John Lee
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Everything posted by John Lee
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There are a number of different Dx7's going back over 10 years so without knowing which one you have I cannot answer your specific question. However in general: If the Transmitter was sold in the EU after Jan 2015 then it will transmit on DSMX only and will not operate AR500 DSM2 receivers. Altering the Region codes in the software will only change the transmitter's power output, not its modulation capability. If the Transmitter is capable of operating on DSM2 it will automatically adopt this modulation when you bind it to a DSM2 receiver. If the DSM2 receivers will not bind to your transmitter there is nothing you can do to force it to do so.
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Wonderful Peter, I could smell the castor & nitro impregnated on the rally jackets. Whilst I was at the other end of the country the parallels are such that it brought back many memories.
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It may be pertinent that the Bostik & HobbyKing Glue guns both use 7mm diameter glue sticks as opposed to 11mm often used in other makes. The smaller diameter requires less heat to melt (it has just over a third of the cross sectional area) & I would guess reaches a more even temperature than the thick ones & would therefore be less likely to string.
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The Universe Belongs to Me!
John Lee replied to Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator's topic in Chit-chat
From the Trademark Registration: "Description of Mark: The mark consists of the color chocolate brown, which is the approximate equivalent of Pantone Matching System 462C, as applied to the entire surface of vehicles and uniforms. The mark consists of the color brown alone. The broken lines indicate the position of the mark and do not form part of the mark." Trademarks apply only to the industry that they are registered with, so there is nothing to stop you using the colour for, say, a chocolate wrapper. Talking of which Cadburys lost a 10 year battle to trademark their purple last year -
Well I used a small, 25 year old, Bostik 13watt glue gun with no trouble on the Mini-Sportster! Mark in Canada used one of the HobbyKing guns that plug into a 3S LiPo which again was entirely adequate. Just use a small off-cut of foam board where you need to smooth the joint.
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I've a Mini-Sportster sat on my desk next to the computer. When visiting an old Club-mate in Canada a couple of years ago I helped him assemble one of the FliteTest models in his den. He had the instructional video (specific videos are available for all the models) on an iPad next to the bench & we paused and ran it forward & backwards as we assembled the model, which only took an hour or two. At the local fly-in the following weekend I won a Mini-Sportster in a raffle and I followed the same procedure when I brought it home. The FliteTest models are very popular over the Pond and are well proven, as is the recommended hot glue assembly. I'd recommend that you just follow the video, no need for any modifications or alternates, perhaps just practice a bit on some scraps of the foam board to get proficient with the hot glue technique.
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The incident happened just after the aircraft had landed, not whilst being charged.
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"The FES battery packs are removable for charging remotely from the sailplane. Each FES battery pack is built up from 14 Superior Lithium Polymer Battery (SLPB) cells, connected in series and contained within a carbon fibre battery box with a machined aluminium alloy cover plate/heatsink." from AAIB Special Report
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Reichard Model Gliders
John Lee replied to Andrew Moore 7's topic in Slope Soaring and Dynamic Soaring
I had a Reichard Baracuda for many years. It flew very nicely, initially as a slope soarer and latterly as a thermal soarer with electric motor conversion. I only sold it as it was a bit big to transport & rig and it was much easier to chuck a Multiplex Heron in the car. The wings were great, foam covered with a layer of glass cloth and then balsa, tough as old boots if a little heavy. Good quality fibre glass fuselage & balsa empennage. The downsides were inadequate canopy fixings, fiddly wing joining & unsatisfactory elevator control, as designed. The elevator was operated by a thin piano wire pushrod in an unsupported tube down a 1 meter long fuselage & through an 80 degree turn up the fin, which led to considerable free play & false neutrals. I replaced the arrangement with a slim servo in the fin. If my experience is anything to go by, be prepared to do the last 10% of the development yourself & you then end up with an excellent long lasting model. -
I bought & use an Antex 80 watt on EC5 connectors having found my 40 watt iron was not man enough for the job. I bought my Antex 15 watt iron (for electronic PC board work) when I was a schoolboy, I'm now retired & it is still going strong so that's my preferred brand. For other opinions there are numerous threads on the subject if you use the search field on the top right of this website.
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Multiplex EasyGlider - see the review of the latest version (Mark 4) in this month's Special Edition of the RCM&E.
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Another vote for the genuine Dremel original, you should only have to buy it once. My mains one is 40+ years old (as is my Dremel saw) & like Robin I have the 800 series LiOn cordless bought in 2008. I use the collets but having read the other comments will check out a chuck.
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Posted by Limobob on 20/10/2017 17:09:32: Thanks for that John. I will have another look but i believe the manual with my model just states 'glue' so again many thanks. The aerial idea is brilliant, i hadn't thought of that at all There may be different versions of the manual, I suspect this one that I quoted is for/by the UK importer.
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Epoxy does not work well on the EPO foam, it gives a superficial joint but can fail with repeated stress. The manual recommends Multiplex Zacki Cyno, as an alternate any medium cyno (preferably not foam safe - it's not needed on EPO) such as the green Zap will be fine. Can't help with your radio selection I'm afraid. As for cramming it in, yes it's not uncommon, but it's not good. On tight installations on small foamy's I tend to drill a 1mm hole & route the end of the aerial outside clear of all the gubbins.
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I'm just back from one of my regular visits to the RC Hotel Corfu. One of the many great benefits from these holidays is the chance to fly new models, with up to 30 different ones on offer there is usually something new that I have not flown before. Over the years most have performed as expected, there have been a fair few disappointments (one or two of which I had intended to purchase so saved a bit there!) and some that have exceeded expectations and led me to subsequently purchase (Ready 2, Black Horse Speed Air, ST Discovery, Sebart 50E to name but 4, so spent a bit there!). This year's revelation is the FMS Super EZ. Nothing to look at & I took it out (somewhat battered after a season's hard use) with low expectations. But what a delight to fly! Utterly viceless, nicely harmonised controls, dead stable but capable of mild aerobatics without a care in the world. A viable alternate to the WOTS & Riots for a knockabout model as well as a good basic trainer. Nice one FMS.
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I believe a JST-EHR balance connector was fitted on these. You could search for a dedicated board but it may be worthwhile getting one of the universal balance connectors such as this.
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Robert Super Stand made of foam so will not damage a foamy model
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If square edges are good enough for the fastest aircraft ever built..........
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Slough's website is back up & running this morning. Slough Radio Control Models is the trading name of Radio Control Supplies Limited. This is part of the same Group which owns Ripmax and the Group had a net value of just over £2.6million as of last December. Page 21 of the last accounts for the parent (Ultimate Model Corporation Ltd) filed at Companies House list all the Companies in the Group. All the information is available publicly via gov.uk Link to Accounts.
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Posted by Jon Laughton on 08/09/2017 09:51:32: Dumb question: is there an Autumn special planned this year with something like a TN design? Yes, next edition is the Autumn Special out 6 Oct with TN BAe Hawk plan. See this month's edition page 118.
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Brian I either repeatedly score the moulding with a new straight edged blade in the modelling knife or use a small pair of scissors to cut it. To finish I paint with plastic enamel or acrylic. Car paint may work but try on a scrap piece first. I would not recommend trying to cover with film, the cowl will distort with the heat of the iron. Something like Solartrim is self adhesive so is applied cold but will not go around compound curves.
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I regard Lipos as consumable items that are replaced when they wear out, just as glow fuel is replaced when consumed. For my use HK is the cheapest option. Having said that, if durability is your main concern go for Optipower. They are used at the RC Hotel & they last a season or more of being recharged 4-5 times a day, 7 days a week. They do a 1450mah 2s receiver pack for about £14. Edited By John Lee on 04/09/2017 22:16:32
