Sparks
-
Posts
380 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Calendar
Downloads
Everything posted by Sparks
-
Kraft Series 71 refit using Frsky and Arduino
Sparks replied to Phil Green's topic in General Radio Discussion
Phil, thanks for the comprehensive reply. I had put the 'cal' pushbutton on a flying lead plugged into the trainer socket on the Digimac, unplugging it after initial calibration. However, to do full justice to the available functions you have provided , I think I shall now have to bite the bullet and get the drill out and fit the extra controll pots/switches into the Digimac casing. Fortunately, the Digimac has mechanical trims Cheers, Richard ps - should I also fit a rotary switch for model selection? (only joking!) Edited By Sparks on 04/08/2014 09:42:26 Edited By Sparks on 04/08/2014 09:44:24 -
Kraft Series 71 refit using Frsky and Arduino
Sparks replied to Phil Green's topic in General Radio Discussion
Hi Phil, I have 'upgraded' my DIGIMAC IV using your Arduino system and 35MHz Hiitec module (from Al's Hobbies). Will you be releasing the extra code for Single Channel emulation? (pretty please!) Rather than drilling an extra hole for the pushbutton, thought I could use one of those ex-WD microswitches plugged into the trainer socket. Cheers, Richard -
On both my Wot4 and AcroWot Foame's I ditched the steel screws and drilled & tapped the holes 5mm and use 5mm Nylon bolts to retain the U/C. With a 'heavy' arrival, the bolts will shear instead of ripping out the plastic U/C mount.
-
-
SMFC's Chris Foss Day 27th July 2014.
Sparks replied to David Davis's topic in Flying Sites and Clubs
There was also a 'Wot do you know' question sheet:- 1. What was Chris Foss's occupation before he took up full-time aeromodelling? 2. Where is Chris Foss Designs located? 3. Name as many Chris Foss models you can (Ripmax stuff excluded) The winner was Marvin Ryles - 2nd from the left who scored 11 - he needs to get out more! SMFC Secretary Edited By Sparks on 28/07/2014 09:41:26 Edited By Sparks on 28/07/2014 09:46:09 Edited By Sparks on 28/07/2014 09:46:58 -
Kraft Series 71 refit using Frsky and Arduino
Sparks replied to Phil Green's topic in General Radio Discussion
Congatulations Phil, excellent job and thanks for sharing the code. Nice to see the 'E' part of RCME still exists. -
Up = High Rates Down=Low Rates Same logic as throttle control
-
Yes please, I'll adhere to the rules.
-
Nigel's ''Project X' looks a lot like a Telemaster (see below) with a trike u/c. Perhaps it could be named a 'Trikemaster' .
-
-
This thread reminds me of the Monty Python 'Arguments Clinic'
-
The wife 'phones to say 'The car won't start as there is water in the carburetor'. I said 'OK, I'll come and get you, where is the car?' She says 'In the canal'.
-
You could just put a 4.3V Zener Diode in series with the 9V supply. That would drop the voltage to 4.7V (ish) A 1N5336 would do the job. It is rated at 5W, so would handle a current draw up to 1A Farnell Part No 9557938 - LINK
-
Yes please Santa - I've been a good boy this year.
-
As I have mentioned before, I am uncomfortable with the new +3deg tailplane incidence angle. I shall revert to 0 deg incidence and reduce the main wing incidence angle from +3deg to +0.5deg to compensate.. Have a look at Bango's excellent video (HERE) about incident angles and draw your own conclusions. Sparks
-
I have been checking the various parts from the laser cut kit and found this: As you can see, the tailpane inner 'rib' is too short, so will have to be repaced. Laser cutter please note! Edited By Sparks on 04/11/2013 15:03:30 Edited By Sparks on 04/11/2013 15:03:58
-
-
I agree with Martin's measurements. The cowling could be made usable with a 35mm dia motor by chopping off 15mm from the front of the cowl and gluing on a suitably shaped light ply facing. Having said that, probably just as easy to make a balsa cowling. I'll probably leave that until after some test flights to optimise the motor down/side thrusts. Richard
-
Further to my previous post - here is a picture of the MHS cowl to help you decide if it suits your powertrain set up.
-
-
Well, I'm still scratching my head about the tailplane angle of incidence, which is +3 deg on the MAG 227 plan. I have thereore decided to revert to the original 0 deg. setting and reduce the main wing angle of incidence from 3 deg to, say, 0.5 deg to compensate. Any comments from the forum Aerodynamicists would be appreciated. I shall be adding 0.8mm ply fuselage doublers as others have advocated. I plan to use a Turnigy G15 motor and 3S 2200mAh lipo (as I have a few!) The top deck will be removeable to facilitate easy battery fitting, probably incorporating the canopy. I've purchased the moulded cowling but it doesn't look suitable for Electric power, being too narrow at the nose to accommodate the G15 Motor, so looks like it will be a have to be a balsa version after all.
-
Since retiring, I seem to have less time for Aeromodelling, so many other activities to cram into the day now. Wish I had retired earlier! Sparks
-
As Shaunie says, the charging process is not 100% efficient, some of the 'energy' will be lost as heat. Most 'hobby' battery checkers estimate battery capacity by simply measuring the open-circuit voltage, which varies with cell temperature and is not factored into the measurement results. So don't treat the readings from these battery checkers as gospel.
-
See HERE for a Saito FG14 mounted 'upside down' in a Harmon Rocket - may give you some ideas.
-
My Motor thoughts:- The weight of original glow motors, say OS10 or OS15 would have been in the range 120>200 grams. So my thinking is to use an electric motor of similar weight to avoid unproductive lead weight up front to achieve correct CofG. The Turnigy Easy match motors seem to fit the bill:- 1) Turnigy G10 1100kv hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45151__Turnigy_G10_Brushless_Outrunner_1100kv_UK_Warehouse_.html 2) Turnigy G15 950kV hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31771__Turnigy_G15_Brushless_Outrunner_950kv_UK_Warehouse_.html These motors weigh 149g and 159g respectively, so in the mid-range of their glo counterparts.. Perhaps not the cheapest option, but they do look very robust with 5mm shafts and bearings compared to the more lightweight offerings with 3 or 4mm shafts. An important factor if you have seen some of my landings! As a matter of interest, the G10 and G15 Turnigy motors have very similar weights/dimensions and electrical characteristics to the more expensive Eflite 10 and 15. Sparks
