Andy48

See here: https://www.t9hobbysport.com/frsky-d4r-x4r-smartport-socket-cable-with-plug

This is my standard setup for a 3300mAh battery: It tells me when the consumption has reached a certain point. Its simple but effective. There are more complex ways where you can input the capacity of the battery first, but this too has its problems. While I have standardised on 3300mAh, over the years some have been replaced with 3200mAh or 3000mAh batteries. Either way I know when I get the third warning it is time to land, though I don't normally leave it that long.

My Access receivers work fine with the voltage sensor. Do you have the SPort configured to FPort by any chance?

Sounds exactly right. I also have a momentary switch (I added a second switch as they are so useful) that plays a series of values whenever I need it. The ones I use are consumption, flight time, RSSI and battery voltage. This is very useful when someone calls an emergency just as I am thinking of landing.

Could it be that the batteries are a lot colder too and the voltage is sagging quickly and thus cutting the ESC.

I fitted a diesel heater a couple of weeks ago. Fitted it externally with the warm air blown in at the top of the workshop. Then I invested in some insulated ducting to bring cold air out of the bottom of the workshop and through the heater. I made a sealed box for the heater and did not connect the heater intake directly to the cold air ducting from the workshop, but have the ducting simply entering the sealed box itself. This way it also keeps the box and the 20amp power supply cool. It doesn't have to be completely sealed, as a little fresh air also coming in is no bad thing. Any noise from the exhaust is outside and all I can hear once it settles down is the clicking of the diesel pump. It also solves a number of other problems. No diesel inside the workshop, and no hot exhaust to feed outside. It also has a remote control. I paid just £100 from Amazon. Just discover you can set the temperature you want, though it is not obvious from the menu. Overall it works a treat.

Of the four files, the top two are international standard, the bottom two are EU standard. Which you use, depends on which standard your transmitter is set to. For most of us it will be EU standard. The Fport is a newer receiver standard, mostly designed to overcome some of the issues with linking flight controllers for drones. In other words, which you use won't make a lot of difference for model planes, although the receiver must be capable of supporting this standard. Fport v2 allows other configurable devices such as servos and ESCs to be configured or updated via the receiver providing one is using ACCESS.

In reality the sunshine bit would be the easiest. Changing the nature of GCSEs or the views of the Department for Education would be next to nigh on impossible.

Not if he hasn't set up a model in OpenTX it won't.

Assuming this is now binding, have you actually set up a model in OpenTx? You will not get any servo movement if you haven't set up a model. The Taranis is different to other transmitters in this respect.

Once again, look in the OpenTX written guide I posted the link for. It tells you in there how to reload the firmware.

Its sounds to me like the FrSky firmware needs updating on the tx as you bought the tx and rx from different places. It could be your tx is old stock, as I have just come across with someone else, and needs updating. I would expect Hobbysport T9 will be a fairly recent rx, but just to be on the safe side it is worth updating both. Never heard of Hobby FPV, is this a UK company? If not, it might not have the EU firmware on it.

So are mine and some of them are puffing up full of their own self-importance.

I've just helped a guy with a similar problem. New TX and Rx bought at same time from same shop, except Tx is 3-4 years old! Wondered why it wouldn't bind, the Tx needed a full software update.

I sent you a link to a full set of written instructions earlier. There's 250 pages of detailed instructions available there.

I seem to think this is what I used as a rough guide.

Surely it is in the interest of every club to have this sort of indemnity? Who would stand for membership to the committee without it? There are always one or two nutters in clubs who will take things too far pointing fingers at committee members. As an example, some years ago as Treasurer, a couple of our members made the accusation that I was using the club credit card for my own ends. Firstly there was no club credit card, and secondly the accounts were fully audited, and would show up any payment from club funds to pay for said fictitious credit card. Had it gone much further I would have been glad of that cover. As it was these members fairly quickly became ex members.

I fitted one to one of my electric models running on a 4S. Bought a cheap one first and it was useless. Bought a better quality one and it was very good, equally comparable to a 2 bladed prop. Didn't notice any loss of efficiency. I couldn't find any comparison chart, but then the range of sizes for 3 bladed props is quite limited. Often wondered about this loss of efficiency thing. There are plenty of civilian and military planes using multi-bladed props for various reasons, usually for ground clearance reasons like the Spitfire. Can't be all that bad. Then there are wind turbines. Hmmm.

I've recently started to use varifocals and never needed sunglasses, yet my eyes have always had a significant light sensitivity. They glasses do have an anti-glare coating and this seems to work well.

Yes its quite a steep learning curve, but brilliant once you get there, and a rock solid radio. Have you read this OpenTX documentation: https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=8724

Probably would have been easier to backup the SD card, reformat it and copy the files directly from the website via the Mac and onto the SD card. As for the volume settings, look at the documentation I gave a link to earlier. Everything your will ever need about OpenTX is in there, and saves sifting through tedious long videos to find the 15 seconds you actually need. That documentation and its earlier version has now been downloaded over 250,000 times.

Did you delete the old file structure too. Otherwise check volume settings in system.

Going from 2.2 to 2.3 you need to completely update the SD card.

There are 2 ways of uploading a new version of OpenTX. You don't need the Companion. See here: https://openrcforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=8724&sid=b97928b3bcff1c8e9d41c1418cba538a Chapter 7 page 11

You can get the firmware direct from OpenTX here: http://www.open-tx.org/downloads.html and then copy it directly onto the SD card and perform the update from there.