jrman

Just got some "bits" through SW Models this week which they had to order from Horizon first. All done in about 4 days including the weekend. Horizon have been doing a stocktake which may have delayed a few items being dispatched.

Why don't you just try it and see? On the ground of course.

Try Fairy Power Spray. It removes burnt on castor from silencers so it's worth a try.

I fill mine with expanding foam then cut the height to suit; paint with Humbrol enamels and glue in with epoxy. Doesn't add any appreciable weight especially in that model.

No problems with insurance cover. See BMFA statement on their website.

Century Jet from FighterAces are very good but not cheap!

Good idea to iron it flat (no steam! ) but use "3M Magic Tape". It is used in drawing offices to repair torn drawings and does not go brittle and come unstuck with age like Sellotape does.

40 inches from each wing panel if I recall. That's even more sad!

Not sure where you're looking but when I checked the BMFA site it was correct. The CAA changed the Article numbering a few years ago and the older BMFA handbooks refer to these previous references. Anyway I think the intent of the Articles are of more importance than how they are numbered. When I'm testing any candidate I'm not looking for a "Parrot fashion" answer but a good understanding and comprehension of what is intended. Good luck with your A test.

ANO articles as follows: Art 166 - Small unmanned aircraft..... Art. 137 - Endangering aircraft..... Art 138 - Endangering persons or property........

Try the Just Engines on board glow. It's fit and forget.

I'll try that out. I've used Fairy Power Spray in the past which has also worked very well.

Possibly based on a Brian Taylor 109. Cowls are available from another well known web site.

Sounds like you hadn't set the failsafe correctly.

Have you looked at the photographs on the TN web site? They show this area very clearly.

It's worth talking to Phil at Fighteraces as other colours and mixing advice is available. He's a very helpful and knowledgeable fellow.

Try "Warbird Colours" or "KlassKote" from Phil at Fightertaces.**LINK**

I always use shrinking dope over Solartex and confirm it does tauten further after heat shrinking. The longest lasting model using this technique lasted about 18 years until it succumbed to a mid air. The covering was still taut to the end.

The "wax" is used as a means of reducing the emission of volatile vapours as the resin cures. It does not assist in the bonding of subsequent coats, in fact it does quite the opposite and should be removed before applying any further resin. An easy way of doing this is with "wet & dry" paper using IPA (isopropyl alcohol) as the wetting medium. You'll know if you haven't done it well enough as you will get "fish eyes" in the subsequent coats. Don't confuse Laminating Resins and Finishing Resins, they are both prepared for different purposes.I have found that excess thinning ( >25%) will reduce the effectiveness of most finishing resin systems.

Use Isopropyl Alcohol. You can get it from your friendly chemists.

Listed on the SIG website.**LINK**

Try this.**LINK**

It's caused by gyroscopic precession induced by the rotating mass of the motor. Correct it with right rudder during take off.

I agree with Simon. Clark Y at the root and symmetrical at the tip will accentuate tip stalling at increased AOA. Exactly the opposite of what you intended. Use symmetrical at the root with Clark Y at the tip to give the effect of washout.