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Romeo Whisky

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Everything posted by Romeo Whisky

  1. The Range also sell big sheets of foam-board - same price. Great for building really cheap models that fly well. For small models you could also try Wickes Proplex corrugated plastic sheeting - £2.50 for a large sheet. Here's my little "Chuckle" made from Proplex sheeting covered with coloured packing tape.
  2. Thanks guys, info much appreciated. I always keep jump leads in the car as it's an auto, but cannot get another car very close to where I have to park it at home. Also I can't easily use a trickle charger as there is no power point handy and the driveway is open plan. The idea of using one of my lipo chargers set to Lead Acid and powered by a Lipo is certainly an option I hadn't thought of. I realised that taking it for a drive once a week is the obvious answer, and have done that with my wife's car, but as we depend on various neighbours to bring us food essentials I don't want them to get the wrong impression that we are flouting the govt rules. I also don't know how the local stasi would respond if I explained that's what I'm doing. While we're on that subject I don't understand why plod is harrassing people exercising or walking dogs when they are clearly well above two metres away from anyone else. Don't they realise that for many people the beach or countryside is their local area?
  3. Like many on this forum, I am over 70 and therefore under "house arrest" for the duration. One thing that's worrying me is that my car - an automatic - has been standing on the drive outside, with the alarm (and other electronics?) steadily draining the battery. I have no means of charging the battery "off-line". So I have two questions for "me learned friends" ... 1. When a car is not driven for some time, how long before the battery goes flat, assuming battery is in good condition, and was charged on a 30 mile journey prior to lockdown? 2. Is it possible to use a 3S 3200 LiPo (or perhaps two in parallel) to jump-start the car if its battery does go flat? (And how would you set that up?)
  4. Announced in the newspaper this morning, UK is pulling out of EASA. Now what?
  5. Posted above by PatMc " Do the same regulations apply if the camera only relays live images with no recording is being made ? " I think you'll find that the problem is capturing personal data (in this case an image) without the subject's knowledge and consent and relaying it anywhere where it can be viewed by a third party. You would not be able to control whether the third party records it or not in any case. But don't rely on my opinion - if you Google "GDPR" and check out the rules re CCTV on the Data Protection website you'll get the full facts.
  6. Sorry to be a wet blanket - but presumably you do know that this has implications for GDPR (Data Protection Law)? If you take photos of identifiable people in this way you must have a prominent notice to say "CCTV in Operation on this site", which rather negates the benefits of hiding the camera, and could be interpreted to indicate that there are potentially items worth stealing if protected by CCTV. You could get the consent of members to allow this, but it would not cover visitors, or even intruders on to the site. We plan to focus a camera purely on the windsock which is only up when members are on site, but would also indicate if there was fog or mist even if no-one is present. Edited By Romeo Whisky on 09/02/2020 11:38:44
  7. From the early days of electric, the GWS FormosaI've still got two of them upgraded to brushless and Lipos.  (US Navy one was lost in a mid-air collision). Great flyers.   Edited By Romeo Whisky on 20/01/2020 13:46:14
  8. One point to note is that there are two primary types of brushless speed controller - linear and switch-mode. Most (though not all) larger (40A+) amp ESCs these days are switch-mode; most smaller ones (<=25A) are still linear. Those in between may be either and it's worth buying switch-mode for preference. Linear ESCs run hotter than switch-mode and usually incorporate a larger heat-sink. It is also true that all ESCs can get warm in use, so most incorporate a thermal cut-out, and you REALLY want to avoid that happening in flight so you need to ensure adequate air-flow over the ESC when the model is in flight. It is also true that ESCs have to dissipate more heat when running at half throttle, and this is one reason why it important to use an ESC with plently of ampage headroom (ie. suggest 25% bigger than the maximum likely amps draw at full throttle). Hope that helps.
  9. Just seen your post and that no-one had come up with a response. I would have thought it was possible to make a dolly for any size model. In WW2 the germans used them for full-sized aircraft. I don't have any models that big, but I would think that you could upscale my dolly design which works well. The main thing is to keep the dolly as light as possible, with big wheels for minimum rolling resistance and a fixed tailwheel (NOT castored). Be ready to input plenty of right rudder on the take-off run as torque effect may make it swing to the left (the full-size P40 was a bit of a pig in that respect I understand - hence the big rudder). Hope this helps.
  10. No idea if this would work in a really damp large space, but I've found it works great for other areas where condensation is an issue. Get a few bags of silca gel cat litter from Home Bargains (you get a large bag for a couple of quid). You can make smaller bags of it up using fine netting such as old net curtains (shake the dust out outside) . Then you can put a bag of it inside each airframe. Also works quite well on the rear parcel shelf of car to help reduce inside condensation on car windows overnight. Tip... Avoid the brands of silica gel which are perfumed!
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