Romeo Whisky

Yes please, count me in

Me again! Yes please.

I have always used a Thermos Cool Bag for mine. They are light, with a shoulder strap, and have a reinforced waterproof base. I've used them for all my trannies through the years and I also use larger ones for carrying other stuff for the field. I love a carrying case that protects the contents but weighs next-to-nothing itself. They have changed the design over the years but here's what the current one looks like. I just use a couple of standard car-wash sponges inside to protect the sticks and switches when carrying. You can buy them at various prices from numerous sources, including ebay. Thermos Cool Bag Here's a source cheaper than the RRP: FlasksOnline

Count me in please.

Got it! I never saw the original chat thread so now I get it. There's a new draw thread every day, and that's the one to add a posting to. Count me in for today.

A couple of questions for some clarification please ..... Does the post have to be in this thread - or will a post to any thread or a new thread qualify for entry? Do we have to leave a post every day, or does a single one-off post cover for the whole draw period? Happy Christmas everyone!

Great service from ModelShopLeeds too. Ordered a new model online yesterday. Arrived lunchtime today. What more could you ask? If only they could fix the weather so I could fly it!

It would be nice to be able to post .jpg or .png photographs into a thread without having to insert them into an album first.

Sorry Bill - I misunderstood what you were asking. When you set up the Custom Voice Setups as above, you do get the warning when you select a different model memory, but not when you just power on. I always check the switch before I connect the battery in the model anyway. As you say, the Manual says you can do it, but blowed if I can see how. I expect John's method works OK but the manual would indicate it's supposed to be simpler and more straightforward than that. Sorry I can't be more help. Edited By Romeo Whisky on 21/10/2020 14:20:55 Edited By Romeo Whisky on 21/10/2020 14:25:51

Here it is - step-by-step In the model main screen, press the scroll button and scroll to Custom Voice Setup Click to select Add New Sound Event Select Switch Change Report Select the switch (by scrolling through them and then click to set) Select Pos 0 and then scroll through the available messages to select "Launch Mode" Select Pos 1 and then scroll through the available messages to select "Throttle Cut" You can confirm your settings by activating the switch Then simply back up to the main model memory screen. You have to do this separately for each model memory in use.

If it's any help, I use switch H for throttle cut and I set up voice alerts for both positions: "Throttle Cut" (obviously) and "Launch Mode" for when the throttle cut switch is off. As JR says above, you set the swtich voice alert for what you've set the switch to do.

I've been flying for years, (Mode 2) now using a Spektrum DX9 - electric models only and it has never occurred to me to question the purpose of the throttle trim tab - yet I have never used it. It has recently been brought to my attention in the context of calibrating an ESC to recognise top and bottom stick settings but I can't see why it should be needed and I'm concerned that it might have unwanted side effects such as mess with the throttle-cut or failsafe. Can anybody throw any light on the subject for me?

If that motor is 1900Kv as suggested above you could consider building a simple profile model using foamboard (cheap from The Range) something like a 2S 850 battery with a 8x4 prop. Just needs 3 small servos. Dirt cheap and great fun.

Just tried to access the BMFA website and Firefox has refused, saying that it poses a security threat. I usually look at the BMFA site daily to check for news updates so this comes as a surprise. Has anybody else had this problem today?

I realise that this is of no practical help, but I have 5 chargers of various brands and models including an IMax B6. Some time ago I checked the voltage reading of all of these on a single 3S LiPo battery, plus a Kinzo voltmeter, three different battery-checkers and two different wattmeters which also show start voltage. None of them agreed with any other! Whether this is due to variations in the gadget design tolerances or possibly fluctuating lipo battery voltage, I can't say. I even have one (my most expensive auto-balancing charger) which routinely charges some cells to just slightly above 4.2V to get as close to a fully charged 3S battery as possible. (I rarely use that one any more). All I can say is that for practical purposes the chargers all charge OK and it doesn't seem to have any effect (that I can detect) on flight performance or duration.

Simple search for "Heatshrink Tubing" on Amazon pulled up this ..... Link to Amazon

At a Committee meeting last year I suggested that our club might be eligible for registration with HMRC as a CASC (Community Amateur Sports Club) which might enable us to reclaim 20% Gift Aid from HMRC in respect of our club subscriptions and donations. My suggestion was not received with any great enthusiasm and it was felt it was doubtful we would qualify. Does anyone on on the forum have any experience of their club applying for or being granted CASC? If so, how easy was it to achieve and what are the pros and cons, pitfalls etc.? From an earlier post on a different thread I gather that Tim Flyer might be able to throw some light on this subject.

There is a lot of useful information for beginners with electric flight here ... **LINK**

There are several videos and lots of stills of waterplanes in our club website photo and video galleries The video gallery is here ... Dumfries Model Flying Club Video Gallery

Single-edge razor blades are great for straight cuts; #11 scalpel for curves. For glue I use hot glue gun or UHU POR. Remember foam-board is not rain or dew proof, so some packing tape around exposed edges is advised. Like corrrugated cardboard the Proplex strength is in one direction only and it's very bendy along the internal corrugated flutes but stiff laterally, which you need to bear in mind when designing/building. You can slide a thin carbon rod down the flutes to make a stronger wing spar etc., although I didn't do this with the Chuckle as the tape gives extra strength and rigidity, and leaving it flexible gives it a slight dihedral in flight even though the wing is one flat piece of Proplex. When building, you need to be careful not to accidentally introduce a crease as that will be a weak point.

Hi Nigel - Proplex is similar to Correx but slightly thinner and lighter. Here are pics of my foam-board "Upstart" the motor mount is a Bovril jar lid