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Flite08

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Everything posted by Flite08

  1.      Ah well, I'm afraid its a bit agriculture. Make sure that all the grub screws are loosened/removed and any circlips removed, place on a firm surface with a hole in the appropriate position and firmly strike the shaft with a hammer that has a "soft" head  or if you have access to a press so much the better, if this method sounds a bit iffy  have a word with BRC for reassurance.          This is the way I did it I cannot of course guarantee that you will be equally successful                                                        F8      
  2. I hope we're talking on the same wavelength here!! Two piccies of my set up      
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  8.   Still haven't had a chance to have a good look at the Wittman plan yet, but it looks ripe for 250-300 watts if you ask me!   tim   If I build it it will be electrified but with some serious reduction in weight, as mentioned in the write up, how about   a 48oz auw?                         F8   
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  10. Posted by Colin Davies on 04/07/2010 19:45:49: Flite08 .That sounds ok, just one last question how did you fit the motor on the mount and then fit it in the nose.     Cheers  I actually fitted the motor after the fuselage was finished and as the motor screw holes and the holes in the plastic nose cone didn't quite match  I made a 1/16 ply plate to fit on the front of the nose cone which filled the slight recess between the cone and the foam front of the fuselage, a bit of a fiddle but worth the effort, a close fitting spinner a solid motor mount.                                           F8    
  11. A Fred Rising actuator using a Mighty Midget motor worked very well if my memory serves me right 
  12.   I have a BRC A2217-9T 950 Kv 230 Watt in mine, 10x6 aero naut  prop not exactly a             hotliner but warm enough for me                                                   F8 
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  16.        I used acrylic paint out of a tube, sort artists use for painting pictures!
  17.    To be honest if its on 27Mg or 40 then it wouldn't be wise to use it for planes (It shouldn't of course be on 35 that's only for planes not boats!) and as its 10 year old technology has moved on a pace since then and there are lots of good sets available now at quite reasonable prices some with mixes and rates on and in any case 2 channels is hardly enough except for a really basic glider, perhaps not what you wanted to hear but my 2p worth                                             Flite08 
  18. I agree with all of the above comments had loongmax/tipple for a while now no problems with any of them, "they do what it says on the tin"  
  19. I would have thought that Spektrum/JR was a big enough company with world wide sales to shout as loud as anyone in the support of their system 
  20. I don't think blowing lipos up is an age related thing, mistakes can be made at any age, even the bright young things of today will eventually get old (they hope!!)
  21. Why is it that on some American forums the ar6100e is the Rx most condemned, hardly a mention about the ar500, are we missing something? 
  22. Its strange in that, in at least two of the American forums the ar500 hardly gets a mention except to say how good they are, now the ar6100e has page upon page of users problems, yet this Rx is almost never mentioned in the UK problem pages, are we British supplied with  different Rxs from the Americans?                                                          Flite08 
  23. Posted by kc on 15/05/2010 18:34:28: Real Aeromodelling is building your own plane and flying it.   Flying an ARTF which has been made by people paid little more than slave wages is NOT aeromodelling!      This is true,Obtaining a plan, sourcing materials, and carefully building  your master piece that you know is yours, no wondering if the joints are glued correctly or if there is any dihedral braces in the wings etc and then when you fly your master piece you can sit back with pride and say I built that.
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