Jump to content

SkippyUK

Members
  • Posts

    310
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by SkippyUK

  1. I bought a HK F4U Corsair Funfighter in their recent sale just for a bit of fun but..... On assembly and initial static testing with Watt meter, the ESC blew on first raising of throttle. Was so quick to blow I didn't see the actual amps being pulled but just before it stuttered it was pulling 15A on a supposedly 20A HK ESC. Reason for post is What size ESC should be used with;- Prop: 5.5x4.5 Motor: 2825-1950kv Brushless outrunner motor ESC: 20A High-Spec 3~4S (claimed by HK!!) Battery: 850mAh 4S 45C Lipoly I've tried the online configurators but I've got inconclusive results - I've not used them before..... Anybody got any thoughts on this? BTW, I'm waiting for HK to replace the ESC (I'm confident they will even if it takes a while) patience is king!. Skippy
  2. Lets put some perspective on this before the scaremongers make Mt. Everest out of a few kg. of carbon fibre and some sensational reporting. 1. From studying the video and the text, nobody was seriously hurt and all walked away albeit with sore heads 2. People going to this type of event must have already accepted some risks as the bulls are NOT Rc controlled and can (and do) do very unpredictable things.. 3. I suggest that the multi copter was NOT being flown by your average hobbyist but by a professional outfit to get sought after footage for advertising etc.by overflying hundreds(maybe thousands) of people and is very different to a hobbyist flying at the patch or even around deserted monuments - I would hope that any hobbyist would assess all risks and not attempt anything like this. 4. Why do the 'organisers' not know who was filming at the event? - is it to avoid litigation? For the above reasons I doubt if the 'Fun Police' would even link this to our hobby. It may of course result in a tightening of rules and regulations on flying drones over peoples heads but this is surely only reinforcing what common sense should dictate is a no-go area?   Just musing, Skippy p.s. - BEB - this video has trending on several boards so it's no secret. Edited By SkippyUK on 27/08/2013 18:31:38
  3. I'm seriously considering one of these for the wireless buddy and (hopefully) the twin aerial making it rock solid connectivity. Maybe I'll then get SWMBO to come flying with me or............. Skippy
  4. Finaly got around to getting it all out the box and there's no instructions - must've been missing from when I bought it as the box was still sealed from new. Anybody got a set they can scan for me please or got a link to an online set - none of the old links I've found in various forum still work. Bumpy Green have good build thread but the original instructions would help a lot. Skippy
  5. Hope it's not too far off topic but looking at all the pictures in this thread and comparing them to my HK Storch, Durafly haven't done too bad a job of producing a cheap RTF replica of this iconic aircraft. My experience of flying it also mirrors the comments in the thread - ground looping, slow aileron response etc.. Wish I had the time atm to build a proper kit but unfortunately I have to rely on RTF's. I congratulate and envy you all for your building skills. Skippy
  6. Some give the impression only Spektrum TX's have RF boards changed. Nice to hear this is not true. Skippy
  7. I'll 2nd that on the Storch - mine flies better about 10mm further forward and benefits from a bit of down thrust as well. Skippy
  8. Tim, I too was advised to put a simple fuel filter in the return pipe (and I do on all of them) but it wasn't to filter anything out but to give an easy way of changing the last 3" of 'dirty' tube without taking the tank out!!!. 'orses for courses.... Skippy
  9. Steve, only way to prove people right or wrong is to keep up the posts as you go along - good or bad. I'll be following and willing you to succeed but have to agree on the advice about a club even if it's only to get building advice for those tricky bits where the plan and instructions don't seem to quite match. Skippy
  10. To put it in perspective, over the course of an entire tank full's use, only just more than the tank volume of exhaust gas actually goes along the pipe (unless there's a leak or breather system) and at so slow a velocity, most of the oil would probably settle on the pipe walls and run back into the silencer or to the lowest point which may give the impression that loads of oil is going along the pipe - they always look dirty near the silencer due to this effect. The tanks are not pressurised that much so don't need a lot of exhaust gas 'pumped' in. Keep asking the thought provoking questions. Skippy
  11. I use a LIDL powered fret saw with wavey blade on 2mm or course pitch on 6mm. It's a balancing act between cutting slow enough so as to not chip or break blades but quick enough to put the heat into the sawdust - go too slow and it all melts together from friction. Blades make a big difference - blades with pitched or wavey pitch that cut a slot wider than the blade work best. I also use the fretsaw for cutting Depron with course blade as well - I'm not good with a stanley knife..... Skippy p.s. despite the comments in the above link, loads of different types of blade are available   Edited By SkippyUK on 13/08/2013 17:47:59
  12. Vin, how many turns did it work out as? We'll all know then.........
  13. What RX is it with 2 lights? I've taken to switching TX on AFTER RX on Orange 710's or I get an orange flashing light. Still seems to work OK with flashing light but this way of switching on cures it. Skippy
  14. Comes from one of my other hobbies but i've used one of these before or a smaller one. Justa thought.... Skippy Edited By SkippyUK on 08/08/2013 12:41:52
  15. StuartC, what camera are you using - detail and focus seem great and little image breakup. I've got a few 'keyfob' cameras but want to go to nextstep without going overboard on size and weight. Skippy
  16. I remember having quite a discussion many years ago about centering. At the time the digital resolution was 1024 steps so 512 steps was regarded as centred. The discusson centred (excuse the pun !) on whether correcting the trim by using subtrim meant that the default failsafe position of 'centred' was in fact 512 steps OR 512+/- subtrim. At the time it was tested with Futaba and the centering was 512 steps so after trimming using either subtrim or trim levers, I always mechanically adjusted things to make centre just that - the round servo 'arms' were great for this to get centre at 90 degrees to control rod to give predictable and even travel. These more inteligent RX's might sort it all out now but i still do it.... Skippy
  17. IMHO, everybody should have a small wing in their collection for sheer fun and keeping the reactions and orientation skills up. A bit of friendly combat really does improve the coordination skills and all these foamies bounce well and are so unlikely to cause any damage to anything. Skippy
  18. Pete B, if I read it correctly, if the Preset Fail Safe Mode was set when the plane first bound then IF the trim corrections were up elevator then on signal loss the trim would be removed and the plane would tip nose down? However if the Smartsafe mode was used (the old way!) then if signal was lost then the throttle would go low but surfaces stay in curent position - probably a bit of up seeing as it's a take off. Don't know about the foam Wot 4 but my balsa IC one don't suddenly nose down when power is reduced so it does look likely that the nose down was commanded by the RX for whatever reason. There are of course lots of other things that would make it nose down; CofG, the last command before total loss of signal etc. etc...... andyh, I'd discuss this with the instructor and anybody else who was watching, it might throw something more up before you go on a wild goose chase - it it is a TX problem (with either TX), sooner you find out the better. Skippy
  19. Horses for courses but the Visionaire is not designed to be ballistic!!! Some have upped to 4s which either makes it heavier or shorter battery life from smaller mAh to maintain battery weight. I find mine oscillates a lot at high speed (i.e in a dive etc.) but I've not touched the gains from out of the box. I now find I can do a bit more 3D type flying with my other planes as it gives you confidence and practice. Skippy
  20. I was buddying using a DX6i slave and DX8 master when the trainee walked away a bit and pulled the plug half out - the model went crazy but all was restored when i released the button as would be expected. What type of buddy lead you using? I have an 'official' spektrum one with 3 pole plugs (3 rings) but most others I've seen use 2 pole (tip and one ring) but I don't know what the 3rd connection is for as I've biuddied with a 2 pole lead with no perceptible difference. The one half pulled out was a 3 pole btw. Also were/are the TX batteries a good fit in the battery trays? - just thinking of recent probs reported but as it was a new plane then it could be anythng.... Skippy
  21. Totally agree. Quite easy to repair and spares are not that expensive either (the urge to do low level high alpha 3D is just too great!!!). Skippy
  22. Posted by Stephen Jones on 05/08/2013 18:20:57: How long will it be before someone builds a Rc model of one of those , i reckon Dusty is favourite . My Kidz what to see this film so i guess i will be seeing it too .   They've already started     Edited By SkippyUK on 05/08/2013 20:51:18
×
×
  • Create New...