Robert Cracknell

I use to have to mow large areas of leisure grass and I found the best option was a large petrol powered Flymo. It did not pick up the grass rather it chopped it fine to mulch the existing lawn. It didn't leave any clumps like other rotary mowers, particularly if the grass was wet and was easy to keep sharp. Cutting height was simply spacers above the blade. Mine cut short enough for models. Sure, you don't get any stripes but you don't have boxes and boxes of grass to empty either. I bought the mower (20" cut) at an auction of non collected items at a local garden machinery repairer for £20.

Thanks Peter.....

As a die hard balsa basher I'm not yet into the modern materials but I need some help. I need to find someone who can supply carbon fibre tube 7.5mm O/D. It's not modelling related but needed for the lance on a pressure sprayer. All the web comes up with is whole mm sizes only. As usual any and all help greatly appreciated.

I said "What do you charge?" She said "£20 if you make your own bed" I said "Seems fair" so she chucked me some timber, hammer and nails!

Looks like an interesting site. Each time I select the Union flag I get French though!

Reminds me of the Jeeves and Wooster golfing joke.... Wooster "How do you think I should play the next shot Jeeves ?" Jeeves " Under an assumed name Sir"

... and add to this the exorbitant Town centre parking costs and the problems in having to use a parking app. Wilko should open some out of town stores!

Full version of Zflyers post.... Here are some actual maintenance complaints submitted by US Air Force pilots and the replies from the maintenance crews. “Squawks” are problem listings that pilots generally leave for maintenance crews. Problem: “Left inside main tire almost needs replacement.” Solution: “Almost replaced left inside main tire. Problem: “Test flight OK, except autoland very rough.” Solution: “Autoland not installed on this aircraft.” Problem #1: “#2 Propeller seeping prop fluid.” Solution #1: “#2 Propeller seepage normal.” Problem #2: “#1, #3, and #4 propellers lack normal seepage.” Problem: “The autopilot doesn’t.” Signed off: “IT DOES NOW.” Problem: “Something loose in cockpit.” Solution: “Something tightened in cockpit.” Problem: “Evidence of hydraulic leak on right main landing gear.” Solution: “Evidence removed.” Problem: “DME volume unbelievably loud.” Solution: “Volume set to more believable level.” Problem: “Dead bugs on windshield.” Solution: “Live bugs on order. Problem: “Autopilot in altitude hold mode produces a 200 fpm descent.” Solution: “Cannot reproduce problem on ground.” Problem: “IFF inoperative.” Solution: “IFF inoperative in OFF mode.” Problem: “Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.” Solution: “That’s what they’re there for.” Problem: “Number three engine missing.” Solution: “Engine found on right wing after brief search.”

Thanks for all your suggestions guys.... I have tried Acetone in the past but find that it evaporates before it can do any good. I will give some of the other suggestions a try.

Anyone found a Super Glue dissolver/de-bonder that actually works? I bought some medium super glue gel from my local discount store called 'Strong As An Ox' and it is what it says. The stuff is bomb proof. In time honoured fashion I got some where it shouldn't be and I need to remove it before it become obvious to SWMBO!! Any and all help appreciated.

In my previous life (I am now retired) I had to produce RAMS (Risk Assessments & Method Statements) to identify the risks and to set out procedures to reduce or eliminate the risk. For similar and sometimes repetitive tasks these took the form of tick box check lists somewhat similar to a cockpit check list. Done in this manner for a flying site it would prove useful and not too onerous. Minor amendments can be added for particular circumstances e.g. change of circuit due to wind direction or added risks like nearby farm activity for example.

Seems to be plenty of Irvine carbs of differing sizes on Fleabay.....can one if these not be used?

Depends how big a piece you require. I have successfully used soft drink cans opened up and annealed. Anneal by rubbing bar soap onto the surface and heat gently with a blowlamp until the soap turns black. The sheet can then be polished with fine scourer and then metal polish and usually cut with stout scissors to the shape required.

NATS is introducing a national low level frequency system for all aircraft. The idea is that the aircraft can broadcast routes, height and intentions etc with the idea of making low level flying safer. The channel assigned is 130.490 MHz and shall be known as the “LL-Common Frequency”. Details of the LL Common Frequency can be found in AIC P 047/2023

I am 68, have an enlarged heart, a pacemaker, type 2 diabetes and a daily dose of betablockers and steroids. I have had every Covid jab, boosters and flu jabs and can honestly say I have not even had a sore arm from any of them. Maybe I am either made of cast iron or just plain lucky!

Thanks Allan. Since posting, I have bought a copy of 'Electronics For Absolute Beginners' by Philip Dixon (Ebay 385584414673). So far really enjoying it and finding it very easy to understand. Keep up the suggestions everyone - all welcome.

Thanks Mike, a comprehensive resource...!!

Martin So far nothing has been said and it will not be. I am still keen to learn of others experience in learning basic electronics.

Yes..! Bit politically incorrect.

Having retired from a working life centred around mechanical and fluid engineering I would like to use some of my spare time trying to learn something about basic electronics. It would be useful later on to open the back of my Tx, servo or Rx and at least be able to identify components and what they do. I have not much beyond the mnemonic I learnt for resistor colour codes! I have re soldered the obvious dry joint in the past but that is about the limit. Is anyone out there self taught and how did you go about it? Can anyone recommend a 'Beginners guide to....' or the 'Dummies Guide to....' on the subject. Any and all help greatly appreciated

Perhaps someone from the glow powered car fraternity could enlighten us....?

Dave, tried a 1.5v Duracell - no better. Going to ditch it. Already ordered a sub c version.

Don I have a 2v Cyclon cell and a glow plug clip which also works fine. I just like the thought of no leads to get caught in the prop...!

Cuban/Martin See....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363868781809?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rwh8xfutrms&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=CojEOhFRSCq&var=633093336430&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL There are numerous ones on offer but I take your points on board.

Guys, I have one of the self contained glow plug starters that takes an AA battery. Has anyone got any advice on the best battery to use please? I have loaded mine with a new 2300mah AA cell from Lidl and fully charged it does not seem to have the grunt to light up a plug for more than a couple of seconds. It glows but quickly fades as if the cell cannot hold the current. I have checked it on 10 plugs in all and they were all the same and tried the other 3 cells from the pack - no different. Any suggestions appreciated....