Redex

Hi Tony, I am interested in building a leccy Twin Hornet - but was it one you considered as a 'hot landing'

Hi Chris, I know this is an old thread but did you get/build this twin or get any forum responses. I too an thinking about a leccy version.

I paid £89 for mine Oct 2019 - A steerable nose wheel would have been nice to include in the kit, or a pre cut battery tray for leccy fliers

I had a link to 'dropbox' server and was then able to download the .pdf

Cowling is as as supplied in the kit, with no painting

My latest creation, a BillKits Slingsby T67 FireFly - awaiting maiden flight.

I put a picture of my Musketeer on the other Galaxy ModelsMusketeer Build thread

Here is mine - only had a couple of flights so far due to the current restrictions so not trimmed out properly yet. The most difficult part of the build for me was getting the rudder servo linkage right. I prefer to used metal rods for servo linkages not the plastic snake types. So bending the rod to get correct linkage took a little time to get right. Hope to get more flights in soon. Steerable nose leg also fitted.

just trying out upload

just trying to upload pic for size

Page 10 of the instructions ( items 25,26,27)

I too have recently completed the Musketeer build. I used two HS MG225 servos in each wing half for aileron control instead of central servo. Lots of room inside the fuselage for battery. Instructions with the model map out how to create a battery tray.

Or to show off some parallel parking !!!

HI all, just finished putting together my new Tundra V2. Seemed to go together ok,the only issue being flaps and alierons labelling was wrong. Also, I did not know that the 'Green' version has very light weight wheels compared to the sponge wheels of my orange version. I also carried out a suggested mod on another forum, of strengthing the nose area with two rods glued each side of the fuse, other than using a APCe 12*6 prop it is the stock up. Even configuring prop reversal for when using the included floats seemed to work ok on the ESC. For those interested the drive train motor and ESC are stock with a 3S 2200 30C Turnigy and an APCe 12*6 prop. Weight is 1306 gms, and power is 362W 33A on my watt meter, so just below the ESC rating which should be ok in flight. Hope to maiden when restrictions allow.

The E-Pioneer is a good starter model which I still have - lots of info in the forum and also there have been some build articles in RCME too.

Hi Simon - I was in the same position as you , but have since logged into the BMFA site and under My Proflie/MemberDetails/Additional Details, I have found the CAA OP ID and the next renewal date. If not already done so maybe worth a check.

My experience with HK film, is that it requires a higher iron temperature than Solarfilm. Also the yellow film which I used to cover my Acrowot faded very quickly.

I have one of these for my DX6i which fits OK.. The only bit I did not realize was that the front of the case is quite a sturdy stiff material but the back of the case is a soft material. But I guess the TX sticks require protection from the front of the case.

Check out the E-Pioneer too, also been the subject of some articles in RCM&E.

Hi Matt, I too have a Slec FunFly electric version and am struggling a bit with the C0fG setup. Can I ask if you measured the CofG with the model in the normal flying position or was it inverted. Many Thanks

Sorry please ignore my previous post for the Musketeer powetrain - which was for a different model Dohhh. My Musketeer has an Eflite P32, APCe 12*8, 4S3600 30C Turnigy JP EnErG ESC 60A with an AUW of 2312 gms

My powertrain uses an Emax 2832/05 motor, 80A HK ESC, and 13*6.5 APCe prop. The LiPo is a 4S3600 30C Turnigy and the two wing servos are HS225MG. The Musketeer has an AUW of 2334 gms, hope this helps. As with some conversions the difficult bit is how to mount the LiPo. The Musketeer has a wide fuselage so not to difficult to insert a flat ply plate and glue some under rails. On top of the ply plate I use velcro stuck to the plate and the LiPo lies on top of the ply plate, also secured with a velcro strap (belt and braces !!). The longish ply plate provides plenty of 'slide room' for setting CofG. To load the LiPo can be done by removing the top hatch that includes the canopy and pilot included.

I also did similar of putting servos in the wings for aileron control and a steerable nosewheel.

I have one and finished it a few weeks ago. Its an electric conversion but I have not maidened it yet. Soon I hope.

I too use an ATX computer PSU. The beauty of which has its own wiring loom and connectors already attached to the loom. I just pick out the 12v rail and connect to my charger.