Richard Wood

Going together really well. Thoroughly enjoyed building & flying a Cambrian 109 back in the 80s. The quality of this latest version of the kit looks very good.

Nice job. From your photo the wing bolt location still runs straight through the aileron torque rod position. The manufacturer should have sorted that out by now.

Posted by Keith Billinge on 16/04/2019 16:46:13: Currently building an electric Crescent Bullet from the Cloud Models kit. My building skills are a bit rusty, so it's taking me a while, but I am really enjoying the build. I just made the carved balsa nose cone. and the fuselage is nearing completion. KB Hi Keith, The bullet flies superbly on electric & is enjoyable to build. Just be aware that the wing fixing bolt T-nut holes need moving back from the aileron torque rod position. This issue may have been sorted by now but check first. Also try & keep the tail light .

Apologies for late post, been away & just seen this thread. Very sad news, Dave B's contribution to this forum & RCME was immense.

Yes, the Micron kits were great for learning soldering skills. The instructions were very well illustrated & obviously aimed at model builders with only a little electronic knowledge necessary to build them. There were other kit offerings around in the late 70s from Waltron & Teleradio but these didn't seem as popular as Micron.   Edited By Richard Wood on 10/01/2019 11:22:10

Thanks for that Phil. I remember building an Elf Tx, Rx & servo back in the late seventies. I had to send it back to Micron to get tuned-in & set up but it worked superbly. It was so much cheaper to build a kit in those days & it was the only way I could afford an R/C set on a paper-round income! Mine ended up in a Mercury Matador which was a thrill to stooge around until the inevitable hard landing.

Hi Tosh, Hitec servos are good quality, reliable & reasonably priced with a good range of different sizes & types. Many cheap servos are probably ok.

Acro Wot.

A Kougar would be a great match with your OS 55AX, or a Bullet with your 46.

The SIG Kougar is another old design that flies very well that is still around as a builder's kit. Be wary of heavy, hard balsa in some SIG kits though. As mentioned, the Bullet is a good choice. Edited By Richard Wood on 07/08/2018 10:28:15

Edgar is right - a piece of TE section balsa fits between the upper & lower TE strips. Another piece of TE balsa is glued onto this to create a level surface to glue on the ply reinforcement for the wing bolt. All this is hidden by the cockpit assembly - from memory you probably need the fuselage built to complete this stage.

Good idea to make the struts removable Jon if it can be done securely. The lower wing is nylon bolted to the fuselage & the struts are fixed to the lower wing with small metal nuts & bolts but replacing these with small nylon types might be worth investigating to help against damage. Piano wire skids fixed to the lower wing tips are included in the kit & might help protect the tips. Hopefully Flair Scout kits will become available again - especially the Attila which is a great model to fly. Edited By Richard Wood on 25/07/2018 09:46:20

I found that the Baronette was quite quick to build - especially the wings which could be put together very quickly. The cockpit sheeting area took a little time to get as neat as possible and glueing the wing struts into top & mid wings is simple enough with a template and slow setting epoxy. One good thing about the Baronette kit is that it has no lite ply! The nose looks too long & would look much more scale a little shorter. Interesting black colour scheme. Edited By Richard Wood on 25/07/2018 08:16:07

The Baronette was fun & interesting to build but the initial 'flight' was just a big ground loop. It's been on the shelf since which is a bit of a shame. Must try it out again one day...

Hi Oliver & welcome back to the hobby. I have a spare Wot 4 Mk 3 instruction manual I could send to you. If you PM your address I can put it in the post. Alternatively I could scan it & email it to you.

I use cyano rarely now because of the reasons Peter & fly boy have mentioned. The fumes can make you feel ill if used in a room with little ventilation. The heavy cold symptoms are not worth the reduced build time over PVA or aliphatic. Occasionally use it for glueing wing ribs onto spars.

The WC footie is more interesting than much of the programming on TV - Interminable cookery programs, quizzes, soaps & 'reality' nonsense - all cheap to make & all with the off button more interesting... No one complains when the snooker is on .

I enjoyed building & flying an ME109 Cambrian funfighter way back in the early 80s on a 'cooking' .19 glow. It looked realistic in flight but I seem to remember it did need the speed kept on during landing as others have said. Mine stalled & crashed when it went dead stick - the piston seized in the poor quality engine. It should be good on electric power. Edited By Richard Wood on 04/06/2018 15:54:03

Best wishes David.

Hi Douglas, The U/C I used was the same type supplied with the Wot4: **LINK** It's not particularly cheap & there are a few alternative types if you want to go the way I did with the U/C. I used this method because I needed to cut out the former at the wing LE for battery clearance for electric power & the original wire arrangement was impractical. As Ken says, if you're powering it with IC the original wire U/C is perfectly ok.

Hi Douglas, That's a good idea to substitute the 3/32 sides for 1/8. It is a very good kit - my 1st Magician was OS40LA powered & flew very well but tended to nose over a little until I cranked the U/C legs forward a little - but this was probably more due to my lack of skill than anything! My 2nd Magician is being built for electric & I cut out the second former for battery access & I'm using a different U/C arrangement - a ply mount with fibreglass legs as below: Edited By Richard Wood on 18/04/2018 07:52:54

Posted by Douglas Wheelhouse 1 on 16/04/2018 14:38:41: Hi Everyone, Has anyone built one of these recently? I am getting on fine but have an issue on 2 points, 1 when fitting the rear deck sheeting, the sheets are3/32, so when pulled in it gives 3/16 & the fin is a 1/4,or is there a false finpost. Is the fin just glued to the top decking spine ?. would really appreciate some guidance Thank you, Douglas Hi Douglas, Yes, the fin is simply glued on to the top spine & as you've found, the fin is slightly thicker than the rear top sheeting at the rear! I don't recall this being an issue with the 1st Magician I built many years ago but was with a later kit. I shaped the fin at the rear a little for a better blend with fuselage rear. I followed instructions & just epoxied the fin to the fuselage top but you could try a small dowel arrangement or similar for belt n' braces if you're worried. Hope this helps.

The disc sander attachment on my old Dremel jigsaw was wobbly & of no use. The jigsaw itself was very handy though...

Posted by Percy Verance on 03/04/2018 21:53:00: Just use a larger capacity lipo EP. Something like a 3300 or maybe even a 4000mah. It should still go in if you devise a fixing similar to the one I described earlier. A larger capacity pack will give you a further 2 or 3 minutes in the air, at roughly the same overall model weight....... Then you really could lose that 4.8v pack........... That was really the problem with these models. That awful glassfibre fuselage moulding had the weight in completely the wrong places, with little strength where it was needed most! Edited By Percy Verance on 03/04/2018 21:56:42 I thought it was a reasonably good fibreglass fuselage moulding for its time Percy it was a good attempt from W&E to market a realistic looking non-boxy trainer. It wasn't the lightest fuselage admittedly & that was its compromise, but it seemed strong enough around the bulkhead & landing gear mount with a little laying-up with resin & glass cloth in these areas. Edited By Richard Wood on 04/04/2018 09:54:55

The Superfly was marketed as an 'ARTF' back in its day, but needed a fair amount of work to complete. I recall fitting the bulkhead accurately with polyester resin & glass cloth and other odd jobs on the fuselage were quite daunting for a young newbie. My 3 channel version flew nicely enough on an Enya 35, but that's nostalgia. Good luck with your electric version - it's an attractive model with a Cessna look. Edited By Richard Wood on 04/04/2018 08:25:26