Andy48

I sent you a link to a full set of written instructions earlier. There's 250 pages of detailed instructions available there.

I seem to think this is what I used as a rough guide.

Surely it is in the interest of every club to have this sort of indemnity? Who would stand for membership to the committee without it? There are always one or two nutters in clubs who will take things too far pointing fingers at committee members. As an example, some years ago as Treasurer, a couple of our members made the accusation that I was using the club credit card for my own ends. Firstly there was no club credit card, and secondly the accounts were fully audited, and would show up any payment from club funds to pay for said fictitious credit card. Had it gone much further I would have been glad of that cover. As it was these members fairly quickly became ex members.

I fitted one to one of my electric models running on a 4S. Bought a cheap one first and it was useless. Bought a better quality one and it was very good, equally comparable to a 2 bladed prop. Didn't notice any loss of efficiency. I couldn't find any comparison chart, but then the range of sizes for 3 bladed props is quite limited. Often wondered about this loss of efficiency thing. There are plenty of civilian and military planes using multi-bladed props for various reasons, usually for ground clearance reasons like the Spitfire. Can't be all that bad. Then there are wind turbines. Hmmm.

I've recently started to use varifocals and never needed sunglasses, yet my eyes have always had a significant light sensitivity. They glasses do have an anti-glare coating and this seems to work well.

Yes its quite a steep learning curve, but brilliant once you get there, and a rock solid radio. Have you read this OpenTX documentation: https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=8724

Probably would have been easier to backup the SD card, reformat it and copy the files directly from the website via the Mac and onto the SD card. As for the volume settings, look at the documentation I gave a link to earlier. Everything your will ever need about OpenTX is in there, and saves sifting through tedious long videos to find the 15 seconds you actually need. That documentation and its earlier version has now been downloaded over 250,000 times.

Did you delete the old file structure too. Otherwise check volume settings in system.

Going from 2.2 to 2.3 you need to completely update the SD card.

There are 2 ways of uploading a new version of OpenTX. You don't need the Companion. See here: https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=8724&sid=b97928b3bcff1c8e9d41c1418cba538a Chapter 7 page 11

You can get the firmware direct from OpenTX here: http://www.open-tx.org/downloads.html and then copy it directly onto the SD card and perform the update from there.

Have you changed the low and critical alarms in telemetry if using Access? The ISRM module needs them setting to 35 and 32 respectively. Also use the internal aerials.

Some of my ESCs have internal temperature telemetry. I rarely fly on full throttle, and I was surprised just how cool the ESC remained throughout the flight. These ESCs also have the ability to limit the maximum current, and this seems to have little effect on the internal temperature. It isn't always possible to get just the right size prop needed for electric.

You set the failsafe on the S8R just as you would with any other Frsky gear be it IC or electric. However, it is very unlikely you will ever get a flyaway, one because the range is very good anyway, and secondly because you will get audible warnings that the signal strength is low long before the receiver goes into failsafe. You cannot set the failsafe to switch on stabilisation, indeed there should be no need if the plane is well set up in the first place. Its worth setting the motor to 0% failsafe and add a little rudder % so that the plane will turn and either spiral down or come back into range, though I don't know how effective this would be though as I've never had a plane go out of range.

The information is all in here: https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=8724 Check out the "How To Part 1" section.

FrSky transmitters will buddy with almost any transmitter as slave.

Teesside MFC is the closest, about 10 minutes drive. Large flat field, owned by club. Need at least an "A" to fly solo.

I used to do quite a lot of magazine writing over the years. I've probably had over 100 3000+ word articles published, including some in RCME. I've never had an article rejected by a magazine. I stopped writing for RCME because of the requirement for professional quality photography. It simply wasn't worth it for the time and effort. Its not something anyone else can do with a build article which is what I was interested in. Professional photography has its place in the magazine, of course, but not for every article. I wonder how many, like myself, have been put off by this requirement?

Could it be something as simple as the fact that the voltage of batteries drops slightly after they are left to rest for a couple of hours? Were they both charged at the same time or one after the other.

Er no. The map is correct. Osgoodby, spelled with 2 "o"s is between Thirk and Kilburn.

I've got a Cricut, and the software I have can use any font. I use Craft Robo controller. A bit clunky by today's standard but works well enough.

It is best to never run an electric system flat out. Above about 2/3 throttle there is a dramatic rise in the current used compared to the static thrust. ESC heating is not a big issue in reality, I've found. As for props unloading in the air, they do but the effect is really quite small, about 5% at 40-50mph as I found by experimenting. Its good to have the extra power though, firstly for take-off, but also as the battery is being used, you don't feel any loss of power. Telemetry is a wonderful thing. ?

FrSky Neuron for me. Remarkably small and light, and if you have the right gear to access it, they have a number of telemetry measures built in such as current and voltage sensing, RPM and ESC temperature. However, the thing I like the most is the ability to limit the maximum current. You can see from the picture of the 60a version lead size just how small it is.

The joys of flying electric. ?

I would disagree. Firstly you cannot compare a servo spec to the static thrust produced by a model aircraft. Torque is not the same as static thrust. Torque is a measure of the force that can cause an object to rotate about an axis. The conclusion you come to is also incorrect. It assumes a 1cm radius drum, a smaller radius will obviously produce a higher speed, or you could gear it up. The static thrust of a model aircraft is the thrust of the combination of motor and propeller working together, and as we all know this can vary considerably depending on the characteristics of the motor and propeller individually. Personally I have never found an example where one of my models has not gained enough speed to take off if the static thrust is greater than the model weight. Most will take off on just half throttle, and never more than two thirds throttle. I suspect any model which requires a static thrust significantly higher than its weight would be very difficult to fly in any case and would have a very high wing loading. A RC model car will obviously fit this condition!