stu knowles
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Everything posted by stu knowles
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"and then make sure in OpenTx settings that OpenTx knows where they are " I've been following your advice and, so far , so good, until I get to this bit, just where in the settings menu?? Sorry if I'm missing something obvious. Thanks, Stu k
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stThanks for the response Chris, very helpful. I have put mine on charge and ordered a couple of memory cards and then it will be time to sit down and work through the process. first to get the Open TX 2.2 installed and then on to finding out how it all works. TBH getting the operating system on board worries me more than getting my head around the system when its in there. Maybe we could make this the Open TX / Horus thread for the benefit of all those in the same boat. I'll keep you updated and invite anyone else with the Horus to throw in their penn'orth here. stu k
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Did you succeed in changing to Open TX Robert?? I'm just about to do the same
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Would this work? https://www.banggood.com/Mini-Wired-Siren-For-Wireless-Home-Alarm-Security-System-SZC-2574-p-939525.html?rmmds=detail-left-hotproducts
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from the Chris Golds plan. 4 x OS25fp Foam and brown paper
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2x26cc zenoahs.About to start it's third season of flying
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The big issue that I have with glow is the exhaust residue which soaks into the wood and attacks the paint on scale finishes, the cleanliness of the move to petrol was a revelation which saw me migrate to a largely petrol powered fleet, but that is just a personal choice. I haven't misunderstood your posts, I regularly drop by this thread and I have a huge respect for Laser engines "Diaphragm carbs are a pain in the backside, end of story." My experience has been the absolute opposite. Diaphram carbs are fit and forget. If the fuel tank is somewhere in the model, a Walbro will find it and draw fuel. If I forget to take the bung out of the vent pipe, a diaphragm carb will collapse a substantial tank. I don't fly noisy engines and I don't fly unreliable engines. There would have been a time when a Laser powered fleet of models would have been the ultimate ambition but even though my two stroke petrol engines may be crude compared to your own products, at the moment, there's no way that I would swop them out. Most of the small stuff has been replaced by lekky and all the big engines are petrol. OS and Laser are (IMHO) the pre eminent brands of glow motors, it just feels like a rapidly diminishing market. I'm not having a chip at you or your products, its just that in your post at the top of this page you have laboured the faff and additional aggravation of fitting petrol engine / tank / fuel pipe and it that that I don't get. I would say minimal extra build time and significant gains to be had. As has rightly been pointed out, at the end of the day these are personal choices, but as also been pointed out by several contributors along this thread, lots of people think that petrol power has more going for it than glow fuel and they are waiting for Laser to offer them that choice. All the more galling as OS, Saito and even aftermarket suppliers seem to finding the way that you say can't be done. I was admiring the beautiful engineering of a 300V a while back. I don't want to fly one but I'd have it in a glass case on the mantelpiece. regards, stu k
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John, you have fairly strong views on petrol powered models, diaphragm carbs etc, which you perfectly entitled to hold. You have repeated them many times within this thread, however, I think that it needs to be stated that your views are not shared by everyone and that many people would say that in the subject of petrol powered models, you are misinformed. A trip to any event run by the LMA, in fact scanning any large gathering of modellers will reinforce how poplar petrol power has become in recent years and will also show that there are many people who have successfully addressed all of the issues that you have raised. Personally, I find petrol power clean and ultra reliable. I have engines that don't get touched from one year to the next, No issues with diaphragm carbs and effective silencing is all manageable. As you are a person involved in the production of some of the best glow motors in the world I recognise that you must have considerable expertise is many aspects of model motor operations but you do see to have a mind set against petrol power (which is your absolute right) but as my Blacksmith and Wheelwright friend was only saying the other day, 'I'm not worried, these rubber tyre things will never catch on - people will always need horses and carts' Sure that you're not King Canute with the tide coming in? regards, Stu k
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It was the 'East Riding Aeromodellers', check their facebook page. There wasn't much going on last year which was a shame because it was a first rate site for waterflying
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When I did mine I did a 'double twin' set up. Two channels ganged onto the throttle stick, the inners were the master channel and the outers on a slave channel. The outers were switchable, OFF or Throttle stick. I have used a similar set upon both lekky and ic models. Two batteries, one driving the outer motors and one the inners. Pairing the motors left and right would not be a good idea
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Irresponsible ' drone' retailers
stu knowles replied to DCW's topic in R/C Retailers / Distributors / Manufacturers
Really ???? Do you live next door to a woman who had a model crash into her wall by any chance? Edited By stu knowles on 16/04/2017 22:42:15 -
plans printing in kent
stu knowles replied to david simms 1's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Talk to Derek Scott at Model Plans, First rate guy and a wiz at copying and rescaling plans of all kinds. Prices are very reasonable. http://model-plans.co.uk/ -
Map of RC UK suppliers
stu knowles replied to Michael Hickman's topic in R/C Retailers / Distributors / Manufacturers
Shermans Model shop in Scunthorpe has gone -
I wouldn't use Hammerite on a model, too heavy. I have tried it on a classic car chassis and found that 'ordinary' paint lasted better than H'. My personal preference is car cellulose or Solarlac using Clearcoat as a fuel proofer over either one
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I would have thought that the 'free' bit was always a misprint. a freebee 132" span plan would be a first! I'm quite a fan of Mr Golds, he has produced some good looking models, despite him saying that he aims for 'cartoon scale' The Storch looks very good except for the undercarriage which doesn't have that long legged look when there's no weight on it. His recent Twin Pin' looked lovely
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Is it really worth bothering with ribs like that? Why not a full depth spar with half ribs on either side. The only thing to watch for is making sure that they stay tight to the board. Just a thought
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You've added more bands holding the wings on?
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if you google rc model float design you will find quite a lot of info
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Look up soft edge foam masking tape on ebay, or call at a car refinishers nearby. One box will be a lifetime supply
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I don't know what he gets paid-............ but its not enough!
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The Private Parking companies are, in the main run by former wheel clampers who were put out of business when the practice was made unlawful. Advice to 'just ignore it' is no longer current and some companies are going all the way to county court. There is a whole section on fighting these tickets on the Moneysavingexpert forum and another forum called Peppipoo. In the main though it is safe to say that they are scammers but if not handled correctly, they can get the upper hand
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I think that you will need deep pockets. An opportunity for a 'personal skills uplift surely/'
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Just as a matter of interest, the Futaba battery checker, the one that an aluminium cube and tests under load at 1 to 3 amps, failed all of my 'instant; four and five AA RX batteries, even at just one amp load. At first I blamed the checker itself but the niggling doubt has caused me to take them all out of use now except for small glow models. I have changed to sub C and latterly LiFe batteries. I feel more confident even though I had no event that could have been blamed on the AA size batteries. While on 35 meg I did have some bad glitching in a model powered by a 3W petrol engine. After much faffing, it was eliminated when the two separate batteries for RX and ignition were both stored together under the tank (with switches side by side and wiring intermingled) were separated. Moving the ignition battery and switch into the cowl and the RX battery and switch as far as possible in the other direction eliminated the interference and it never returned. I know that 2.4 is much less vulnerable to interference but personally, I won't ever put it to the test. It might work fine, you have to make up your own mind.
