Capt Kremen
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Everything posted by Capt Kremen
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I had struggled for years with various devices covered in this pseudo rubber. Tried most alcohol and similar solvents to no avail. Then, on a 'Pure' portable internet radio that had become horrible to touch, put some 'Rainex' rain repellent treatment ... Ureka! With a little bit of elbow grease too, ALL the gooey, sticky 'rubber' coating came off. Don't know what is in 'Rainex' but it works where other solvents, (alcohol, acetone, meths, turps etc.) barely if it all, touch it.
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Kamco Kadet
Capt Kremen replied to Keith Evans 3's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Keith afraid can't answer your specific question but I seem to recall someone a year (or three!) ago had the rights to Kamco and was preparing to (CNC?) cut a few of the Kamco designs as updated kits. Anyone know what happened to that enterprise? As I recall the 'Kavalier', (low-winger) and 'Kloudrider' (glider) were mentioned as well as the 'Kadet'. Laser cut rib sets are, or have been, available too. -
Tongue-in-cheek ... Shouldn't he pay YOU for taking it off his hands? Seriously ... When did your friend last fly it? It requires a fair bit of TLC judging by the pics to get it flying. Surely as a friend he would be glad to see it go to a new home where it would be appreciated etc. etc. And of course it frees up valuable space in his 'toy cupboard' for something new perhaps(?) As a 'Mentor' owner myself, it is a nice relaxing model to fly. Why did MPX drop it from their line I wonder(?) It is a far superior 'foamie' to much that has been (and gone!) from those mail order hobby warehouses. Meanwhile start filling the bath tub with hot water to get the dents out .... enjoy! Edited By Capt Kremen on 20/08/2020 14:55:46
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Which would you choose and why?
Capt Kremen replied to Steve Colman's topic in Sport, Aerobatic and 3D kits
Paved runway or grass? Trikes, (especially typical 'thin/weak'n'wobbly ARTF u/c ones), fair better on paved or smooth surfaces. If your field has short grass, ground is hard, then trikes can work with a little care. Having said that, even taildragger u/c wire assemblies, as supplied in many (not all), kits can be 'wobbly' and bend in anything but the lightest arrival. My choice as you're asking - The Sebart. -
Anyone know how many of our typical LiPo, (far east produced), manufacturers there actually are? Is it a case of only 2 or 3 producers and they 'badge' the packs to the distributor requirements? Maybe they grade check the IR and the best matching are the most expensive and less so the cheaper line but ALL from the same production run and the same supposed spec perhaps(?) Personal experience after using most available brands and dealers - Hobby King All their types including Graphene, Overlander, 4-Max, Flightpower etc. etc., had good and bad regardless of cost. Often think it is down to the batch available at the time of purchase. Have bought say brand 'A', which proved acceptable, come to purchase another couple of identical packs from the same vendor and they've not been the same. Buy another same stated spec from brand 'B' and then they've been OK. Add factors such as one retailer can buy in 500 of a certain spec and size whilst another retailer 5,000 of identical and the unit cost for a pack is probably going to be different. Edited By Capt Kremen on 23/07/2020 16:12:14
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Yes the digital edition can be viewed on a PC but cannot (easily) be printed and of course no plans (until recently, now a few available to download due the current circumstances).
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Try 'First Steps Rubber Bands' they do a range of good quality bands. (Much cheaper and better value than model shops and high street stationers too!)
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Another plus for Hangarone Kits. Superb laser cutting, beautiful balsa and clear cad plans. My kit is Phil Kraft's 'Kwick Fli III'
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Robin Found the instruction manual. (PM me and I can send you a copy). From the instructions: The C of G is stated at 50mm (2 inch) from the leading edge. Control Throws: Rudder 17mm / Elevator 14mm / Aileron 11mm - All Each Way
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Hi Robin, I have an unflown example too. [After acquiring it, I sadly reckon and doubt it's flight characteristics will be anything like the full-size ;-( ] Will see if I can find the instruction manual and see what that says re C of G.
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Anyone on the forum build the Sept 1997 'Radio Control Scale Aircraft' free 50" span, scale light aircraft plan of a 'Europa' by Ken Sheppard? If so, how was it?, Fly well?, What power/motor used?, Electric anyone? Reason a good flying club friend of mine used to own a full-size and is tempted to build an electric powered version, slightly larger, circa 64" span which is approx 1/5th scale. (Not aware of any other plans of this plane). In the original magazine article, Ken Sheppard suggests he would write a follow up article regarding fitting a, (current for the era), 'SPEED600' geared brushed electric, running on 7 cell (NiCad/NiMH?) pack. Did Ken ever do this and/or a motor glider conversion following a prang at Old Warden, necessitating a nose rebuild? Any other thoughts or comments on the potential success or otherwise of this scale subject build welcome. Many thanks.
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Bud Morgan - Castle Arcade Cardiff Bud, who had only one arm, would lovingly and perfectly pack your precious pocket money kit in a sheet of pristine brown paper. Together in the shop, his extremely polite assistant Chris(?) Williams supplied every manner of model goody. Down the road (a stretch!), in Swansea, there was a good model shop in one of their arcades too.
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Adding Span To A Low Aspect Wing
Capt Kremen replied to Capt Kremen's topic in All Things Model Flying
Thanks Phil. Yes, it is a constant chord, no sweep. The potential effect(s) you suggest are just what I seek, i.e. a little slower landing, a little 'tamer' overall. -
One for the aerodynamicists among us ... I have a low aspect ratio sport model, flies well but I fancy trying a lower wing loading. Current Main Wing Span is 50 inches with a Chord of 11 inches. It has a 20 inch Span Conventional Tailplane, with an average chord of 6 inches. What if ... I add say another 3 rib bays to each tip, making the new main wing span approx 70 inches? (The wing is a constant chord, tailplane a small taper). Reading full-size accounts suggest keeping tailplanes as small as possible due drag however they (e.g. airliners), have very smart electronics to keep things sweet trim wise. Without such aid, what, (if any other), changes might be made or just go ahead, increase the span and keep the tailplane as is? Adjust the C of G?
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The problem with picking a servo, (or any piece of model equipment, radio, motor, esc etc.), from a lesser known brand is often future continuity. The likes of Futaba and HiTec will probably still be around. (Though nothing is certain these days alas!). Say you choose a Hitec 422 servo this year and you don't need another set of servo until next or perhaps a replacement gear set, the HiTec 422 will likely still be available. The only caveat may be changes in specification / materials and or variations between batches. Like most model goods, there are probably only a few actual manufacturers but a lot of badges applied to the same product!
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After years of using the readily available APC 'E' props, I re-discovered Aeronaut fixed props. (I had previously often used their folding props on E-gliders). Whilst such measurements as can be made with a watt meter and tacho, give a guide, I find actual performance in flight use more meaningful. Re-propping several different models from APC E prop to Aeronaut 'Black' of the same size and pitch has been interesting. My findings, born out by club mates comments, they are quieter. Throttle settings for like-for-like performance are slightly less giving a little extra flight duration. They balance very well, even the hubs are not far out which often seems an issue with APC E prop.
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Preface - I am aware this will vary according to which part of the UK folk reside and fly in. Based in Southern England, our club flying site, operating in the countryside, some distance from any dwellings has now re-opened for flying. We are taking the recommended precautions of social distancing, parking cars further apart, use of sprays, gels, gloves and not handling other persons property. So, how is your clubs and instructors dealing with trainees i.e, complete novices/new comers and all those still requiring to use a buddy box? The majority of our club members, and seemingly similar in many if not most clubs, are 60+ years of age and very many 70+, therefore in the considered higher risk category. Unless I've missed it, BMFA have offered little if any guidance on recommended flying site practices and procedures. Do you put a, hopefully, temporary halt to all training? Train using only 'wireless' buddy box connections or longer conventional wire leads, all to keep 2 metres person to person distance? Any changes to numbers on the flight line at any one time? (We've said only 2 max, but in practice only 1 is ever in the air at any one time). With collective best practice, let's hope we can keep flying safely whilst attending our flying sites.
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7 days - 2 of which were in this country according to tracking.
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