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barryt

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  1. barryt
    Thank you gentlemen, your advice is much appreciated. The long snake inners sounds like the optimum solution in this case as access will be very limited after the fuselage is covered. I'd better get started!
  2. barryt
    Looking for some advice please. I have installed closed loop rudder systems before and I have seen the drawings explaining the geometry. My problem is with the elevator system. I can't find much helpful information. The Pup elevator control wires exit half way between the trailing edge of the lower wing and the leading edge of the stabiliser, but at a significant angle to the fuselage centre line. Using a vertically mounted servo, could I use bent tubes to change the angle of the control wires from the servo as they exit the fuselage? I am concerned about excess friction as there will be four tubes in total. How would I alleviate this? Could someone direct me to a resource showing how this should be done or suggest a better way of achieving a 'semi' scale solution?
  3. barryt
    Hi Bill, click on 'inbox', next to 'Settings' on the dark red menu bar at the top of the page.
  4. barryt
    Hi Bill. Check your PMs.
  5. barryt
    Hi all. Sorry about the delay in responding. Domestic issues getting in the way of my chosen hobby again. Using the ‘self isolation’ excuse at the moment! Taking a good look at the fuselage to see how a closed loop arrangement would work. I know it would look great and I would really like to pursue this solution. No issue with the rudder and I have done that before on other models. I am struggling with the elevator arrangement though. I traced the fuselage top and side view then added the ‘more or less’ scale positions, and angles, of the elevator control cables. It appears that the vertical mounted elevator servo ends up significantly aft of the CG. Not only that, the servo would end up in an inaccessible position. I guess one solution would be to mount a vertical swivel bar at the position where the elevator control cables converge and then drive that bar, using a pushrod, from a vertical servo mounted further forward. This will add complexity and make it awkward to attach, and tension, the control cables. Before I go any further, is this the way it should be done? Does anyone have a simpler solution? John, check this video for the removable front end. **LINK** I think I will use a similar mounting method but I will have to place the battery in the fuselage instead of the cowl. Looking forward to your responses.
  6. barryt

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  7. barryt

    barryt posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  8. barryt

    barryt posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  9. barryt
    Yes Don. I think that front access is going to be the best solution. The esc can live there too. I would like to build a dummy motor so I will have to hide the hinge and fixings accordingly. Luckily,my model can remain in one piece for storage and transport so I have made provision for some rigging wires as well. If I can hear them whistling, I am flying too fast! This and removal of the undercarriage, will make removal of the bottom wing for servo access awkward but I guess servos, once setup, rarely need attention. I'll add a bottom hatch aft of the F3 frame for easy receiver access. Yes that is aft of the CG but I can move the servos even further forward to compensate. I'll use Sullivan snakes to control the tail surfaces. I won't then need an access hatch on the front fuselage which will make the finishing in that area much easier. One thing I have noticed is that most of the original Solarbo balsa in the kit is rock hard, easily splits and even splinters. Was it put in the box like that or is it the result of being stored in a warm dry climate for forty years?
  10. barryt
    Yes, a very timely thread John as I have just started putting together my own Mk1 Puppeteer as well. It will be electric as my club does not allow anything which makes any noise at all. Even pushers and ducted fans are banned!. We are holding on to a great site but is is very close to houses and we need to keep everyone happy. Seven years in and all is still well. Neighbors very supportive. I have collected and read info from several Puppeteer threads so I am aware of the potential CG issues. Cunningly I have left the fuselage construction until last which gives me lots of time to think (i.e. dither) about where to place the battery and how to access it. The optimum position for my 5S LIPO would be transversely across the back of the firewall on top of the front undercarriage mount. Unfortunately the structural fuselage side are not quite wide enough so surgery will be required if I decide to use this placement. Alternately an in line mount behind the firewall will be easier but the CG will move back a little. As far as battery access is concerned, I thought that I might make the whole of the front upper fuselage, from the cowl to behind the pilot, a removable hatch. The upper wing and strut mounts will still be in the way though.. Alternatively, I have seen a hinged double firewall arrangement which gives battery access through the front of the fuselage. I think my best bet is to make a mock up of the front fuselage from scrap and see what works best. I have completed the tail, elevators, fin and rudder. They are, as the rest of the model will be, covered in Sig Koverall. I made a couple of mods to the lower wing which is nearly ready for covering. Two aileron servos for practicality and some false ribs for fun. At least those on the upper wing will be ahead of the CG! If anyone has some ideas or advice it will be gratefully received. Delighted to see this enduring model remains popular today.. Edited By barryt on 05/03/2020 11:15:01
  11. barryt

    barryt posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  12. barryt
    Ordered from BG 1st November 2019. Queried the long wait a couple of times. Computerised response asking me to wait a little longer. The also told me that items were guaranteed to arrive within 90 days after which BG would investigate and refund. I was just about to request a refund when my package has suddenly arrived at customs. It will be with me within a couple of days. BG shipped to the carrier within hours of order. The courier was China EMS and this is where the delays originated. Can I blame BG? I don't think so.
  13. barryt
    Hi Bob, yes it looks like these products would work, but where I live they would push up the project price considerably. Besides, I can't see my wife allowing me to boil a couple of square meters of polyester in her kitchen.for an hour. I get dirty looks just wandering around the house smelling of dope!
  14. barryt
    Hi paul d. I think polyester is difficult to dye. Polyester is basically a type of plastic which will not absorb dyes meant for natural fibres. There may be specialised dyes available. Once I have sealed the polyester, I used a grey plastic etch primer and finished with a silver / grey top coat, both from rattle cans.
  15. barryt
    Google lightweight Vilene interfacing. Glue and shrink with dope. Does not shrink much with heat. Compound curves easily covered. Cost effective and worth experimenting with. Available at haberdasheries. Consult wife for further info.
  16. barryt
    Hi Tim. Thanks for the feedback and explanation. I recently started looking for a future Chipmunk project and came across your build thread which is excellent. I also came across this Bryant build thread which would certainly present a challenge for me. **LINK** A slightly simpler sport scale model would probably be my preference.
  17. barryt
    Following with interest. Does the SLEC Chipmunk have advantages over the Bryant Chipmunk from Sarik?
  18. barryt
    Many thanks Andy48 and Martin. Much appreciated. Hope to start mine in the Christmas break. There can't be many unbuilt kits around can there?
  19. barryt
    Hi Andy48. Do you have any pictures of the cowl hinging arrangement? Sounds like a worthwhile idea. What electric powertrain did you use?. Just collecting info at the moment. My plane is still in its box!
  20. barryt

    barryt posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  21. barryt
    Hi Morten, PM sent.
  22. barryt

    Moon landing

    barryt replied to J D 8's topic in Chit-chat

    I was 17 and managed to stay awake all night while staring at the largely inanimate black, white and shadowy tv pictures. Luckily, for me anyway, the advent of the internet and more recently Youtube channels, has shed light on some of the fascinating and innovative engineering that made the project so successful. I have just reread James Hansen's book First Man, It reveals that as a schoolboy Neil Armstrong was an Aeromodeller, building enough balsa and tissue models to fill his bedroom. He was issued a student pilots licence on his sixteenth birthday and soloed two weeks later. A special man indeed.
  23. barryt
    Hi Dwain. I guess you are waiting for some proper 'maiden' weather! So in the meantime I thought you might be interested in this. **LINK**
  24. barryt
    Nice reg! Best of luck with the maiden.
  25. barryt
    **LINK** Looks like Oracover recommend external antennae when using Chrome film. Shouldn't be a problem for you Dwain.
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