Andy J

Thanks both.

PM sent Jeff

Seems to be plenty of SC25's available so how do these compare to the Enya 25's.

Total disaster today, was convinced I had two Enya 25SS but could only find one. Reluctant to start building the engine cowls until I at least have a matched pair. Do have two OS 20's but from previous posts this is not going to be enough for a 60inch model.

Want a low hours Enya 25 SS for a twin project I am currently building. Thought I had two but can only find one!

Tom, like the concept of some outboard thrust in the event of an engine failure so will try that set up. Model is I think a 12.5% increase on the original but as for a name yet to come up with anything. Power is going to be a couple of Enya 25's.

Been making a bit of progress the last few days with this build and will be installing the engine mounts next. The query I have is should I include a small amount of right thrust on a twin? Assuming little or no down thrust is required given the thrust line is below the wing.

What tools/methods do all use to make appropriate size slots for plastic hinges? Currently I use an adjustable square to determine the centre line of the stock which is marked as a short line then mark the width of each end of the slot. Then using a scalpel I attempt to cut a slot of appropriate depth. End result is far from a clean slot and always has to be enlarged to get the hinge to fit snuggle against the surface. Have tried using a Dremel disc cutter to cut the slot but this is generally ends up with a elongated slot and of insufficient depth. Second method which seems to work better is to use a fine drill to drill multiple holes which are then opened up using a scalpel. Sure there must be a better method.....burning a slot perhaps or ??

Well it was just a thought to replace the carb body as one of the screws that holds the spray bar has sheared off so have secured it in place with epoxy. Did find this carb body on ebay which possibly is for a 60 engine.

As requested Jon. Really need to know what ST carb this engine used and if the carb body spare I posted earlier is indeed correct.

Believe my engine to be a Laser 70 or possibly a 75 but cant be sure. Found this item but I am guessing if it is the correct body

Jon, was the extension air/fuel mixture intake tube fitted to ST carbs on older style Laser engines a standard item supplied by ST, or did you machine up a suitable tube? The reason I ask is that I would like to purchase a replacement carb body but the ones I have seen don't have the extension. Probably the next question is how was the extension tube secured to the carb body as it appears to be an interference fit.

Look in your local pages for offset-printers. Once used they sell them on for scrap.

Dakota at 300ft over Potters Bar N London yesterday, shame I was too slow with the camera

A laser 75 can be mounted inverted, providing a fully enclosed installation. Do recall I did indeed drop the tank to the lowest possible point which necessitated removing a bulkhead and sub floor.

Use this link to see stock holdings for RC products (including flite test products).

My Seagull Flybaby had an RCV58 in it originally which provided a very scale like flight performance. Upgraded the motor to a laser 75 which gives a more sprightly performance. Adding a scale cockpit is an easy mod for this model.

I paid £10 for my one yesterday in Kempston, Bedfordshire. Now need to decide if its a Christmas present for the great grand child who will be 5, or an early Christmas present for myself.

Its a real shame that kids today are not allowed to play with fires, climb trees, make explosives, have knives or anything else slightly hazardous. Not sure what they do for fun other than sitting in front of a computer screen until they are old enough to be let out alone.

Thanks Ron, yet to try them but they look good. Could have done with them yesterday as I was continuing to play around with my Playboy Senior which performed a vertical dive into the ground a couple of months ago. Yet to find the cause but did note that on loss of signal a small amount of down trim was present so have rectified that along with replacing the Rx.

Well after 6 days of fast starts, the issue of slow starts has returned!

Well getting close. Two harddrives work but the third throws an error and is not recognized at windows start up. PC is also booting quickly again....why I do not know but at least it works.

Paul, it is the BIOS that appears to have the issue. Problem got worse as went into the BIOS and let it set the optimised defaults for Boot and found it was then booting from an old version of windows found on one of the three hard drives I have connected. To make matters worse I could not direct it to select the solid state drive, so went in today and disconnected the two backup drives I had connected. Once the PC recognized the other two drives have gone it now appears to be booting correctly and for some reason the delay in booting has also disappeared. Will now try connecting the two back up drives and see what happens.

Thanks for the tip FlyinFlynn. Don't have an old PSU but certainly the 5v standby supply is running as I can see 1 LED illuminated on the Mother Board when in the lowest form of standby. Will take a look and see if any other LED's come on when I can see that the DOS has started which may indicate that the PSU is being held off for some reason.

Paul, what appears to be happening is that something is holding off the BIOS from starting, when I apply power using the computer on/off switch is that I get a message displayed on the monitor that no signal is connected. After about 1 min the monitor shuts down and goes into standby. After about 3 mins the BIOS starts along with the monitor coming out of standby displaying an option to jump into the BIOS by pressing F2. Then windows starts within a few secs and completes within 15 secs. To confound the issue if I turn off the mains supply to the Computer PSU and then turn it on after leaving it off for about 5mins is that the computer boots normally.