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Taking the plunge - FPV


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It's funny Paul, I was thinking about cutting the bulkhead away to slide the battery back. I was also considering mounting the camera battery in the side where you have your ESC to shift the weight back on that too. Maybe the ESC on the other side for optimum cooling...?
If I did that then all in all I could get away with using the standard servo positions ... I may just go down that route. Need to sleep on it though as once I start cutting.....
 
Just thinking that I need to work out how to record video so that I can post something of the flight. The manual covers this pretty sketchily for my small brain (Sorry Simon but I still cant operate a VCR so I'm needing something fairly idiot proof).
 
It says you shouldn't split the signal i.e. to goggles and to a recorder so I'm not really sure what to do next. I need to re-read the manual on a day when I wasn't revelling until 3 am the night before.....
 
Speaking of which. Off to bed now.
Night all. 
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OK I've slept on it.
This morning I did the obvious. I took the foam canopy off my current Easystar and stuck the cam battery into the nose, shifted the existing Spektrum RX into the nose, moved the existing 3,700 mAh LiPo as far back in the cockpit as poss and attached the new FPV camera mount to test what was going on with the CG.
Surprisingly it didn't come off too badly. I should say that I do tend to fly it a little 'nose' heavy' anyway.
So, my thinking now is....
The new motor is 102g compared with 75g for the original 400. This extra 27g is going to be placed around 17cm rear of the recommended CG position.I'm going to move the ESC back into the fuselage (which will necessitate some vents being made though I'm using a 40 A ESC where 30 is recommended so it shouldn't get too hot). This ESC at 40g also weighs more than the original (not sure how much by as I'm not able to disconnect the old one from the motor easily).
In addition to weighing more the ESC's moved from 7cm forward of the CG to 13cm behind the CG which will have a very positive effect. (Who said 'O' Level Physics was a waste of time...).
Finally, my flight battery will be lighter - the biggy I'm using now is a whopping 212g and the 3S I'm planning on using is only 155g. It'll give me shorter flight times but somehow I can't imagine sitting in a field in a pair of goggles for 50 minutes at a time!!
 
All this will mean that I can leave the servos where they belong and use the existing snakes etc - a much better option (p.s. Anyone want to buy some unused servo extensions....) 
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Yeh, and GWS as well - double yikes!!
Tony, I think at the very least I would be using a quality D/C receiver such as a multiplex synth, or Schulze or similar. Personally I always found GWS receivers pretty poor, maybe I was unlucky, but as you have invested a fair bit of doish into this project, why spoil the ship for a h'pennyworth of tar as they say.
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Posted by TonyS on 01/01/2010 17:42:26:
My first thoughts on the set-up of the plane are...

 Great subject for an online build Tony, I think a lot of us are intrigued by the possibilities of FPV but have not yet had a go.  One question - am I misreading the above photo or are you proposing to bury the ESC inside the cavity within the EZ*'s body?  If so I think you will suffer from overheating problems.  I'm probably misreading your intentions, perhaps you propose to mount the ESC externally at this point?
 
Oh and Paul@scc - let me know if you want a buddy box co-pilot for your FPV set up?  I seem to recall you're just down the road from me and I'd love a go on an FPV plane
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Ok boys.  Now I'm worried!
 
I don't understand the connection between brushless and 35MHz..?
I have to go with 35MHz for the plane Rx because the 2.4GHz camera Tx interferes with the 2.4GHz Rx in the plane and vice versa. Hi-end Futaba's are the recommended way forward according to firstpersonview.com.
I've only ever flown using my Spektrum Tx so have no experience of 35MHz.
Surely loads of people still flying 35MHz sets have gone brushless....? 
 
Timbo - I wouldn't know a GWS fom a pineapple. Is a Multiplex Synth 35MHz?
 
As for ha'porth of tar,  that's turning rapidly into hundreds of pounds !!
So far, ignoring the gift from wifey:
Cam mount £65
Gyro headtracker £160
New Easystar £55
New motor £19
New 35MHz Tx £110
35MHz Rx - depends on the outcome of this conversation....?
Anyone want their cars washing...... 
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Hi Tony,
 
As brushless set ups became affordable and common, it was found that they interfered with 35 (and 36)Mhz equipment. With very careful installation and a careful range test at half throttle you may evade problems.
 
Timbo, a Schulze RX was the only thing that I could ever get to work without unflyable glitches. Including expensive Futaba RXs.
 
Tony, I have a Schulze 35Mhz RX which I am happy to lend to your project if you hit problems.
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Hi Clive,
Thanks for the response and for the kind offer of the Rx. I may well take you up on that one if I can't find a way around the problem.
I had no idea that brushless motors interfere with 35MHz Rx's. What do you mean by careful installation? If you see from my diagram, I'm proposing that the Rx goes in the nose, the antenna will run in a tube along the bottom of the fuse from front to back and the motor is...well, where it is.Is there anything I can use to shield the motor?
 
 
 
 
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Just did a little test on my existing plane and the motor is drawing 84Watts at WOT.
 
On this basis I really don't need a massive motor - 150 Watts would be more than ample power. Perhaps a slightly better brushed motor? Also, would a weedier brushless create less interference for the RX?
 
Answers on a postcard please...... 
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Hi Ross,
The initial kit was £399..... !  (It's best not to think of it really...)
 
I'm looking forward to it myself but setting up the plane is becoming a challenge. I'm really glad I decided to post a blog as I'm getting some interesting views on the set-up...... 
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I and presumably many others have spent many many hours on 35Mhz installations to avoid interference. This is why we love 2.4Ghz!
 
You will get lots of solutions offered but before you start building a Faraday cage to house the electronics lets just stick to the basics. For a start, keep the ESC as near to the motor as practical and as far away from the RX as possible. If you do have glitches, you will often find that altering the throttle setting will alleviate the problem. Schulze, Berg and some other RXs have a circuit designed to reject the interference. Schulze in particular have been pro active in this area and some useful info is to be found on their website
 
It is not certain that you will hit problems but if you do, there are plenty here with experience of the issues and hopefully solutions. Lets not start trying to solve problems before they occur.
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Posted by TonyS on 02/01/2010 12:22:30:
Hi Ross,
The initial kit was £399..... !  (It's best not to think of it really...)
 
I'm looking forward to it myself but setting up the plane is becoming a challenge. I'm really glad I decided to post a blog as I'm getting some interesting views on the set-up...... 
 
That is a lot of pennies. Fair play to your other half, that is a great gift.
 
Hope it works ok for you. Good luck mate.
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Right Clive.
So.....If I stick to the plan and put the ESC as far back in the fuselage as poss and see what happens then, if I do get a poor result with the old GWS Rx I'll be knocking on your door 
 
Is it transmissions from the motor or ESC that cause the interference with the Rx - I'd have thought it was the em radiation from the motor....? (But then this is all O Level stuff to me and that was ahem.....a few years ago now)
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Tony.
My set up on the two EZ* I have had (the first one I wore out and is now retired )are.
 
ESC on top or in the side as you have seen from the pic. On top is easier it just not as good looking. Personally I would not bury it inside the fuse.
Rx in the front.
Servos in there pockets
 Never had a problem. No shielding of motors or any of that fancy stuff. Maybe i've been lucky.
 
@ Peevie. No problem mate. When the weather gets warmer I will get the kit back on the EZ* and get out there. I'm in Chalfonts. Was you involved in the YT meet at Slough?
 
 
 
 
 
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Little progress report.
Having settled on the position of the ESC in the fuse I've been playing with getting the ventilation right. First off I made three holes - one on each side of the fuse (angled inwards and to the back)..
From inside....

Then I made the 'exhaust'

 hole in the top of the fuse under the motor..
 Then I fitted the two tape air scoops to each side...
 

I'm sure that this should force enough air around the ESC to keep it happy.

 
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