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Chris Walby

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Everything posted by Chris Walby

  1. I might be wrong but as a novice the MB appeals to me for the exact reason that it is a MB! I will not be the only person in a shed trying to work out what the designer intended to be done with some part or other and plaguing my long suffering club mates with questions! There are a lot of very experience builders and pilots out here, but people new to the sport tend to come in via the foam ARTF route with most sticking with planes that are cheaper to buy than to obtain the wood! The point is that it is built by yourself. I agree with CB, is that not the whole point of the MB... It might not be the easiest to build but some people will scratch build, some will buy the laser cut kits and if anyone gets stuck there is a forum with advice to help out.
  2. I have some old (3S) + new ones (4S) and they seem to be okay. The puffing of my lipos (E-Flight, Dynamic & Overlander) seem to be directly related to how hard I run them (close to their C rating) and not manufacture dependent. The only ones that don't seen to puff are 4-Max (Purple power) lipo's and they do seem more punchy performance, but then again they tend to have higher C ratings. Depends on what you want out of your lipo.....pay your money and take your choice, but I don't think you will get something for nothing
  3. Being new, when is a decision made about the 2017 mass build model? And is there a combined purchase power or does everyone do there own thing?
  4. Martin - Only date I have is 18June2016, not sure if that's correct though. My point is that if you landed your plane in the middle of a town it would be massive negative press and everyone on your back, but if its a Balloon with a load of LPG cylinders attached to the basket with fee paying passengers, you get the police & fire fighters to help pack it up and its a minor press article! Do they make RC Balloons?
  5. How about this! Landing/crashing in the middle of Stevenage town centre, next to the East Coast main line and a dual carriage way...just down from the police station. Clear and blatant disregard of the ANO?
  6. IMHO advice as follows: Fly something you are not to fussed if it meets a sticky end. You can throw caution to the wind/have more fun White LED's tend to be very bright compared to others I have used (Blue & Green) so don't use as many Plan where you are going to put the LED's...nothing more exciting that finding that you have caused a viewing angle where none of the LED's are visible... Foam, Depron, EPP models are good Don't use a 2S battery pack...at fully throttle the LED's can go out....How do I know!
  7. I think it may be the ESC, they don't like stalled motor shafts even at low speed settings. I had a field landing/crash and didn't go to throttle off as it stopped against the ground (prop strike) and the only damage was a u/s ESC! If you have a meter, measure between the motor leads (the resistance should be very close to each other). If you don't have a meter, then either substitute a spare motor or ESC in place and try it (remember not to run the motor for more than a couple of seconds off load)
  8. I use the balance lead on the Lipo, so 3S is about 12V so nice and bright. If you are using more that 3S just sue the 3S leads from the balance plug. Don't need a switch, just don't plug the balance lead in if you don't want the LED's + its all separate from the RX so little risk of a wiring/LED fault causing a loss of control What battery are you using for the plane?
  9. Half a sheet of Depron, some old servos, spare RX and bring on the darkness! All on 3S 800 so ESC on the power leads and LED's on the balance lead. Photo once I have worked out how to do it!
  10. Oh think yourself lucky.....some take your money and wait until they have a large enough order to place...could been weeks sometimes as they say its been ordered and they are waiting on delivery.... I have found use a LMS, call or email or use a supplier show a "real" stock levels. I then just use them as I end up wasting more time than money saved IMHO. I think its called "Just in time" method = take the punters money and deliver when it comes in.
  11. Being newish to the hobby/sport con someone explain why there does not seem to be many models if any suited or designed for windy conditions. Now I have a Yeti (and after some very helpful assistance from George at 4-Max) I can fly in almost anything...but no one else turns up to fly. Its low cost and very resilient if it meets the ground being an electric delta & pusher, but with only elevrons its not a massive challenge in the stick wiggling department! With the advent of some very clever technology like giro's, stability control and that is not even close to what the multi-rotor companies are doing why do we seem to have very little choice? Should I take up ridge soaring?
  12. Hi, I am thinking of building a quick model (not 3D!) based around a SU 37 shape with either a pull or pusher depending where the C of G ends up from Depron So for fast flying what's the minimum in need in control surfaces to get it to do most of the usual moves. Canards with one of two servos as elevators or elevrons Rear elevators or use these as elevrons Rudder? Wing TE Ailerons?     Edited By Chris Walby on 02/11/2016 14:08:17
  13. Tom, Sorry to hear about the diabetes, but it might be worth searching out the motor cycle web sites as some do all kinds of heated under layers and most likely 12V rated, so one Lipo pack in the plane and the other heating your feet!
  14. If you really want to be sure, either with the prop off or make sure you are behind it, turn the TX on, then battery in the plane and on. Let it bind and settle down. With the stabilisation switched on (if your can turn it off/on) hold the plane and yaw it right you should notice the rudder moves in the opposite direction to counter you movement. Then nose the plane down and you should see the RX put in up elevator and lastly roll it one way and again the RX should drive the ailerons to correct your movement. I have a AR636 and have been playing around with the different settings so like to have the option of turning off the stabilisation inflight in case I have overdone something. Lastly if I remember rightly the AS3X needs a few seconds (5 ish) of straight and level flight to sort its self out, it does this once the throttle is up by 40%. PS... Make sure the plane is well mechanically trimmed up as the AS3X does not like massive levels of TX trim put in. Hope that helps
  15. There will be better answers than mine as I don't know the size/weight, but I would start with measuring the existing CofG and replace parts like for like based on weight. Weight the existing battery, speed controller and motor and take a note of the prop size. Then aim to replace like for like within reason! If the new kit is too light I would suspect you will be well under powered, equally not much point having a ballistic rocket that has loads of lead to get the CofG and glides like a brick! From a review on the web Wingspan 32.5 inches Fuselage 31.2 inches Weight 17 ounces Prop stock Motor BL400 Battery 11.1v 2100mAh Watts 178 Amps 20
  16. Following the build very closely and it looks great.....dumb question? What is the brown paper method?
  17. If you have the Zagi 400 already not an option, however 4-Max do their own version called the Yeti with an optional electric pack and George was very helpful regarding set up. I got mine to fly when the conditions are not suitable to fly anything else or I am not prepared to damage a balsa ARTF ! Great fun and probably almost indestructible as its foam & packing tape! Will fly very slow all the way up too quite quick and you can make it as visible as you want (good for those winter grey skies)! Only down side is that it has no rudder so no stick practice there, but goes in the car so set up time is minimal (just safety check and fly!).
  18. ....so where does it return to.. the flight line where it mows me over (I'll have enough trouble flying the Vulcan as it is!) or the pits via the fence....How about I retrieve the dolly and someone with greater experience with maiden flights has the sticks... Any takers (when are you next up at the field?)
  19. Steve, I have a Yeti delta wing which looks much the same as you FX-61 in size/power/weight and all I do with that is hand launch it. I think a dolly will be more trouble than its worth to be honest I was advised with two techniques for launching firstly the hold the centre and above head throw with motor off, as it glides toward the ground power up and a bit of up elevator or discus style (hold it by the end of the wing with wing in front or your body at about 45 degrees. Then throw into wind away from yourself. I prefer the second technique as I put throttle hold on, give it full throttle and throw it with my left hand (I am right handed) which leaves my right hand holding the TX with my thumb on the elevator/aileron stick and my second finger on the throttle hold switch (on my TX its mix/hold switch is top right). So throttle hold, throttle to full power, ready to throw, take throttle hold off and once its up to full speed, throw firmly into wind (with right thumb of TX stick) and away it should go! The only other thing to mention is the harder I throw mine the worse the launch (within reason) because what I tend to do is introduce rotation into the throw. The Yeti has no rudder or centre stab so if I introduce yaw I only have elevrons to correct it with.
  20. I have read the article with interest, not sure I am prepared to stretch out a bungee with 30kg of pull (that is a lot of stored energy!) and let go of a delta wing model for its maiden with just elevrons and flaps....Might need two bin liners for that! Back to the dolly I think
  21. Thanks to those that have posted and after a bit of web searching a design is being formulated, Two front wheels, with one trailing (possibly steering, but will try it without first), it will be quite wide for stability and to miss the pusher props which are 12 inch apart compared to the 6 ft wingspan.
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