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Rob Ashley

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Everything posted by Rob Ashley

  1. Hi Scott, I had the same symptoms on one of my OS32s - after bit of fettling and frustration, I noticed a much reduced performance, then only ran for short periods and eventually couldn't get it to run at all, so I sent it to Just Engines who stripped it and found the piston liner had deteriorated and was moving with the piston. Engine was U/S. I sincerely hope this is not the case with your engine but it might be worth sending it to them to find out. Fingers crossed for you Rob
  2. Andrew, If you know what you are drawing already (as in you have a plan with shapes and dimensions) then Try Solid Edge - the 2D is free but the 3D isn't - you can scan the images into the background and trace on top to produce very accurate drawings. I have been using it for CNC machining my own kits and other projects for about 7 yrs. Works perfectly. I did try Turbo CAD but it didn't really work for me - but I now of many that use it. If you are designing a model from scratch then there are a couple of pieces of software that may be of use: DevCAD - I have been threatening to buy myself this for years as it looks great, but I still like to draw my designs on paper then transfer to CAD. Wing Designer - Have used in the past but moved to Compufoil. Compufoil - Have been using for years and outputs dxf files which I then nest before CNC cutting. All have subtle advantages and disadvantages over the other - but the best program to use is the one you know, so I have stuck with Solid Edge. Whichever you use you will need to spend some time learning how to CAD effectively. Best of luck Rob
  3. Hi Tony, You wont regret building - become frustrated maybe - but it's worth it. Greatest investments were the CNC machine (way OTT), bandsaw and Dremel (both very useful), but to start you really only need a building board, cradle, scalpel and hacksaw to get going (as others have stated). I am also an advocate of masking tape, clamps and rubber bands to hold parts while glueing. If you can I would also recommend a fus jig such as the one sold by SLEC - they really help build straight. I prefer the Great Planes Sanding systems as I find the Permagrit a bit too chunky and difficult to get into small areas. Neither system is particularly cheap, but you you don't need these to start - just good sandpaper with home made pads. You will develop your tool box as you go as you will find some tools work best. Best of luck with the first build. Rob
  4. Nice one Mike. I think it is worth the effort to make the tail in a scale manner. I know Jon made his scale size so would be interesting to see exactly how much impact your larger size has on stability
  5. Andy. Sad news about your hurricane, but well done saving the model. .hope you can get it back airborne soon. Rob
  6. Hi Peter, Have you submitted your Destiny plans to the mags? Do you know if they will be published. Best Rob
  7. Hi Robert, What news? I am hoping she flew well now the power is 'sufficient!' Best Rob
  8. My wife said to me once: "I am never wrong! Even if I am you should never tell me...." I had no answer
  9. Richard, Many thanks to you - my kit arrived today and was waiting for me when I came home from work. Very much looking forward to getting it airborne with a nice Laser 80 up front. John H - I would be very interested in the build phots - they would be a great help Best Rob
  10. Interesting stuff here - great thread My CNC Router will cut ply of any thickness (based on the shank and cutting head of the bit) - I have cut 19mm ply, 10mm aluminium for engine parts, 1/2" balsa (ribs etc), Perspex (dummy engine parts), brass and acrylic. Z axis is 100mm so in theory this would be the max depth, so I guess Routers are more useable than lasers in that respect. I think I might stick with it as the edges do not need sanding to get the burn marks off making building easier. But a laser cutter for circa a 1/10th of the cost is great. I was once asked if CNC Routers were as accurate as a laser cutter - simply put - Yes... The CNC machine is the same so it boils down to the resolution (focus) of the laser and the cnc bit you are using for corners. It is only corners that differ as the cutting program will apply the necessary offset for each bit so curves andlines are as accurate as the drawing. So if you consider a 90 cut in a rib to machine a slot for the spar (let's say 1/4" sq) and I use a 0.8mm bit then each corner will be slightly rounded at a 1/4 of the 0.8mm bit diameter so 0.2mm round - this works for me. Indeed a very experienced engineer mentioned that a wider radius might be better in such corners as it would help reduce stress fractures and increase glueing area. For me 0.2mm is too difficult to see let alone worry about. Laser I think focus to 0.1mm?? Any how - I would encourage anyone to get into this element of the hobby - I really enjoy manufacturing my own kits and then building them, it adds another dimension. I also like kitting models for mates as it makes me smile when I see it fly I guess because I had a hand in it..?? Rob
  11. Hey Robert, Good for you. Repair going well I see - it will be flying before you know it. Rob
  12. Hi James, A realyy interesting thread. I build a CNC router about 8 yrs ago, then upgraded to a factory built machine and still use it a lot to cut my kits (and for other people too). I have often thought about having the ability to swap the router for a laser but not go around to it - this might be the push I need. That said, the price these days is about a 1/9th of what I paid (my eyes are watering right now when I think about it).. Have you tried 6mm balsa yet? Best - Rob
  13. Some very valid points of view here and some are relatable to model flying as KC states. I am personally not sold on the JP theory and mixing the types for the simple reason that each display pilot has a DA (Display Authority) that has been seen and authorized by CAA display authorizer. For the Military amongst us it is a Public DA. I have been on the aerobatic display circuit for a few years now and have displayed multiple types - each one has a different routine needing a sign-off. Every display pilot I know (many) including me (and even Andy Hill) have a check list or display sequence written down (usually on a kneeboard or in view in the cockpit) with min entry speeds and heights on them for each manoeuvre - these are unique to the aircraft you are flying. They are always there no matter how many times you have flown the routine. Not for one minute could I honestly say I have not made a mistake and been at the low end of one of the parameters - but that is why we have such spd/height gates - they are calculated for a reason. Pushing one is not good but you have another in your favour, pushing both usually ends in catastrophe. I do not know Andy Hill and I am sure his memory loss is due to the crash, equally I am sure he did not anticipate the severity of the outcome, but sadly this accident was the outcome this time. Yes he could have rolled out at the top, but generally you are looking at the exit point above your head here (another reason to check ht/spd gate before entry) and not the instruments, as you are flying with visual references to ground/crowd lines/entry markers etc. I do not think instrument calibration would have been a factor either, given the height/spd of entry compared to those needed. I guess this is just my opinion. To have an opinion is easy in hindsight as 'there but for the grace of god god I' and I have some close calls, display flying is dangerous and needs careful management. This is why I think Jon Harper said it best "My only hope is that next time the changes made following this report are proportionate and reduce the chances of people being hurt". Rob My thoughts are with the families of the victims and those who were injured.
  14. Bill, The corrosion you see is due to the post crash fire and not the condition of the blades as they would have been in flight - very common in post crash fires. The AAIB mention this too.
  15. Robert, Sorry to hear and see that buddy - I feel your pain. Keep going as your Wellington is definitely worth the repair job. Rob
  16. David, I keep one - an Excel spreadsheet that logs flight time, weather conditions, landings, trim changes, modifications and any other remarks that are worthy of note. I started a number of years ago just to see how many hours each airframe flies and was quite surprised by the interesting data. Useful to know what gear is fitted so you can keep a track over the fleet and as a diary when my wife tells me I am always at the club. No sure whether it is my OCDs getting involved or my full size mindset but it works for me. Rob
  17. It did seem a little comical that international players needed to seek confirmation of the laws on a number of occasions. But, grit and eventually some lateral thought got the job done. Not pretty by any means still there were some flashes of skill. Scotland on form and in confidence should make a great game in 2 weeks.
  18. Jon, Looking back through the forum at your mods and at the above pic of your model is making me look forward to the arrival of the kit. Built up tail end definitely something I will do too. I have toyed with the idea of a small block petrol (Evolution or similar), but when all is said and done I reckon I am a LASER 80 man for this project. Rob
  19. I pretty much turn to my 80w Weller for most things now and braze with torch.
  20. Thanks, my wife picked some Gorilla glue up - not used it yet but way cheaper than everywhere else. Rob
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