Petrol Pete

Hi I would suggest you adjust the pick up hall sensor to be as close to the magnet, (about the thickness of a sheet of paper), i have seen this give all sorts of trouble if the gap is too large. i set the plug gap to the thickness of a stanley blade never fails, good luck.

hi i did one yesterday on a os 26 four stroke, i replaced the plastic throttle arm, with a nut and bolt and soaked it in wd40 gentle pressure after a bit of soaking and it started to move, cleaned it up and then lubed it with after run oil all good Pete

hi, I have swopped the carbs round on os's before by just taking the two screws that attach carb body to backplate, turn it 180 degrees and refit screws job done

Hi, I would suggest you try the Component Shop in wales, they have a really good selection of wire and connectors, and anything to do with the electrical side of aeromodelling , they are very helpful on the phone. give them a try you won't be disappointed. Pete

Hi Boys, I think your going down the wrong path, i wouldn't change the carb there very reliable but I have found that poor starting is usually caused by the reeds falling apart, check them and also mod the reed block which is basically sanding the surfaces with fine wet and dry (400) ish on glass. i'd also clean/ replace plug and reset gap, i use the thickness of a Stanley knife blade that works fine good luck. there's loads about reed block clean up on line..

Hi Boys, I think the needle on the diaphram side of the carb is stuck, probably with dried up fuel, whip the cover and lift out the diaphram, press the arm down gently watching the needle lift off its seat and reassemble, start it with a splash of fuel down the carb or keep flicking with full choke and half throttle to draw fuel through. this often happens when they have been left for a while, i think the petrol evaporates and leaves the sticky oil behind Pete

Hi, I had a very similar experience with a 7008, mine you could get it to rebound but it would suddenly unbind after about a minute. I sent it back to ripmax and they said the main chip was faulty and offered me a new replacement at trade price, not cheap as its one of there best receivers. I now use Futaba and frsky and have to say never had a problem with Frsky. Pete

Hi Gary, I think everyone's fousing on the tank, remember these carbs have a very effective pump, so we should be focusing on the fuel in the flote chamber ( the diaphragm side of the carb) do put a extension on the vent into the fuz. Check the height of the needle arm and a good check of the diaphragm, a full kit to overhaul these on e bay is only about £6 . It must be going weak or rich for a moment if it cuts out and then will restart within a few flicks if it was a fuel line problem you would have to flick it many times to draw fUel back up. I rember the early Dle30 with the side carb used to cut out if you flicked it round after landing to taxi it back, this has got to ba a mixture problem. Pete

Hi Gary, this is exactly the same as my dle 20 I mentioned earlier in the thread, mine was cured on the ground by richening up the idle mixture so I would say it's rich but idles ok about 1/2 a tire. Give it a try it only takes a moment! Pete

Hi Gary , I think it's a carb mixture problem, maybe caused by carb icing whatever but as these carbs use the idle jet to be part of the mixture in the upper rev range the idle mixture is relevant to the total mixture and anything that reduces the flow will end up with a weak mixture Pete

Hi Gary, I have been having exactly the same problem with a dle20, I've changed the clunk, replaced the fuel one, striped and cleaned and overhauled the carb and still it runs for about 2 mins in the air and cuts as you back off on the throttle, I then found it would run flat out and cut on backing off the throttle to a lower setting. I then ran it in the garden flat out for about 2 mins( poor Neighbours) and backed it off and it cut, the only way to stop it was to riches the idle up about 1/2 a turn which is quite a lot on a petrol that stopped it and it kept going whatever. I haven't flown it yet as I'm on holiday . The other point of note more for me was I was running it on 50-1 mix which I see is debatable on small engines. I can remember a zenoa 62 I had years ago did similar with a carb bend on it and people said it was fuel condensing on the bend in cold weather ? Pete

Hi, I've had one for about 10 years with about an 18 glow engine, the go like a rocket and are great fun to fly rather like a control line combat without the lines. one of the members at our club picked one up for £40 last year and love's it, there a great little hack. pete

hi, I have used a water based floor varnish and it went sticky after about a month with fuel on it, and its a hell of a job to clean it up to re-coat, I'v found clearcoat very good over the years. Pete

If anyone's after normal superglue, try Toolstation the sell 50g pots of thick and thin for about £2-50 ,I've used it for the last few years and its good. they also sell the activator cheap.

Hi Steve, Now go and get a few hours under the belt on the engine, and then give it a final tweek. if its new use MINERAL oil at about 30;1 for the first 5 lts, it ends up with a better running in engine then go onto fully synethic at 50;1 . ( I bet i have just opened up another can of worms) Pete

Hi, I have just had a look at what props I was using on my DLE20 a 17x8 wood or an APC 16x10 which it definitely ran best on that was in a old cap 232.

Hi Steve, I always use a throttle curve on my petrol engines, the have a very big carb for the engine size, I normally start with a setting of about 25% open for 50% stick movement, and then just adjust the curve until general flying is about 1/2 throttle on the transmitter

Hi first post, I believe the veneer used to be stuck on with latex adhesive (copydex) smells of ammonia