Nigel R

Surpass, if you need a new one. But, What's wrong with the existing fl70?

Bandages work. Braces work. One or other might be easier for any given wing. Horses for courses.

Quite. Lipos are a lot cheaper than a car, or a garage, or a house, etc.

Lithium cells burn pretty darn good. Deformation / puffing indicates some gas has been released at some point. Might be low quality manufacture, might be damage. The batteries I have dealings with in professional capacity are lithium and the end user / manufacturer has zero tolerance for any has discharge or deformation. Make of that what you will.

Surely you mean Mon Dieu, non?

Yes, highest risk is when charging and immediately after. (Or when being abused via discharge)

Some lessons are hard learnt.

They're really good dBs though.

Stick with Eneloops, they are rated at a good few amps before any voltage drop occurs, plenty man enough for a five servo 10cc glow model. YMMV, of course. Let us know how it works out if you do. I've not used A123 cells.

Electric is a way forward. So are jet turbines. Glow engines are a thing to play with in and of themselves. Glow fuel price is reasonably commensurate with inflation, even since years and years ago. You don't have to buy the fanciest of fancy fuels for a sport engine. I disagree that they are more faff to look after... Finish flying - drain tank, wipe down, done. Electric means more faff at home - discharging, balancing, charging, etc etc.

I'm also flying 40 and 60 size IC. RX gets a battery. Retracts go on their own battery. I use 4.8V eneloop nimh on absolutely everything. No regulators required. Super simple.

Seconded on RCJapan... no connection just happy customer. (+also, for OS spare parts.)

Back in the day these cheap regulated buck converter ICs were just not available - they're miles better than a dropper resistor or a basic PWM chopper circuit. In 2025 they are both cheap and easy and have a nice display to let you know what is going on. As a "better mousetrap" I have seen circuits that measure the plug temperature (which is the absolute ideal for a glow plug) - and moderate a PWM driver accordingly - but putting those together from discrete components is time consuming and way too expensive for a power panel... A good project for an enthusiastic amateur, maybe.

As you state, some low, some high, some medium risk. Potentially they make more profit on the higher risk customers, I guess. One way to guarantee the same profit from the low risk customers, is to give them a high risk quote. If the customer chooses to pay it, more fool them, buyer beware, etc.

I thought this was either coming into law or already in force, that a refurb part had to be offered? It's been a legal thing in the states for years... I watched a programme a year or two back about the very large UK breakers that run advanced logistic/warehouse setups to supply low mileage OEM parts from salvage, the programme was talking about reasons behind it (i.e. lowering cost on insurance repairs). That aside, I also had an renewal quote (around three weeks ago?) of double last years premium. I checked one of the online comparison sites, found quotes 20% lower than last years premium, gave that number to current insurer, who "surprisingly" found that they could more than halve their quote and match what I found when I "compared the market". Chancers, the lot of them.

Macs made quiet pipes like that. Four baffles, I think. They work more or less as well as the flat baffle type. I suspect the first baffle in the pipe does the bulk of the work, as it were, the rest simply work as additional silencing chambers. Nice PR work by Avicraft 😄

I feel duty bound to mention the Super 60 at this point - effectively a 4 channel Junior with all the necessary mods to suit the change/update. https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=552

Build looks good, seems like it is really quick to get together. Looks like wings are plug on jobs? Are the fuse sides liteply? I could use a new funfly in the hangar... Maybe an SC/ASP .36 for power, now they're back in production?

Hopefully I'm in the majority here: Annual club/BMFA/CAA bill arrived, I paid it.

Neat way to get a couple of extra chambers into the standard silencer. Large, tiny, medium and small, in that order. I suspect the restrictions have to start small and increase as has passes, to keep the pressure highest near the engine. I have a similar looking silencer for a 10cc o.s. and it is very effective.

Current switched through a motor which is inductive in nature, leads to what exactly, when the switch is closed/opened? Sparking. I am not going to argue with you, as you are just plain wrong. Ford Fiesta, about 20 years ago, needed an occasional whack with the hammer to free up. Car wasn't worth sorting it properly. I guess that doesn't count as it's not within the last 10 years?

I would very much consider finding another house, apologies if that comes across as sledgehammer for the nut. Are you renting or owning? If you own it then I agree with C8, insulation is everything.

Car starters use a different mechanism (solenoid) from either of the above situations, and they absolutely can weld up although it is less likely.

Unless the current is melting the contacts then I would be fairly sure the wear is from arcing, plus Paul is switching a coil not a motor, different strokes. 100nF or 1uF ought to do for a relay coil. Does depend in the relay though. Just looking for something to damp things down until the Diode takes over and clamps. Diode, nothing fancy, 1n4007 maybe, a standard rectifier type. Put both next to the switch.

The notes really mean "build the starboard upside down" - just as you did the port. You don't want two identical port panels! as Andy notes, dose it with WD40 and reverse the plan.