Ron Harrison

Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.

Yes it is correct and necessary. Washers behind the engine mount will suffice. If Chris Foss designed it with then who are we to argue? A lot have been sold over the years so it must be right! Never had any problem with mine. Nor has anyone else I know who has built one.

Thanks Chris. You are a star R

Searched all over but cannot find the Video on YouTube. Can someone give me the Link please, before I tear out the last bit of hair I have! Pretty please R

Suggest you contact Multiplex Direct. I had to purchase a replacement Canopy hatch on my Easy Glider. Cost me 5€ including postage. Email them from their Web Page at http://www.multiplex-rc.de/en/contact.html Ron

Have had a couple of Easy Gliders and have never had a problem with the Servo Leads coming adrift in normal flight. Neither the Electric version or the Slope/Flat Field one. Should you have a 'sudden arrival', it is advantageous that the leads separate I have found. I think you are worrying unnecessarily Peter Ron

By all means go to Weston Park on Saturday but what about Cosford Air Day on the Sunday? Fathers Day you know. Doesn't get much better with a whole Flying weekend at adjacent venues R

Just use WD as it was made for, Water Displacement. The other oily bits in it help to prevent Rust forming on the Rear Bearings, at least that is my idea, rightly or wrongly!? Always give the Cyclinder a good flush with fuel, before running though.     Edited By Ron Harrison on 13/06/2012 15:46:47

What about using WD40 as an 'After run' Lubricant? R

Get a severe rattle type noise when on Low Revs., which disappears upon  opening the throttle. Have checked the Prop in case it was out of balance but nothing! Any thoughts would be appreciated. R     Edited By Ron Harrison on 29/05/2012 15:04:28

No problem with joining the wings. Do it gently and with a little wiggle. Could be binding on the Spar so, put a bit, a wipe over with a cloth dampened with it, of Silicon, Back to Black, or Furniture polish. Put the Spar into one Wing, either will do, the Female first is what I used, and fit that into place and then the other, as suggested. It will ease up after a few Dismantles etc. I know because I had the same problem. Better tight than wiggly Ron

The Cruet is always there at a B & B, or Hotel, and is there if you need it! To Activate Flaperon Mixing (Futaba 6EXA):- 1. Connect the Aileron Servo in the Starboard Wing to Channel 1 (Aileron) in the Rx and the Aileron Servo in the Port Wing to Channel 6 (Flaps) in the Rx 2. Enter Programming Mode and access the W.MIX using the MODE Key. 3. Push the DATA INPUT Lever until FP is displayed on the Screen. Now the Mixing is on. The Servo travels will automatically be reduced to 60% & 40%, but full servo throw will still be achieved when the Aileron Stick and the flap control are moved to their full extremes. 4. Once this mix has been activated, move the servos to their full extremes to make certain they are not overdriving the controls. If necessary, adjust the linkages to achieve the correct control throws. If you need a copy of the Manual, send me a Private Message, with Email Details, and I will send you a PDF. Never used the facility but, have always used Ailerons in Channels 1 & 6, so the 'Crow/Flap' Facility is always there. The knob on my Tx has a Lever which slips over the knob to 'limit' the travel. Hope this helps. Ron

I have the same combination and use Spoilerons/Crow Braking. You do need Channels 1 & 6 on the Receiver for each Aileron Servo. Cannot seem to find my TX Manual at the moment but will Post again when I have found where I have put it for safe keeping!! Ron

These Emails are part of an ongoing Scam regarding 'Closure of Accounts' etc. Most organisations do not send this kind of communication and do no ask for customers to log in in this way. No matter how many warnings are given out, about not responding, people still get taken in. You have to be extremely careful as there are so many hitting the system. RJH

Best place, I have found, to check out this sort of thing is to do a Search on:- http://www.snopes.com  Usually pretty reliable and informative. Ron

Same old Same old!   Just because it has a motor, it does not have to be flown like a 'Normal' Aircraft, after all it is a Glider!   Appreciate that you have to do the 'Fly-bys' but how about a pure Gliding sequence for a change?   R @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

I think it is a great Idea but, can we have it somewhere else other than the Southeast? Maybe it has been tried before but, who is to say that it would go into a Spiral Dive again!! Most other organisations have National Centre so why not Model Flying, there are enough of us about.  Ron

Thanks Peter, just thought I would ask, even though here was nothing on the Plans, I surmised that 0-0 would be the answer. Not having built from a plan before I am quite enjoying myself. Also giving my brain a bit of a work out, as I am Retired. Ron

Peter,  Does the Engine installation require Thrust adjustment please, or should I just fit, and hopefully, forget? Ron

My Free Plan Fournier is coming along a treat however, not having access to bending technology, where can I get the Wire Undercarraige from? I could, at a pinch, create something from Wire but, Steerable Noselegs, of which I have a couple, are not long enough where it attaches to the Bulkhead. The Spring Area is the 'Stumbling Block' otherwise I could possible fabricate from an old Trainer Main U/C Leg  Suggestions please, and not on a Postcard thanks! Ron  

Can anyone advise me as to how you set up a Fuelling Valve.  I bought one at the LMA Cosford Show but there are no Instructions!  I have 'sussed' out the fact that only one of the Nipples is open, for filling I guess, and was wondering what the other one is for, as it appears to be a Blank!?   Cheers for any information  Ron     Edited By Ron Harrison on 29/07/2011 14:05:13

Whilst I wholeheartly agree with the comment about old plans do not show wood requirements but we all have to start somewhere!

If you only have a Plan with the Starboard Wing details, which is the best method for building the Port one? Ron

Thanks for the information Peter. The Spoilerons was only a thought that you have now put out to grass. Thanks for that also. Simon B - The WW Fournier is not that bad. Only 14" less Wingspan but it flies a treat on a Leccy Setup and stays aloft almost as long as you want it to.  I built the original kit, with the mods for Ailerons. Dropped a box and squashed the wings so bought a Wing Kit. There was no problem as the basic Fuz. design was virtually the same!  Ron

As a new 'from Plan' Builder, can anyone confirm that, apart from the Rudder & Elevator being Soft Grade Balsa, the rest of the build, apart from Liteply & Wing Spars, on the 'Free Plan', could be from Medium Grade wood?   The reason for asking is that I have no stock of wood so I am starting completely from scratch.   Going to consider making the model for Electric Power, to maximise air time, so any extra information, i.e Motor & Prop, for use with either 2s or 3s 2200mah Li-pos would be appreciated.   How about programming the Ailerons as Flaps or for Crow Braking?    Thanks   Ron Edited By Ron Harrison on 20/06/2011 10:02:35