robert chamberlain

Andy, I am building a Quaker myself but a little smaller then your job. Mine is from a U.S. kit manufacturer who is trying to reproduce some of the older kits,--you know, box of wood, plans, some wire,--. I am not familiar with the idea of reeds. Is it not balsa? I was planning on steamed thin balsa for the curves. I am using the same type of hinges, and as on yours they go right through the wood. I have added extra pieces of balsa strip for more support. On the gear, I thought I would also try a small spring instead of the rubber band. As for power, I am planning on an OS 15 or an HP-VT 21 4 stroke, the latter a bit heavier rather than added lead. I think Trexler or similar, wheels would look neat oldtimy -------------Bob C in Kansas.

I've got an HP VT also which will go on a Flying Quaker. The instructions say it needs a high concentration of castor oil to help seal the valve assembly. In your experience Dave does this gum up the insides too much? Also, it looks like those are Trexler wheels,---are they still available ? Bob C in Kansas

I've got an HP VT also which will go on a Flying Quaker. The instructions say it needs a high concentration of castor oil to help seal the valve assembly. In your experience Dave does this gum up the insides too much? Also, it looks like those are Trexler wheels,---are they still available ? Bob C in Kansas

I did have a problem with my Dremel which is at least 28 years old, but not electrical in nature. The motor has a splined output shaft and the end where all the cutting stuff is attached is a splined shaft. These two shafts are connected with a flexible vinyl tube. After all these years it came apart. My Dremel is so old the parts book did not even reference a part number. So , I got a short piece of vinyl tubing --3/8 OD and 1/4 ID --and pushed it onto the two splined shafts. Warming it up helped. Even thought it did not have any internal splines, it seemed to be a pretty tight fit. I have used it this way for several years to do the usual stuff like cutting music wire etc and it has held up so far.--------Maybe through the years this is a common part, who knows? I took a wild guess and ordered a Sears part #2-615-294-309-760 and it turned out to be exactly the same part. Don't take my word for it as this was 4 years ago and Sears in the US is having problems. Do your research as it was a non returnable part. --$3 for the part and $12 shipping! I had to buy the tubing by the foot , so now I have 10 inches left over. ---A 15 cent investment for the future! I think today I will be building inside as it is 22 F outside. Bob in Kansas

I have always been told that theses dry powder types had an anti- coagulant agent mixed in to prevent them from turning into a solid cake. Don't know if this is true or not but tomorrow I am going out side to blow a 10 year old one to find out for sure. It is a slow day and I am retired ,always looking for the "fun factor" in life. In fact, I have always used a hard rubber mallet to bang on them from time to time to try to break em up. Got the mallet years ago to install hub caps securely on my car. I'll try discharging that on too. Time will tell, -------------Bob

As I understand it, with a torque rod set up, the end has a 90 degree bend which is pushed into the aileron. Wouldn't this eventually wear out this hole and make for a sloppy surface? Should extra wood be put, top and bottom to reinforce it? It is possible that I have a complete misunderstanding of the whole thing! I am looking at a set of plans that are over 25 years old when a servo was relatively expensive and one in each wing could add up the $$$

as I understand it, power panels are powered by a 12 V battery which drop it down to something that can be used to light a glow plug. If I were to make up a cable that was connected to my 12V sealed battery and run it to my glow plug,-----what size/type resister would I wire into one lead of said cable to drop the voltage????

I have a new 6 volt Rec system so wouldn't a 2 cell Life batt be too high? Also, my 5 cell nickel pack is OK at 6 volts but comes off the charger at 7 plus volts. All this OK to use?

Hello,--I just mailed in my renewal with a Visa payment for RCM&E. On the top and back part of the renewal paper , where it says "3 easy ways to renew or upgrade", the post address ends in Northampton NN47BF. Being a Yank, I thought that last part identified the city and country. The post office took a wild guess and filled in "England". Now while looking at the front side of said paper, it does indeed say " UK: 0344 243 9023" which I failed to put in the address. Do you think it will ever get to you? Before I finish bothering you, I really would like clarification on the phone # I need if I ever need to call. One of the numbers is in parenthesis. Do I use or skip it? Thank you, Robert Chamberlain   Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 08/11/2018 08:29:26

Another senior moment ,--as I understand it, when I plug in a 5 cell NiMH to my charger, It recognizes the cell count. I have my doubts as to how much it is being charged with a 5 MV peak setting. So--I decided to run a discharge cycle to see just how much of a charge it was getting. The charger wants to know how low I should set the voltage to. Do I set it to the voltage of the total pack, or to the individual cell voltage of 1.2? Thanks

I set my charger, when charging NiMh , to stop at 5MV. I'll run a capacity check to see if it is full tomorrow. If it is not , does anyone recommend a higher number? Maybe 6 or 7 Mv as the termination point? I don't want to cook it,--thanks

While we are on the subject of NiMH charging, what MV cut off point should I set for the peak termination?

I started with kits ( when they were quite common at the hobby shop) and now build from plans or modify existing A/C in my house.

Hello Barrry,--May I ask you what motor you used on the GL?

In my posting I forgot to mention the parachute. I made mine from the wrapper from the Sunday newspaper. I layed it out and cut a two foot circle . I then put the strings up and over what would be the top and down to the "O" ring hook that attaches to the glider. Then I taped the strings on to the top of the parachute to keep them in place. As you all know, this lays the tubing and string out down wind. As I fly I , obviously walk over to where it landed. Good exercise and a pleasant way to spent the day.

My home made bungee launch consists of 100 feet off surgical 3/8 o.d. tubing and 400 feet of good kite string. It has been several years since I used it but as I remember I walked back 80 steps for the launch. I am pretty sure of this 80 step idea but it could be a senior moment ! With this I would launch my Bird of Time with the line going straight up and the BOT sliding off easily.

I read in the August issue of RCM&E about a glider with a rather long fuselage where the servos might be a bit of a distance from the receiver. A "choke" was suggested to help,( with interference?) and I was wondering what it was and what ratings it might have. Any thoughts? ---------------thanks, Bob

I have been trying to contact Brian Winch via E-mail (Wizard of OZ) several times but the message keeps coming back as undeliverable . Any information on a good address? Thanks.

I have tried to E-mail Brian Winch (Wizard of Oz) several times about a question on my HP VT but the message keeps coming back as undeliverable . Any ideas about the correct address?

Concerning Tim's comment above: My question is, if using 2 batts plugged into the receiver, what would happen if one batt should fail? Wouldn't' the other batt try to feed into it? As I only have 6 ports on the rec, why couldn't I just use a "Y" extension, plugging the two batts into one end and then only having to use one rec port? If we are talking about a 2 cell LiFe batt, isn't that a little too high voltage? Every thing on my radio is 6 volts. Thanks for any input. Maybe I'll just go to NiMh--------Bob

Hello all,--I am new to LiFe battery technology and am uncertain as to the charge rate. AS luck would have it, my cell phone battery has one, rated at 5 volt and 1000MA and my wall charger says the same thing on the label. All new wall chargers for flip phones say 5 volts 2000 ma. Does this mean to imply that these batts can take a 2C charge rate? Of course, I do not plan on using this cell phone batt in an aircraft, but I was wondering if this was indicative of all LiFe batts?-------thanks in advance, Bob in Kansas

Hello all, I read an article from "The oily hand" and his comments about caster in 4 strokes.. I have 2 HP-VT four stroke rotary valve engines which say to run caster to better seal the rotating valve assembly. Any thoughts on just going to synthetic instead?-----------------Bob

I have used lead shot mixed with epoxy in the hollowed out nose of my sailplanes

While on the subject of connectors I have a quick question.---What about the Sermos or Anderson Power Pole type? I find the Sermos easy to solder up and safe to use however, I have no idea of the Amp rating. I have heard there are different Amp ratings available. I am getting into higher power applications and need to plan ahead. Thanks in advance,---Bob C

how about 4 mm plugs? I'm thinking battery to ESC. Bob C