robert chamberlain

My Optic 6 Sport transmitter has , in my opinion, a hard to understand manual, or is wrong in some cases. It is version 1.0. I wonder if there is a later version written with more clarity ? Maybe a 2.0 or possibly someone out there has taken to re writing it as a project? ---Of course, there is the possibility that it is just mal functioning and never did work right out of the box.--Anyone out there have the same issues?

Well, all is well with my Optic 6 switch. Remember I said that the switch felt cheep and flimsy. The issue was that the gray switch really just went down into the radio and flipped the real switch. I carefully pulled it off and underneath was this real switch. I doubt there was a MM of slop between the real switch and the external slider. I am not even going to bother to glue them together. All is well now. It is even safer as the real switch is in further into the case and harder to accidently turn off. Your mileage may vary. Bob

I would like to get in contact with Mike Ridley about the switch on my Hitec. Anyone have an address, E-mail or phone number? Thanks.   Edited By David Ashby - Moderator on 26/11/2020 10:02:07

I bought a Hitec Optic 6 trans and am having a problem with the on/off switch. Turns on OK , but just the slightest pressure on the switch shuts it off. Also the switch seems rather loose and really a bit cheap looking. Rather loose up and down as I move it. Anyone have a similar issue? Bob

So,-----I am still confused on Laser identification. Just what do the model numbers mean? If I see an add for 180 it means nothing to me. What is it referring to?

Hello,--- what I am looking for is the Swan-Morton V blade which fits in the SELC balsa stripper. It is about 2 and 5/8 inches long and works a treat in the device. (70mm). It fits nicely although others can be made to work. Selc sent me 3 spares earlier this year, but as I am working with some hard wood I was wanting to stock up. Any ideas for maybe a 12 pack?"-------------------------Bob

Hello,--- what I am looking for is the Swan-Morton V blade which fits in the SELC balsa stripper. It is about 2 and 5/8 inches long and works a treat in the device. (70mm). It fits nicely although others can be made to work. Selc sent me 3 spares earlier this year, but as I am working with some hard wood I was wanting to stock up. Any ideas for maybe a 12 pack?"-------------------------Bob

People, somewhere out there, while surfing the web , I did see an add for "GO SLOW". which seemed to solve this issue. I will try to find it and report back,------------------- Bob

Hello, Will my Hitec 6 Optic run other brands of receivers or do I have to stay with Hitec all around?---Bob C

Hi folks, This foam thing is new to me. Is Obechi over foam and then glassed a good idea? Just how much does the glass really do to the strength ?. I glassed a balsa sailplane once just to protect it from landing and got carried away and did the whole thing. I did it by rolling a toilet paper roll (not rubbing) over the epoxy, pressing it all together. That wasted a lot of epoxy and T.P., but, what the heck ,I "borrowed" it from work anyway. So does the glass add strength , or just protect it from "hanger rash"? I would imagine SLEC has Obechi. On to a new challenge! Bob in Kansas

Hi, Beth, The last copy I have received is the April edition,---any thoughts?---Bob Chamberlain.   Edited By David Ashby - Moderator on 06/09/2020 06:38:03

Won't 2 batteries plugged into 2 receiver ports fight each other if one fails? That is without diodes? Bob C

For just filtering air born sanding dust I just bought a 20" square window fan (3 speed) and taped on a furnace filter to the intake. I have to stand maybe no more than 3 ft away but on LOW, the filter works OK. If the fan speed is too high, it just sucks the dust right on through the filter. I tried putting the filter on the exhaust side but then again, the fan , on HI just pushes the dust right through. Maybe a better quality filter? Bob C

I tried an experiment with "SHOE-GOO' , a product sold to help repair sneakers. I figured it might even help with vibration. WELL, if you use a dap of it to glue a servo to wood,--you will NEVER get it apart. Bob C

I am not going anywhere. I am just really enjoying building inside and , so far, mail ordering supplies has worked out OK. Let's see,--have fun outside and maybe die,--OR--stay inside and have fun and live. Good thing I am an introvert and get along fine with my family. Bob C

hello, I have decided to try Robart hinges for a change. The problem I have come up against is that the pilot hole suggested really results in a sloppy fit. If I put the hinge in this hole it will just fall out. I am trying smaller drills to find the optimum size. As I see it, when you push it in, it should be hard to pull out, right? ---Regular wood glue OK? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks

I finally found the "Go Slow" unit I was referring to before. Go to Sonic-Tronics / Mcdaniels R/C for several units they have. I think it was originally for gear and flaps ,but it may solve the jarring power of the motor on start up with a folding prop. Might give them a call in case I am wrong on this.-----Bob C

Reference my last post, I will do some checking as to where I saw the Go-Slow and post the location if I can find it again. Maybe I can, maybe not, but I will search tomorrow. ---------------Bob C

Hi, I may be off track here(done that before) but there is a product called "GO-SLOW". A small box , a little bigger than a receiver which allows something like the flaps, controlled by a two or three position switch, to realistically go up or down at a scale speed.

I guess you are looking for the original 2 5/8" long blades for the balsa stripper that ran in the U shaped channel secured to a board. If you can get through to SLEC, the stock # is SLO 47 A-S. They come in a 3 pack) might as well get two packs!) Let me know how it goes. Bob C.---

I guess you are looking for the original 2 5/8" long blades for the balsa stripper that ran in the U shaped channel secured to a board. If you can get through to SLEC, the stock # is SLO 47 A-S. They come in a 3 pack) might as well get two packs!) Let me know how it goes. Bob C.---

another interesting one is the HP VT which I think is still sold by MERCO.4 stroke but no valves , rocker arms , springs in the traditional sense . A geared rotating shaft uncovers and covers intake and exhaust holes. Small muffler and very quiet

Hello all,--Many years ago the folks who made the gentle lady( Carl Goldberg?) also made a clone called the "Electra" -basically a GL with a much wider fuselage . I still have mine but gave up trying to fly it on 7 NiCads and a car motor. Master Airscrew made a 3 to 1 gear box witch snapped onto the front of the bat (which raised the thrust line somewhat) but by that time I had gone back to IC engines, never having tried that combo. After having messed around with a GL, I decided it would just be easier to go find my dust covered Electra. I have heard that so many have easily convert a GL to electric I guess I could go either way. Nah, I'm going Electra! I have not seen the Electra kit in a long time but did see a GL kit for $65 recently in a Hobby shop last January-------Bob B.

for positive G reinforcement I would think carbon ribbon would be glued to the bottom of the spar,---yes? Bob C

Tosh, I got mine at a medical supple house. I am interested to know just how big a model ( weight/ wingspan) you could launch with the 1/4 inch tubing? I was just gifted a reel of 25 feet and 100 feet of string. Here in the "fly over states" the only option is to go electric launch. Bob C