin

[Graham Ashby (Editor)]

Hi Kelvin,

 

Sounds sensible. The u/c certainly seems to be the main issue with the latest batch of kits. 

 

 

[Kelly]

Still it has to be better than the U/C on my Hanger 9 P-40

[Peter Rubock]

Hello All,

                I have been following the posts on the Mew Gull with some apprehension. Mine has been ready to go for some time but last week all excuses were used up, so off to the field on a good day. No worry about nosing over but before flying speed was reached the right undercarriage leg folded back about 45 degrees. This is a smooth grass strip. So if your undercarriage lasted to the landing stage you were lucky. I now have to cut into the wings to make a proper anchor for the wire legs. Might not happen for a while.. Not happy.

Peter

[Stephen Grigg]

That really is not acceptable Peter

[Nick Brotherton]

Hi Peter,

Sorry to hear that, very frustrating. Is your's the new torsion wire u/c or the old strut and block type? Why did they change it thats what I want to know, and did they test both versions properly before they released the model onto the market? I guess we will never find out but if they monitor the internet for bad press and complaints like some big companies are rumoured to, then perhaps they are aware and are keeping their heads low. Better luck after the repair. Mine still in the box....... Dont buy any you see advertised for sale as BNIB!

Nick

[Stephen Grigg]

Nick, Im going to spend all day trying to guess what BNIB means,,however this thread has put me right off buying this kit,and Im a fan of Seagull products normally.Looking forward to reading Grahams review

[Martin_H]

Brand New In Box, I would think...

 

Mine has become a Hangar Queen, pride of place hanging from the ceiling waiting for the time to carry out the undercarriage mods. I haven't glued my wings together, I have the blocks, the wire and the wire bender and am now just procrastinating... 

[Nick Brotherton]

Spot on Martin!

You obviously dont scan the BMFA website much Stephen! Its a great place to get some second hand stuff, but buyer beware of course! (I've been lucky so far).

 

Maybe I will brave it one day and get it out of the box. (then probably put it back again).

 

Nick

[Kelly]

My Seagull Boomerang lost its wings due to failure of the box spar.

 

I contacted Seagull and sent a report plus photos.

 

My LMS who sold me the Boomerang took a look and agreed with me on the cause, informed JPerkins and I sent the remains of the wing for their inspection.

 

I was sent a new Boomerang with a alloy tube replacing the traditional ply wing brace as

supplied with the Seagull 40

 

I am sure if those of you with the dodgy U/C version did the same they would resolve the issue in a similar manor.

 

Kelvin.

 

 

[Leon Taylor]

Kelvin- Your faith in Seagull is touching, but they  have refused to answer any of my e-mails complaining about the flimsy undercarriage,  both direct and through Inwards the retailer. Leon

[Stephen Grigg]

Ive had my fair share of Seagull Started with the E Pioneer,Boomerang ,2 Seagull 40,Texan,Cap232,Harmon Rocket,,they all been great but the Mew Gull is obviously a pup,and with such negative feed back from Seagull,they are doing themselves no favours and damaging there reputation

[FEDERICO GILLI]

I been in contact with SMC and J.Perkins about the landing gear loads of time. SMC came forward with the spring wire for my mewgull legs mod but from J.Perkins so far the only feedback is that Seagull is happy with the desing, they do not see anything wrong with the undercarriage and they also add that the have not received enough complains about it to point to an endemic problem!! At one point they offer to replace the wing but now the did U turn on this option too.

I'd loved to get their new 40 size cap and maybe the Dewoitine but I think I go for an other manufacturer as I'm not impress with their feedback. Said that I love the mew gull and I hope sooner or later to be able to get new spats and come up with a solution.

 

Regards,

 

Federico

[Kelly]

Hi All

 

I think it is a case of providing evidence with video/pictures and people to come forward who have witnessed the U/C failures.

 

You need to complain so they take notice,I hope they do .

 

 

Stephen, please get a Dewoitina so I can avoid any problems with it before I build mine

 

Kelvin

[Stephen Grigg]

Hi Kelvin,Ive more models than receivers at present so its a NO from me!!!!!!!!!!!!!